Bolt In Rear Air Bags

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Sep 9, 2007
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Vegas Baby !
I have been looking around for a rear air bag kit that I could install without welding on brackets to my frame as others have done on IH8MUD on their ‘60’s. I did some web searching and found that Boss Air Suspension out of Australia makes a kit for Toyotas with leaf springs.

I ordered the LOADASSIST01 from Mark at PDR DIESEL and they arrived in about 3 weeks. The cost was $349.00 plus the ride.

The install is very simple. Support the vehicle on jack stands and remove the tires for access. You take out the bump stops and the top bracket mounts right in place. I opted to tap in a 3/8 x 22 grade 8 bolt in place of smaller bolts that held the bump stops in. I used a 90’ angle drill as a normal drill would have clearance problems with the axle/brake drum assy getting in the way.

I then bolted the air bag to bottom bracket, loosened the bottom axle hangers and placed the bottom bracket on top of the axle. I them retightened the axle hangers and assembled the bag to the top bracket. I then put some header - wrap insulation around the tail pipe as it was too close to the airbag and the airbag lines. I ran the air lines and mad a bracket that would keep the schrader valves out of the way yet accessible for filling the bags.

I still need to do some off road testing to look for any flex limitations. I’ll keep you posted. It is nice to be able to adjust the suspension when I am loaded up to go prospecting.


Enjoy


Mark :beer:


LOADASSIST01 For Landcuiser Leaf Springs



Boss Air Suspension North America
#209 6333 148TH STREET, SURREY BC CANADA
604.816.5008
Boss Suspension PTY


PDR DIESEL
#102 18910 94 AVE, SURREY BC V4N 4X5
Phone: 1.604.888.4159
PDR Diesel Performance
Talk to Mark

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Wow.......... Thats as cool as my air ride suspension on my Land Rover. How does the rig ride when aired up?
 
What are the air requirements for this set-up? I'm wondering if I could run it off my ARB compressor.
 
You probably could use your ARB but it may take a bit to fill, verses hitting the station for a quick shot or even on board air may be easier. Most of the aftermarket air rides come with a chuck or you can run a direct line. My rover works off an onboard compresser
 
You probably could use your ARB but it may take a bit to fill, verses hitting the station for a quick shot or even on board air may be easier. Most of the aftermarket air rides come with a chuck or you can run a direct line. My rover works off an onboard compresser

I presume the idea is that you adjust the bag pressure for load/terrain variation. Am I wrong? If that's the case, you'd want to be able to do it in the field.
 
I presume the idea is that you adjust the bag pressure for load/terrain variation. Am I wrong? If that's the case, you'd want to be able to do it in the field.

Of course!!!! Thats why the onboard air would be great! The Arb would work....it would just take a few to fill!

I like the idea of running the arb into a larger working tank then run off the secondary tank.
i.e. front tube bumper or air tank.
 
I like the idea of running the arb into a larger working tank then run off the secondary tank.
i.e. front tube bumper or air tank.

I'm with ya there. I've long been thinking about using a bumper for an air tank.
 
The way these bags work is to fill them to max pressure, then load the vehicle with everything you need, including trailers etc if towing, and then deflate them until you reach the desired height/stance.

Really nice product and very tough.
 
Pics or inflated and deflated? Any difference in height?

-Carl
 
these are fine for towing or hauling loads but i dont recommend them for off road, i know for a fact on my truck that droop would rip the bags in half
 
I'm with ya there. I've long been thinking about using a bumper for an air tank.

The 'build up for jesus' thread has done that exact thing with their rear bumper.

-Carl
 
I have the same setup on my rig - just have the valves in the rear bumper for easy inflation / deflation .
Been there for three years - no problems . I have had them at full droop and they stretch well but I do think they limit articulation slightly .

I intend fitting a solinoid valve soon to connect the two air lines if needed . If the bags are connected the air will flow between them to allow better articulation . For sealed surface it is better if they are isolated .
 
I am not as concerned about full droop at this point as much as I am load carrying when I load up my prospecting gear. These things will stretch quite a bit and when I get some time I will try to put thises things trough a flex test.

As far as lift goes, I can lift the back about 3" if I wanted too, but the point is that I am using them for load assist leveling.


Cheers

Mark
 
those would help some yes, but he is also running different air springs then the ones above in this thread.
the ones in this thread look to be some firestone bags which only have a few inches of total lift from fully compressed. which by design is how those are produced anyway (not just the firestone brand)

here is a bagged truck i used to own for a short little while.
053-1.jpg


here it is laid fully out and bags compressed on top of one another in the rear, no more additional drop is available 1.) cause it is laying on the ground 2.) cause the bags have now become the stopping point
067.jpg


this one shows full lift out back and as you can see there isnt much travel at all, this is with the rear bags aired all the way up at 150psi which is intolerable for driving. (which why in this application a cantilever setup is amazing)
074.jpg


shot of rear bags fully inflated
072.jpg


now i know these pics arnt of a 60 and the bags are being used as the only springs on the truck and not as helpers, but the bag over axle this truck had is the same and shows how little travel is available from these things from 0psi to 150psi. and looking at the above pics there is only maybe an inch MAYBE 2 but prolly less of droop before it starts pullin on that bag because it looks to be at or near max height already, now they will usually handle a good bit of stress and can support the weight of an axle (well in an s-10 anyways) for a little bit, but it is hard on them and is not recommended as i have seen many rip from just that, much less a much heavier land cruiser axle doin it over and over again wih a much heavier truck forcing it to articulate and pull on the bag.
 
awesome

that looks great Mark,you did an awesome job.

John:D
 
Easy to solve the over-extension concern, make one mount work like the picture and leave the other mount fixed to the frame or the axle housing. They can be oriented any way that works the best. Ideally the cone would never completely leave the tube, but with careful set-up that may not be important.
assem2.webp
 
Having a detachable suspension component is never a good idea IMHO.
 

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