Body lift - pros & cons

[Mike G.]

I am thinking of installing a 1" body lift on my 74 fj40 so I can gain a bit more clearance for my tires. I was just curious about other opinions regarding body lifts - good, bad, installation tips...

 

[LC_Hamma]

Can't really think of a bad reason why not to install one except linkage or brake/ clutch line extensions. Why stop at 1"? I did 1 3/4" on mine for better:
- routing of exhaust
- welding around top of frame
- what you said, wheel travel
- you have *better bracing angles when tying cantilevered members like rockers
- your tranny/ tcase becomes more accessible if you need to wrench in tight spots like tightening the driveshaft bolts on the front tcase output.

 

[bustanutley]

Cons

raised COG
more leverage applied to mounts

i'm a big fan of cutting the body to fit bigger tires, that is just one opinion though.

 

[JRFJ4-]

I just don't like body lifts. I don't like the way they look. 1" will look okay.

Especially on newer domestic trucks. The bed is so much higher than the bumper. yuck.


J.R.

 

[bandy rooster]

a body lift is ok, i don't really call it a real lift though...

if your using a body lift as your lift then your a fruit cake but if your just doing it for an 1" and to gain some tire clearence i think your fine.

 

[woody]

agreed with all of the above...it's very difficult to get a body lift to look decent once you go over 1"...and the added leverage on the mounting bolts isn't the best.

should be easy to deal with steering too, much over 1" gets into bind issues with the stock frame-mounted steering box.

 

[Poser]

Oh I don't know....


Three inch in these trucks....solid spacers and 1/2" grade 8 NF bolts and metal locking nuts...the body does not move.

Seem to do ok....

 

[snailwagon]

I have a 1" on my 55 just for clearance issues. Raises COG without increasing suspension travel is the biggest con. To keep my shroud aligned with the fan and the radiator, I dropped my radiator 1". Now I cannot use the toyota tool for hand cranking, big con.

 

[Poser]

Now I cannot use the toyota tool for hand cranking, big con.

because you did that often for what reason?

 

[Isotel]

because it makes you feel like your driving a Model T!!

I just Put a 3" on a 94 Toy Pickup.. He did it to give him some room till he can afford a SAS.. Looks Like Crap IMO, but he can Put some 33's on it..

1" Should be fine!.. if you rework your tub, make the Rear Sill 1" taller, then put somthing under the front Bib and it will look normal!

 

[Mike G.]

Thanks for the replys. My rig has a 4" sua lift, but it just dosn't seem like enough for 33's when articulated. So, the extra 1" body lift may be the answer.
I have another question: Since my body mounts are worn out or non-existant, I want to replace them with some new poly mounts. Should the body spacers be used with the new poly mounts - or just spacers alone? If you do use both, would this be the correct installation sequence: frame < 1" lift puck < poly mount < body?
Also, one more question: to save some money, will hockey pucks work on a 74, or should I stick to a square type block?
Thanks again for your help and advice.

 

[lone gunman]

i have a 2 in. body lift and it was easy to do and cheap. i placed the lift blocks on the frame and then the new poly mounts on top of the blocks. the new body mount kit will come with SAE bolts (US thread size) so getting longer bolts is no problem. did you try a search i have talked about it before. main thing is to losen all body mounts first and then lift one side at a time. all the lines will flex enough for the lift (brakes etc.) only problem may be as woody said the factory steering, i have saginaw. you will have to drill new holes in fender suports to mount to frame. i also extended my shifters 2 inches. you can get blocks any size and hieght at www.4wheelparts.com look in the body lift section and then look for replacement blocks you can get what ever you need. i bought 8 2in. high full size blocks and 4 2in. high mini blocks (for the rear) worked great. and i used 2x4 in. steel for the lift in the front under the bib and under the steps (running boards) until i do rock sliders this will have to work. and in the rear i used a peice of 2 in.angle iron to hide the gap the lift created. good luck! and hope this helps.

 

[lone gunman]

couple more pics

 

[bandy rooster]

thanks for the info lone gunman.. where do you get those pucks from?


ps - nice new shiny driveshaft.

 

[snailwagon]

because you did that often for what reason?

Just a little sarcasm on my part. Tried it once and bent the tool.

Roger at 4crawler.com also makes some very nice pucks from HDPE or HDPP. He does the truck tech for Toyota Trails, so you know your $ goes to a cruiserhead.

 

[andrewfarmer]

Did 35mm on mine.

Cons - had to remount the bottom of the steering column (std steering). Had to extend the wires to the oil pressure sender and temp sender.

Pros - I can remove the gearbox without taking out the tranny hump
Clearance for exhaust over chassis rail
Tyres dont rub. (but then I got bigger tyres...)

 

[bustanutley]

Thanks for the replys. My rig has a 4" sua lift, but it just dosn't seem like enough for 33's when articulated.

4" not tall enough for 33!?

I ran 35 ssr's on springs that were sagged out to be maybe 1" over. My buddy runs 37s on his saggy 4" sua. Rubbing a little isn't the end of the world, your truck is going to look silly if it is any taller without more tire under it.

 

[metalonmetal]

i got 35s on my 4" sua lift with a little fender trimming, i think if i put 1" spacers under the body i'd have to get myself some new tires.

 

[spike6901]

Same here, 4" sua w/ 35's. I put some flairs on the rear and cut back the wells and have not rubbed yet. But then I have SJ springs that don't flex all that well.

 

[camcruiser13]

sounds like its time for soa