Thanks to @medtro i have a nice oem rad to install. I just got my Aisin blue hub fan clutch in. I know the mod is worth it. But was thinking of just installing the the blue hub as is?? Only issue besides my leak I have is at idle sometimes a/c starts sucking or a hour of idle a/c stops working. Assuming fan can’t pull enough heat out. But that’s where the sun electric fan comes into play right?
Blue hub clutch (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 06reg4x4
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What hub do you have in it now? Sounds like it might be overheating currently, as sitting at idle is reaching 227F - at which point the A/C shuts down automagically.
I replaced my radiator a few summers back with TYC1918 and the blue hub that was several years old, and its been fine since. The blue hub is the upgraded hub over stock, and while replacing higher viscosity silicone oil (*and retiming of the port position) definitely helps to engage the fan sooner, and pull more air - I think it works fine without as long as everything else is up to par. Plus, it is a bit quieter, as you're swapping increased noise at idle for increased fan operation.
Honestly, with as easy as it is to change the hub and fan assembly - being careful not to wreck the backside of the radiator fins - I would install your blue hub and monitor it. You could always pull it out later and have someone mod your blue hub if you decided you wanted more airflow.
I replaced my radiator a few summers back with TYC1918 and the blue hub that was several years old, and its been fine since. The blue hub is the upgraded hub over stock, and while replacing higher viscosity silicone oil (*and retiming of the port position) definitely helps to engage the fan sooner, and pull more air - I think it works fine without as long as everything else is up to par. Plus, it is a bit quieter, as you're swapping increased noise at idle for increased fan operation.
Honestly, with as easy as it is to change the hub and fan assembly - being careful not to wreck the backside of the radiator fins - I would install your blue hub and monitor it. You could always pull it out later and have someone mod your blue hub if you decided you wanted more airflow.
- Thread starter
- #3
That’s pretty much my thought process. The needle never moves. But I’ve read that you can’t fully trust the oem gauge. It has the seemily oem or parts store replacement in there not a blue hub. So agreed this out the box should be upgrade for me.
What he said 
.
Also, here's a writeup on radiator stuff worth reading: Temps in AZ for an 80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/temps-in-az-for-an-80.1256275/
.Also, here's a writeup on radiator stuff worth reading: Temps in AZ for an 80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/temps-in-az-for-an-80.1256275/
It takes 30-60mins to set the blue hub up and change the fluid out. I say do it right the first time.
On the ac shutting off, does it start working again after you start driving? Or does the truck have to be shut down and cool for several hours before it will work again?
If you are getting to the temp where the ac shuts off due to over temp, your temp gauge will be about half way between normal and max. It takes forever to move, but when it does it moves fast.
On the ac shutting off, does it start working again after you start driving? Or does the truck have to be shut down and cool for several hours before it will work again?
If you are getting to the temp where the ac shuts off due to over temp, your temp gauge will be about half way between normal and max. It takes forever to move, but when it does it moves fast.
Given your comment above, a modified Blue Hub might help, along with an additional electric fan pushing from the front which can be turned on when napping. Sitting at idle for extended periods in AZ heat ((esp. sitting in full sun) usually doesn't turn out like people expect...
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
I have said it before and I will say it again, if all you ever do is what @LongDuck says to do, you will be in a good spot
and if @medtro gives you access to his treasure trove of parts... then you are golden.That said, I also second the hub mod, even if all you do is the fluid swap. I went all the way up to 30k CST and it works really good.
Hobby Action in Chandler has all the different fluid weights. I'll be there most of the day racing (it's club racing day) if you want come say hi. I'll me running 2,000,000 CST in my RC car center differential
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- #10
You know a guy named Greg with a pink 86 rc drifter?I have said it before and I will say it again, if all you ever do is what @LongDuck says to do, you will be in a good spot
That said, I also second the hub mod, even if all you do is the fluid swap. I went all the way up to 30k CST and it works really good.
Hobby Action in Chandler has all the different fluid weights. I'll be there most of the day racing (it's club racing day) if you want come say hi. I'll me running 2,000,000 CST in my RC car center differential
- Thread starter
- #11
Yea so part of me wants to install as is. Cause I want engine stuff etc to be simple and closer to oem.
And then if needed try out the aux fan which I think will make the most difference for me.
But then it wouldn’t hurt to put the thicker fluid in.
And then if needed try out the aux fan which I think will make the most difference for me.
But then it wouldn’t hurt to put the thicker fluid in.
I don't have any magic solution, I just don't like the thought of overheating, esp. my recent Mr. T short block delivered straight from Japan.
Throw your Blue Hub in there and see how it goes. Your daily parking lot nap situation is a little out of my personal heat tolerance zone, but only you can decide. As stated, if everything else is good (thermostat, fresh Toyota red, radiator, etc.), it should idle all day running A/C and never get to 227F where the cutoff occurs.
Throw your Blue Hub in there and see how it goes. Your daily parking lot nap situation is a little out of my personal heat tolerance zone, but only you can decide. As stated, if everything else is good (thermostat, fresh Toyota red, radiator, etc.), it should idle all day running A/C and never get to 227F where the cutoff occurs.
If the ac is not working but the temp gauge is where it should be, its most likely you expansion valve failing. I had the same issue 9 or so years ago when I went through my 80's ac system. The ac cutout will go away after temp returns to normal, a failing expansion valve wont start working until it sits for a while.
If you sit at idle running the AC often, the best thing you can do is install an OEM hand throttle and set the rpm to about 1300. The truck will stay cooler and the AC will stay ice cold.
For reference, the aisin blue hub has 3,000 in it. I put 15000 in one of mine and it was not enough when I lived in phoenix. For what you are doing, I would not put the blue hub on unless you put 30,000 in it and adjust the thermostat.
If you sit at idle running the AC often, the best thing you can do is install an OEM hand throttle and set the rpm to about 1300. The truck will stay cooler and the AC will stay ice cold.
For reference, the aisin blue hub has 3,000 in it. I put 15000 in one of mine and it was not enough when I lived in phoenix. For what you are doing, I would not put the blue hub on unless you put 30,000 in it and adjust the thermostat.
FWIW, when my rad needed replacement and the A/C would shut down, the temp gauge was still right in the middle of the range. Every truck is different.
The one day I had my ac shut off (towing a travel trailer sitting in traffic on new river road @121f because i17 was closed for a brush fire) the temp gauge was heading for the moon by the time the ac kicked off. It would drop just as fast. The definitely are all different, and you can’t assume the oem temp gauge means anything unfortunately. When mine was just under red, that was 235f. It didn’t start moving at all until about 225.
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- #16
Reasons for a scan gauge. Lol
But I can’t do anything hint at the moment new baby is here. “Jackson” my newest little wheeler. But for simplicity I’m a see how it does as is and try and get a 12” electric setup for aux cooling.
But I can’t do anything hint at the moment new baby is here. “Jackson” my newest little wheeler. But for simplicity I’m a see how it does as is and try and get a 12” electric setup for aux cooling.
Another data point for 1993 FZJ80, with R12 AC system from the factory.
Interesting. After almost 900 miles towing a boat last week and a CGVW of around 11,000 lbs I saw some interesting stuff on my "dual gauges"
To begin with, I suspect that my 2-year-old OEM fan clutch is shot...
The original gauge hits the "center" at about 140 degrees on my freshly added Isspro and remains there until about 215-218 degrees on the isspro, then it will start to "hike up" a bit. at about 220-223 degrees it reads about 3/4's of the way up. I did not try to push it to get 226 on the Isspro to see if the compressor would cut out. I ran warm pulling the long grades and I did not hear the fan pulling so that is why I suspect the clutch. On the down-hill I would drop as low as 170-175 (I run a 160 thermostat).
My observations are consistant with the OEM gauge being "normal" from about 140 to 215...............One would think a 75 degree swing would merit a but more than that, no?
I was packing a bit of a load tho:
congratulations, particularly to your wife
the fluid change really isn't difficult - we run 25000, I know that Richard runs even higher viscosity
the whole auxiliary fan deal doesn't work all that well - we had one on the 80 and it just didn't cut the mustard
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- #20
Said screw it I’ll open it and at minimum change the fluid. And looks like I’ve seen some other guys say. Guess it was a good thing. Cause doesn’t seem like a lot came out.
Was thinking 15-20k fluid. Need to pick up this weekend hopefully I can sneak away next week to install.
Was thinking 15-20k fluid. Need to pick up this weekend hopefully I can sneak away next week to install.