Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

It a DIY job. Oh good to know, didn’t know Landtank sold them modded.
 
It a DIY job. Oh good to know, didn’t know Landtank sold them modded.
Even the ones sold by Witt's End are modified by @landtank. IIRC, he's the original modifier and his are done right.
 
Nice, I’ve been planning to do some preventive maintenance, my DIY FC has been on for 8+/- years now.
 
Will @landtank fan clutch fit on a 60 2f engine?
Don't know, but I doubt it. This is on his Landtankproducts webpage: "Products are mainly for the Toyota 80 series and LX450 and a few others as well." Check with him to be sure.
 
The 2f takes a different fan clutch. The heat made from an engines that makes 125hp isn’t really that much and the stock clutch should be fine.
Thanks & I agree…but just thinking that more might be better. I’ve already replaced the stock 60 FCT 017 with the 80 FCT-049. Has been fine…just looking for more.
 
I had a blue clutch on the garage shelf for a while. The previous clutch started to fail, and the engine/trans temps were climbing over time. Last week I just put the new one on without the mod and it was WORSE than the old coupler. I took the "new" one and emptied much less than 50ml of fluid. The 95 degree test showed the holes were not even open.

I adjusted that and added about 45ml of 15k CST fluid.

I put it back together and it spin quite easily....oophs, did I screw it up? Once I got everything back together, I started the engine and the fan roared to life. I thought, dang did i go too far the other way lol.

Driving around town and up the local hills seems like things are in order. Great thread. Thanks!!!
 
Re-doing this mod today. I’ve done it originally in 2019, drain & fill with 10k cst toyota oil. I think i might have underfilled it or something, I only used two tubes.

Anyway, this is it. For adjustment for 95*C, can I just put in the oven at 200*F?
Also, for draining the fluid, I don’t have time to let it sit overnight, I saw someone putting it in the oven for 30 min at the lowest setting. Can anyone chime in?

Thanks

IMG_1792.jpeg
IMG_1791.jpeg
 
@PeterTheBeater

I prefer to use a boiler/pot on the stove top. The oven or a hair dryer/heat gun may work but it's going to be harder to be as precise with the temps in my opinion.

Method I use:
  1. Put something in the bottom of the pot, like a steam basket, for the tstat to sit on without being directly on the bottom of the pot (The bottom of the pot will be hotter than the water when the eye/burner is on)
  2. Loosen the screws that need to be loose for the adjustment, keep them snug enough that you can easily adjust but it's also not easy to over-adjust.
  3. Place the tstat in the pot, on the steam basket or riser that you added in step one.
  4. Add water to the pot until it comes up on the sides of the tstat but not up and into the tstat body.
  5. Stick a candy thermometer or similar into the water at mid-depth and not on the bottom or sides of the pot (which will be hotter).
  6. Slowly warm the water up to the desired temp and keep it there for long enough for the tstat to settle in at that temp.
  7. Adjust the tstat opening and snug the screws to not lose the adjustment.
There is some variety in the oil weights and opening temps that folks use. I set mine up to the following and it's worked well for a few years since:
  • small hole 50% open at 110 degrees F
  • 45 ml 15k CST oil
edit / addition:

Heating up the oil will help it run out faster. An oven heated up to around 200 degrees F is a good idea. The fan clutch sees temps in that range regularly so it shouldn't hurt anything but I wouldn't go much hotter, just in case. Use a pan/dish that won't see food again!
 
@PeterTheBeater

I prefer to use a boiler/pot on the stove top. The oven or a hair dryer/heat gun may work but it's going to be harder to be as precise with the temps in my opinion.

Method I use:
  1. Put something in the bottom of the pot, like a steam basket, for the tstat to sit on without being directly on the bottom of the pot (The bottom of the pot will be hotter than the water when the eye/burner is on)
  2. Loosen the screws that need to be loose for the adjustment, keep them snug enough that you can easily adjust but it's also not easy to over-adjust.
  3. Place the tstat in the pot, on the steam basket or riser that you added in step one.
  4. Add water to the pot until it comes up on the sides of the tstat but not up and into the tstat body.
  5. Stick a candy thermometer or similar into the water at mid-depth and not on the bottom or sides of the pot (which will be hotter).
  6. Slowly warm the water up to the desired temp and keep it there for long enough for the tstat to settle in at that temp.
  7. Adjust the tstat opening and snug the screws to not lose the adjustment.
There is some variety in the oil weights and opening temps that folks use. I set mine up to the following and it's worked well for a few years since:
  • small hole 50% open at 110 degrees
  • 45 ml 15k CST oil
edit / addition:

Heating up the oil will help it run out faster. An oven heated up to 200 degrees roughly seems like a good idea. The fan clutch sees temps in that range regularly so it shouldn't hurt anything but I wouldn't go much hotter, just in case. Use a pan/dish that won't see food again!
For temp, 100*, are we talking about celsius or fahrenheit?
 
Re-doing this mod today. I’ve done it originally in 2019, drain & fill with 10k cst toyota oil. I think i might have underfilled it or something, I only used two tubes.

Anyway, this is it. For adjustment for 95*C, can I just put in the oven at 200*F?
Also, for draining the fluid, I don’t have time to let it sit overnight, I saw someone putting it in the oven for 30 min at the lowest setting. Can anyone chime in?

Thanks

View attachment 3352919 View attachment 3352920
I used a heat gun to warm up the two sides of the case to aid with draining oil.
 
@PeterTheBeater

I prefer to use a boiler/pot on the stove top. The oven or a hair dryer/heat gun may work but it's going to be harder to be as precise with the temps in my opinion.

Method I use:
  1. Put something in the bottom of the pot, like a steam basket, for the tstat to sit on without being directly on the bottom of the pot (The bottom of the pot will be hotter than the water when the eye/burner is on)
  2. Loosen the screws that need to be loose for the adjustment, keep them snug enough that you can easily adjust but it's also not easy to over-adjust.
  3. Place the tstat in the pot, on the steam basket or riser that you added in step one.
  4. Add water to the pot until it comes up on the sides of the tstat but not up and into the tstat body.
  5. Stick a candy thermometer or similar into the water at mid-depth and not on the bottom or sides of the pot (which will be hotter).
  6. Slowly warm the water up to the desired temp and keep it there for long enough for the tstat to settle in at that temp.
  7. Adjust the tstat opening and snug the screws to not lose the adjustment.
There is some variety in the oil weights and opening temps that folks use. I set mine up to the following and it's worked well for a few years since:
  • small hole 50% open at 110 degrees F
  • 45 ml 15k CST oil
edit / addition:

Heating up the oil will help it run out faster. An oven heated up to around 200 degrees F is a good idea. The fan clutch sees temps in that range regularly so it shouldn't hurt anything but I wouldn't go much hotter, just in case. Use a pan/dish that won't see food again!
∆∆∆ This method works great, I spaced the bi metal coil (tstat) off the bottom of the pan but used the cool down method. I wanted to ensure the bi metal strip was fully and evenly heat saturated for adjustment.

The picture shows a brand new aisin blue fan clutch that didn't work well at all out of the box.

I brought the water above what I was going for with temperature with the bimetal strip and about half the body fully submerged then shet heet off, with my fluke multimeter tracking temperature, then adjusted.

I tested it 3 times watching the valving open and close, added 15cst oil and it's been great 2 years now.

I set mine to start to open at 97.5° I sometimes wonder if that's too low because on really hot days on road trips going 70 miles an hour down the highway I don't think my fan clutch really needs to be locked in and pushing as hard as it does.

I've been tempted to pull it out and redo it at a higher temperature but again as others have stated this is a personal choice, I mean is it working to welll? Is working too well a problem.....

It's all personal and intended use right, on the trail when I need extra air moving under 5 mph this fan clutch is absolutely Epic. With the 80 in low four wheel drive it's amazing how much air moves through the radiator. I guess the trade-off is on the highway on super hot 110 plus degree Days I feel power loss I suspect from the clutch being locked in consistently but it's only on big hill climbs like The siskiyou pass and perts of Tahoe highway 50/80.

I guess what I'm saying it is hasn't bothered me enough to redo my fan clutch and when I'm on the trail the peace of mind is nice.

I haven't seen many here on mud using electric fans, my 98 Tacoma was the first vehicle I restored before I had an 80 and when I rebuilt that motor I put in an electric dual fan it's incredible but the 3RZ-FE motor I don't think produces anywhere near the heat as the 1fz in the Land Cruiser, I am tempted to try it out......... I have been told electric fans won't move near as much air as a properly operating fan shroud and clutch like in the 80.

Screenshot_20230620-084843~2.png
 
Last edited:
Completed and tried out my adjusted fan clutch. Damn that ****er roars. I’ve replaced the thermostat with OEM one as well as some random coolant hoses. It got up to 105* and the truck keeps cool 185-188 on the road with the AC. Parked in the sun, it got up to 195 and mostly stayed there. However, it got up to 212 once.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom