Blown Transfer Case? Actually a blown front diff (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter drjman
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- Thread starter
- #22
He didn't open up anything. I think he went just by the noise and that's it.
I just picked it up and drove it home in 4H with center locked. No issues or noises at all. Now I'm working on getting those caps off!
Wow
- Thread starter
- #24
I pulled the caps off and the snap rings were on both sides. Drivers side looked ok to me, no play. I'm not sure what they are supposed to look like though.
Driver's side with ring off:
The passenger side looked worse than the other side so I took the flange off:
Before I pulled the flange, I tried to see if there was any play. There was a slight (very slight) amount of play. Not sure what's normal.
This doesn't look stripped to me, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Driver's side with ring off:
The passenger side looked worse than the other side so I took the flange off:
Before I pulled the flange, I tried to see if there was any play. There was a slight (very slight) amount of play. Not sure what's normal.
This doesn't look stripped to me, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Couvi
SILVER Star
Happened to me last summer. CClip popped off, axle slipped out and stripped the drive flange. Drove fine with center diff lock on. Had to replace axle, flange, clip and repack bearings.
- Thread starter
- #26
Beat my by a second. Both clips are in and things look ok?
- Thread starter
- #27
So i'm thinking based on the splines not being totally stripped, that it's the front Diff. I don't have the money right now for that, so I'm looking at converting to two wheel drive. I read through the article in the FAQ, but I'm confused about whether or not the flanges need to be machined?
Would I just put the flanges, c clips, cap back together and remove the front drive shaft and plate? And just drive it Locked?
Would I just put the flanges, c clips, cap back together and remove the front drive shaft and plate? And just drive it Locked?
Drive it slowly around the block with the flanges off. Disegage the CDL and see if the noise is still there.
- Thread starter
- #30
Good call. I'll do that in the morning.
- Thread starter
- #31
He said in the transfer case, not the diff. And he may have been stretching it and just going by the sound it makes. I'm never taking a car back to those guys.
but now your thinking the issue could be the front diff, if something is bad in there, you will see it in the oil.
- Thread starter
- #33
Good call. I will check that as well.
- Thread starter
- #34
There is still a whirring noise with the flanges off. I can see the shaft ends spinning with the flanges off.
Still unable to drive in 4H without center locked.
- Thread starter
- #35
My assumption is that without any resistance, the front diff spins a little easier and just has that whirring noise, so it's not slipping as much. With the flanges on, there is a lot of resistance and that's where the grinding and loose bearing noise is coming from.
So my question now is it better to leave the driveline intact and just drive it locked? Or should I remove the front driveshaft and plate and drive it that way? I don't have the money to fix it right now, and I need a working vehicle.
So my question now is it better to leave the driveline intact and just drive it locked? Or should I remove the front driveshaft and plate and drive it that way? I don't have the money to fix it right now, and I need a working vehicle.
If the front diff is broke then you want to stop its innards from spinning while still being able to drive around. That is done by locking the xfer case and:
1. Removing front drive shaft from xfer case to front diff,
-and either-
2a. Installing non-splined wheel flanges,
-or-
2b. Removing front flanges completely,
-or-
2c. Removing both CV axles.
However, 2b & 2c will allow the elements into your front wheel bearings and is not recommended. But 2b is the easiest.
1. Removing front drive shaft from xfer case to front diff,
-and either-
2a. Installing non-splined wheel flanges,
-or-
2b. Removing front flanges completely,
-or-
2c. Removing both CV axles.
However, 2b & 2c will allow the elements into your front wheel bearings and is not recommended. But 2b is the easiest.
- Thread starter
- #37
1 and 2b is done...for now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
may be a ghetto solution, but would a die grinder and carbide burr be sufficient to take the splines off the flanges? When I hear to have the machined smooth I think of taking them to a shop and having them smoothed perfectly circular. Really, would the die grinder do it well enough on its own, provided you went deep enough and the cv splines weren’t hitting anything?
Edit* I mean this as a trail fix or got to get home fix
Edit* I mean this as a trail fix or got to get home fix
Last edited:
Pulling up an old thread.
I was just at a stop light, went to drive and big grinding, no motion. Tried to back up, and same grinding in reverse, no motion.
Wasn’t in a great area, pushed my car out of the intersection.
Decided to try to lock the Center Diff. I could now drive, so I limped back home.
Tried googling my problem and ended up on this thread. The above comment from jLB seemed to fit my description.
I’m not too mechanically inclined, so does anybody have an idea such as the above? I don’t know what the “front axle to drive plate interface” is that is referred to in the quote above, but jLB pretty much described my symptoms.
2006 with 375k miles, was going for 500k but if this is a costly fix I may have to give her up?
You show your CV axle and drive flange, in your pictures, in this thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
Snowbanked into a fire hydrant.....
Been crazy weather up here in Michigan . Slid off the road sideways into a snowbank apparently buried within the 4 foot high snowbanks was a fire hydrant. Insurance says all the shops are about a month out. So they say the adjuster will come out and cut me a check and I can go get it fixed...
forum.ih8mud.com
