I have begun to research lining the entire body of my 96’ 450. As I look through posts about those who have went this route, I see none that went with black, that look black. They appear very faded black. My stock color is black and I would like to keep it that way. So can someone point me to a product that stays truly black or can something be added to one of more common black kits to make it darker. Per usual, any help is appreciated.
“Blackest” Truck Liner (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Nightbrew
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nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Electrical tape looks great and stays glossy
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Armorall?
the texture of the liner will catch light and dust and look lighter no matter what you do.
Have you looked at monstaliner black? I did some of my own reading years ago and they seemed to have a pretty good pigment that resisted uv fading.
Mace put some black in his 60 to give you an idea.
Monstaliner Bedliner
Have you looked at monstaliner black? I did some of my own reading years ago and they seemed to have a pretty good pigment that resisted uv fading.
Mace put some black in his 60 to give you an idea.
Monstaliner Bedliner
I had a show truck, and too keep the bed liner looking really nice and black and not faded I’d spray tire shine on and it wouldn’t look glossy at all, just really black and would last a good amount of time. Knew a lot of people that did the same thing.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Look for a liner that is uv stable or can have it mixed in. Also there is the option of painting the liner 
- Thread starter
- #8
I guess I haven’t seen that. To a certain extent it kinda defeats the purpose of lining the rig.Look for a liner that is uv stable or can have it mixed in. Also there is the option of painting the liner
Hornd
SILVER Star
I used Raptor Liner on my bumper. It's nice stuff.
All these coating are only as good as the prepared base they are put on.
I went to bare metal then used a spray on Epoxy Primer. Was easy to apply but was $20+ for one spray can. Barely was enough.
All these coating are only as good as the prepared base they are put on.
I went to bare metal then used a spray on Epoxy Primer. Was easy to apply but was $20+ for one spray can. Barely was enough.
Here is Monstaliner black on the bottom for a direct comparison to the paint. Since Monstaliner sells a tintable product too, I wonder if you can make a blacker black?
I mean for someone who wheels a rig it's worth it, besides most of these rigs have s***ty paint anyways.
- Thread starter
- #13
I don’t wheel. This rig hauls my family around. I don’t plan on selling it, and if I did it won’t be worth much anyway. My paint is suffering, and I’m thinking lining the rig will protect against rust etc for quite a while.
- Thread starter
- #14
What primer did you end up using? Is there a certain one that monstaliner recommends?
- Thread starter
- #15
That is pretty black, but still far from the paint just above it. I see a Lexus badge in there, what method did you use to fill the holes from deflaring and decladding?
Here is Monstaliner black on the bottom for a direct comparison to the paint. Since Monstaliner sells a tintable product too, I wonder if you can make a blacker black?
Respetfully disagree.
Even with bad paint 80s will continue to appreciate in value. The minute you put liner on, you eliminate the opportunity to restore it. I’ve watched the classifieds for years now and lined 80s (even the rockers) consistently bring 2-3k less.
If it’s rust free, I would rock the crappy paint.
This. When my bed liner was black I would armorall it and it stayed deep black with a little sheen for quite a while. I still armorall my armor after a bath to darken up the black
The liner was originally done by BltByKrmn. He covered the holes with aluminum tape. This has worked ok, but the tape is releasing the liner in some spots. I plan to redo it in the spring with either plastic plugs or with JB Weld.
If you're going to line the whole thing just for rust prevention and not wheel it, then prep prep prep. Get it on there to whatever texture you want, then spray it gloss black rustoleum 2x. It's not to keep it from getting scratched with branches and stuff, so the liner will be a good base for your new glossy paint.
I keep thinking I'll plasti-dip mine because I don't go to places where I'll bump into things. That protects things ok, and I know how to touch it up well enough.
I keep thinking I'll plasti-dip mine because I don't go to places where I'll bump into things. That protects things ok, and I know how to touch it up well enough.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
If you’re thinking DIY then I’d look to Raptor as a known kit. It holds a shine compared to Monster.
If you’re looking to spend the ~$5K++ any quality spray shop will quote you, I’d pop the extra $$$ for the UV stable (premium) Line-X. And I dislike Line-X.
The harder the urethane compound, the more shine the surface will keep & shed dust, and Line-X is far harder across the board than Rhino liners for the big name franchises. The premium is so hard it is slippery when wet, it’s that glossy.
What do you think of pulling all the cladding & either foil/furnace tape or use big pop rivots in the 150 ka-zillion holes, and DIY the Raptor in a color same or slightly darker than the silver (or black) of the plastic cladding & leave it all just below that beltline?
—Then, even dirty it’ll still seem decent & now you also rustproofed the worst issue the 450’s have —
(IMO, if you look in my Album you can see in pics my old 450 done this way)
Mine was all big poprivots, and Rhino is thick enough you had to look to see the poprivot heads - If I didn’t say how it was done, you never would have known.
The black 450’s don’t have clearcoat (that I know) - so not like you’re flaking off clearcoat like dandruff, no real reason to line the hood & roof.
Also, a lined hood ::needs:: new shocks/lifters, ‘cause it’s heavy as he!!.
If you’re looking to spend the ~$5K++ any quality spray shop will quote you, I’d pop the extra $$$ for the UV stable (premium) Line-X. And I dislike Line-X.
The harder the urethane compound, the more shine the surface will keep & shed dust, and Line-X is far harder across the board than Rhino liners for the big name franchises. The premium is so hard it is slippery when wet, it’s that glossy.
What do you think of pulling all the cladding & either foil/furnace tape or use big pop rivots in the 150 ka-zillion holes, and DIY the Raptor in a color same or slightly darker than the silver (or black) of the plastic cladding & leave it all just below that beltline?
—Then, even dirty it’ll still seem decent & now you also rustproofed the worst issue the 450’s have —
(IMO, if you look in my Album you can see in pics my old 450 done this way)
Mine was all big poprivots, and Rhino is thick enough you had to look to see the poprivot heads - If I didn’t say how it was done, you never would have known.
The black 450’s don’t have clearcoat (that I know) - so not like you’re flaking off clearcoat like dandruff, no real reason to line the hood & roof.
Also, a lined hood ::needs:: new shocks/lifters, ‘cause it’s heavy as he!!.
