BJ74 Restoration and LHD Conversion has begun!

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Shes Mad said:
I see what you mean on the sash, but I don't think that will be much of an issue. What the FSM is referring to is pushing the window in enough, IE compressing the sealant enough to get the finish strip to clip over it. If you don't have someone holding from the outside while you put the finish piece over the inside, it could be a chore. You may need to use a needle nose pliers to pull the window frame into the FRP top enough to get the finish trim over it.

I will let the glass man decide if you put the sealant on the FRP top, then put the window in, or put it on the window frame, and put it into the top. I would guess put it on the FRP top

Haven't been able to figure out the QUOTES part of the new site yet
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The glass man got the windows in yesterday. He used a roll butyl, I believe 4MM. He put it on the Window frame, and pressed it pretty flat before he pulled the tape side off. Then he just pushed it in place. Didn't take much of a squeeze to get the interior sash trim on. The key was pushing it pretty flat on the window frame, rather than trying to squeee it flat.
 
Gun Runner 5 said:
Those rims look great ......
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Thanks!

I am going to bead blast a scrap piece of aluminum tomorrow. Go over part of it with scotch brite, part with 1200 paper, part with 2000 and then powder coat it. Then I have 4 shades to get an idea of how much work i want to put into it to get the desired effect
 
Well I did the piece of scrap, and not sure if I like the semi gloss. I think it needs to be gloss. Didn't learn much.

I went over one rim with green scotch brite, which is about 800. (#8 Glass bead is 800) Because of the machined grooves in the wheel, I am not sure if I can get it much better by hand. I thought about just clearing them with gloss urethane clear coat, but not sure how that would last. I guess I could spray it on--pretty easy to strip it back off if I don't like it. Not so easy to strip powdercoat off. These are both bare. no clearcoat yet

 
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My rims will be available all week if you want to drop by and demonstrate your talent.
 
They look great.......
If they left the factory with a gloss finish I would go back with the same finish.
 
Well I found out something interesting today. Nobody wants to powder coat clear gloss on aluminum rims! So I guess I will go with semi gloss. In reality, they will turn out pretty close to the sheen they are right now.

I received my 1" spacers today, and test fit the rims. The rims are 4 5/8 backspace, and would not clear the tie rod end. With the spacers, they clear the tie rod and the caliper. Even better, since the factory studs are 1", no shortening required.

I mounted the rims up on one side. I actually think the sheen on the rims right now is just right. Just need clear coat for protection. I think the way they fit in the wheel house will be good also. Check out the pics, and chime in if you like.









 
Inch and a half would put the stance closer to your target, in my opinion. Without flares you are good.

Remember the photo I posted. That is an inch and a half spacer AND an 8 inch wide wheel, not 7.
 
Yeah I agree with Dan, I dont think your going to be quite wide enough with those rims and spacers to match up to your flares. Here is a comparison pic of mine with 16x8 rims with 3.75" backspacing and 1" spacers, running 35x12.5R16 Trxus M/T's. Tires are sticking out 1.5" past the body which would be a perfect match for those flares (in case you decide not to use them ;))
222.webp
 
Ok. I think the bare rims are deceiving.

Go back and look at post 174, page 6. Those are the same size tires on 4" backspace rims. With these rims ( 4 1/2 backspace with 1" spacer, I am 1/2 inch further out than that pic. Year, they could be out a little more, but I can address that with more spacing if I feel the need. I want the bulge of the tire inside the flare edge.

I think I will be going with BFG All terrains, because i will be on road much much more than offroad. Probably never in the mud. Pretty limited selection of narrow tall tires out there in 15 inch
 
"Go back and look at post 174, page 6." See mash up of two photos below.

Looks good either way. I am just a little sensitive because my skinny little rims and tires are envious of every other set of shoes on this site...... maybe it will look better with increase from 6 to 7 inch rims and some 1.5 inch spacers - these are 16s.

Tire Mashup.webp
Skinnies.webp
 
you should be about 1" from the outside of the sidewall to the edge of the covering sheet metal or flare edge to keep the crap off the vehicle.
i feel you boys are WAY over thinking this.
stock off set and an inch to inch and a half wider tire. this will give the truck the stock look with the flares. what ever off set rims you are using then adjust according to the ratio above and the final look will be clean ... just like the rest of the build you did ... perfect.
 
cruiserdan said:
Inch and a half would put the stance closer to your target, in my opinion. Without flares you are good.

Remember the photo I posted. That is an inch and a half spacer AND an 8 inch wide wheel, not 7.
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If the tires (33x10.50x15) are basically flush with the fender am I to assume there are no spacers? This whole spacer thing confuses me than again the top on the aspirin bottle also confuses me.

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One variable RE this topic is the backspace of the selected wheel. I bet your version of the wheel has less backspace than his does. He measured his backspace at 4 5/8 inches and I bet your wheels are 3.5 inches. So the ultimate fitment of your wheel without a spacer and his wheel with a 1 inch spacer would be about the same.

I'm not sure how many beer can wall thicknesses we are talking about however. :rimshot:
 
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