Builds BJ42 To UZJ42 Build thread, V8 Engine swap, 1UZ-FE, A343F, HF1A, Electronics, etc.

[Vossie]

Such an awesome build, don't know how I've missed it for so long!
I'm doing something both the same and different to you. I too got my engine from my own LS400, a 1998, so I have vvti to contend with. I'm not using the 40 series chassis though.
I'm just about ready to start figuring out where I'm going to mount my engine, how far off of the firewall is your engine sitting?

 

[YvesNL]

@Vossie It's quite far off the firewall, I did that to have a longer rear driveshaft.

The "keepout" in the firewall is not big enough to push the 1UZ all the way back, but mine's even further forward.

Here are a few pictures, about 75mm or three inches from firewall:

About 125mm or 5 inches from hump in firewall.

 

[Vossie]

@Vossie It's quite far off the firewall, I did that to have a longer rear driveshaft.

The "keepout" in the firewall is not big enough to push the 1UZ all the way back, but mine's even further forward.

Here are a few pictures, about 75mm or three inches from firewall:
View attachment 2900872

About 125mm or 5 inches from hump in firewall.
View attachment 2900871

Awesome, thanks very much. I'm also planning on being as far forward as possible as well, but for me it's because with my modified t case attached to my auto the whole assembly is 2m long!

 

[waiting for time]

I still think we need to remove the hump or even flip it to gain the space for the HV system.
Looks like there is even enough space to outside air from the original vent through a duct in the engine bay.

 

[YvesNL]

You are right, still need to decide on DIY'ing a AC system or buying one. For now I'll route the lines to the cab so I can decide later.

This weekend I finished the shifter mechanism. Well... Finished... I still need a few bolts & shift knobs, but I'm happy with the levers & links.
I wanted to use the existing holes in the transmission tunnel so I got to work. I mounted a stainless plate with some mounting holes on top of the transmission:

The long stud & nut you see will be replaced by a socket head screw. The lever with the rings as spacers will be the transfer case shifter.

From this lever I used stainless rod & ends to go to the transfer case, here is the front side:

And the rear (the rod ends will receive a clamping nut), connected to the transfer case (HF1A), shift pattern H2 - H4 - N - L4:

Then I used some IGUS ESTM splitable bearing blocks to mount the automatic transmission shifter and some two piece shaft collars to center the rod:

Finish welded the two shifters and put a bend in the transmission shift lever so it would clear the heater & AC under the dash:

Links to the automatic transmission shifter side:

And the transmission side, I welded a bolt to the old piece that fits inside the rubber with a retaining clip:

The bend looks nice, everything is installed here. Just have to replace the four hex bolts that hold the bearing blocks with socket head screws:

This is park position, transfer case in H2:

Drive position and transfer case in H4, also shifts nicely to N & L4:

I tapped some M16x2 threads on the 16mm stainless rod. Next I will 3D print some nice shift knobs with the shift pattern on them.
The shifters have a real nice mechanical feel to them and I really like to use the original locations & style instead of an automatic style transmission shifter.

 

[tmarx]

Superb work !

 

[YvesNL]

Did some work, small things.

Need to get a spacer instead of the stack of rings but I almost finished the shifters:

3D printed some knobs for fun:

Low Range Lever:

Added some m20x1.5 to AN10 adapters, AN10 to 1/8NPT sensor housing and AN10-AN6 adapters for the ATF cooler lines and put some nuts on the shift linkages:

Added rubber mounts to the radiator mount on bottom & sides to keep anything from cracking / fatiguing:

Used a "Dorman 54002 Engine Coolant Recovery Kit" as overflow tank & made a bracket that bolts onto the radiator mount:

Still need to decide on my suspension. I could refresh the OEM suspension & install new shocks, Get OME suspension, Ironman Foamcell Pro, Parabolics... Lots of options to choose from. I think my front end is lighter that original, might have to take that into account too (or build a heavy bumper with a Warn 8274). It would be nice to fit skinny 33'' Mud-Terrain tires without cutting my rear fenders.

 

[Vossie]

Looking good. Not sure on your box, but on my 5 speed auto, the a650e, there are limit switches in the shifter that tell the ECU what gear to be in when I manually move the shifter. Will that work with your setup or are you planning on only ever running in drive? Or is this one of those boxes that needs only linear shift pattern?

 

[YvesNL]

There are some signals that the ECU needs, mostly from the linear shift pattern. I think I'll get these from the neutral safety switch.
If I need more buttons I'll possibly place some switches. I might also create a "shift box" to manually select gears off road, but we'll see if this is necessary.

I got a powersteering hose made and installed. Also found a spot for the fuel filter:

Some new PTFE hoses for the fuel in this picture. The old ones I had were not resistant to E10 fuel, or I wasn't sure, PTFE is a safe bet.
I used a banjo to AN6 adapter to connect to the fuel rail, I used the 1UZ's OEM pulsation damper.