BJ42, HJ47 Tachometer Bezel Dimensions (1 Viewer)

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Mopdog said:
Thanks,
I have a lot of time, effort, and $$$ into these so I hope you are right. I am hoping to have these in the storefront in the next couple of days, pricing and order info will be there.

Where is your store front? I'd like to order one.
 
Thanks for the orders guys, a big box showed up today, time to get to work.

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maybe I missed it... but how much and where to send $$??

Prices are listed in the Merchandise Storefront insde the Vendoers Market tab. If you are interested just PM me. I have some available now, depending on what configuration you need, I can proably ship as soon as Monday.
 
In talking with imabigbangkindofguy, thanks by the way, it came to my attention that mounting to the right side of the cluster would require a lower profile than my original design. Here is a picture of the back after fitting an led light inside the case and removing the support post for the rear cover. The rear cover really isn't needed with it being mounted behind the dash. It was originally there due to the gauge originating as a pedistal mount version. As you can see in the picture the overall distance from the back of thbe bezel to the back of the dash is under 2".
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I like your new Avatar :bounce: :clap: :bounce2:

Rudi
 
I will now be offering a kit so you can assemble your own gauge and bezel. The bezel will come anodized and ready for you to paint. The kit will include the necessary hardware and gaskets to assemble and mount the unit as well as your choice of gauge face. It does not include the gauge, you will have to provide your own, autometer 2888, 2890, or 2891. You may need additional parts based on your individual install, year, mounting location, 12 or 24 volt, etc. These additional parts are not included but I will let you know where to get them. The price for the kit will be $165 shipped in the lower 48. These are in stock and will ship within a couple days of ordering.

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Tachometer bezel kit assembly instructions

1. Here is the Tachometer as it arrives removed from the packaging. The gauge is not included in the kit, they are available from several sources, local parts stores, Jegs, and Summit are a few.
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2. Use a screwdriver to remove the pedistal mount ring.
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3. Use an allen wrench to remove the screw holding the rear dust cap on.
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4. Remove the rear dust cap, and then cut the zip tie that is holding the wires together.
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5. Use a flat head screwdriver to gently pry back the lip on the front bezel. A twisting motion several times around the gauge seems to work best.
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6. Carefully remove front bezel and take out the glass and inner black ring.
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7. Remove the two small nuts on the back of the gauge housing.
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8. Remove the guage internals from the housing.
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9. Gently pull on the needle with your thumb and index finger. Use steady even pressure and it will pop right off. Do not wobble side to side or twist, just pull strait up.
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10. Use a small phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holdiing the face onto the gauge internals. Remember when reassembling that the cutout on the circuit board for the light is the top. These can be reassembled upside down if you are not paying attention.
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11. Use some acetone on a Q-tip to remove the white paint on the gauge face. Fingernail polish remover works fine for this just make sure you wife or girlfriend isn't home. Do not smear any of the white paint into the center of the gauge face or you wil have to repaint it black.
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12. Apply the new gauge face and reattach it to the the gauge internals with the two screws you removed earlier.
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13. Put the gauge internals and face back into the gauge housing and secure with the two small nuts removed from the back of the housing earlier.
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14. Use a zip tie to bundle wires back up.
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15. To put the needle back on, the gauge must be hooked up to a 12 volt power supply. A 12 volt batttery or a jump pack work fine. When power is applied the needle post will point to zero. Once you have power to the unit line the needle up with zero and push it back onto the needle post. To test for proper allignment remove the power from the unit and move the needle off of zero. When power is reapplied it should bounce back to zero.
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17. The glass and inner black ring go in next, then the gauge, followed by the lock ring. Secure the lock ring with the 4 screws provided in the kit. Slowly tighten the the 4 screws 1/2 turn at a time until the glass on the front of the gauge will no longer move or turn by hand. Undertightening will not allow the unit to seal, overtightening may break the glass.

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