BJ42, HJ47 Tachometer Bezel Dimensions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Wow, I haven't been following your project but you have really made a quality looking repro! I am still interested, what are you thinking as far as price...or should I put that question in a PM? I am sure you won't have a problem selling lots of these!
 
These look great!

When you start selling them, I'm going to treat my H to the 5k version. Did I mention these look great?! Awesome work.
 
Last edited:
KY Longhunter said:
Which of these is correct for 2F engine?
Click to expand...

The 4k would be the "most correct" for the F and 2F engines, I say "most correct because these were never available on stateside 40's or any gas version as far as I know. The 6k will work as well but I really had the SBC crowd in mind with those.
 
My71FJ40 said:
Wow, I haven't been following your project but you have really made a quality looking repro! I am still interested, what are you thinking as far as price...or should I put that question in a PM? I am sure you won't have a problem selling lots of these!
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I have a lot of time, effort, and $$$ into these so I hope you are right. I am hoping to have these in the storefront in the next couple of days, pricing and order info will be there.
 
amaurer said:
:beer::beer:

Glad I could help; you did an awesome job! I bet these sell like hotcakes.

Do you have a minimum quantity required to kick off the run?
Click to expand...

All the parts except the gauges were custom so I just had to buck up and fork out the cash for the minimum quantities. I have everything except the actual gauges in my garage. My wife has been very supportive thus far but is closing in on the end of her patience for this project. The budget and timeline I sold her on have both long been exceeded,:meh: (oops, it was for the greater good) as such the deposits I am taking will cover the cost of the gauges, until I get back to even, then I will try to keep them in stock, hopefully eliminating most of the wait.
 
I have some wiring questions and am hoping one of the elecrical wizards on here will chime in. The diesel Autometer gauges, model 2888, that I am using only come in 12 volt, yet I have had a couple of potential customers ask questions as to whether they can be used in a 24 volt cruiser. I contacted Autometer and they are checking with a tech as to whether or not the alternator pickup will work, they thought it would be fine but wanted to talk to the guru. They are supposed to get back with me in the next couple of days.I have searched the forum and found a reference to a guy using relays to install his but no actual directions. Apparently on at least some 24v cruisers the gauge wiring is 12v. Is there a way to use the converted 12v power to run the tach light and ignition power supply? Or maybe a way to restrict the voltage through a relay? Here is a link to the install sheet for the gauge. http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/148i.pdf My electrical knowlege is admittedly pretty weak so dont be afraid to spell any info you have out. Thanks
 
Last edited:
Since I have a stake in the answer to this question maybe you should start a new thread with this question. Probably get more views that way. Looking forward to someone smarter than I figuring this out
 
jfrench said:
Since I have a stake in the answer to this question maybe you should start a new thread with this question. Probably get more views that way. Looking forward to someone smarter than I figuring this out
Click to expand...

I posted it in the diesel 24v volt section this morning and sent out a few PM's. The electrical part will work fine, with a couple small modifications. It is a matter of whether or not the pickup will work on the alternator.
Here is a link to a thread that looks like it will work. https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/244185-tachnometer-3b.html. I PMed Diesel42 to make sure, it is the same setup.
 
Last edited:
24V set up

Hi to the 24V diesel lovers.
We all know that the 24V boys (and girls) don't want to tap 12V from their dual battery system so I came up with this solution.
There are 2 things to deal with. The ilumination light bulb and the 12V tacho unit.
The light bulb is easy, replace for a 24V type.
The tacho unit is easy too by using a step down converter. Not a drop down resistor which will get warm or hot and you have to hide somewhere in the wiring.
I adjusted the 12V wiring diagram by inserting this step down converter which is easy to obtain at a truck shop or a boat/marine shop. I choose for a low wattage (1.1 Amp) converter but if you want to hookup more stuff you can buy a 5 or 10Amp converter. A quick search on the net told me that the pricing starts at $10.
imagesCANILOAW.webp imagesCAOCUO9M.webp this one is 3Amp.

I think the diagram speaks for itself.

Tacho 24V MopDog.webp

Rudi
Tacho 24V MopDog.webp
imagesCANILOAW.webp
imagesCAOCUO9M.webp
 
Thanks for that Rudi. I can get one now!

A question you might be able to answer...

I'm doing the gauge cluster conversion amaurer sells (sold) with EL wire. He provided a little electronic thingy that I think makes 12v from 24v and supplies power to the EL wire light. Do you think I could I run extra EL wire to the tach from this?

I'm going to send amaurer a PM and ask him too.

Thanks again
 
I don't know how much mA the EL wire draws, also I don't know the specs from the converter supplied by Amaurer so the answer has to come from him I think.

Rudi
 
I only supplied a small linear regulator for your EL wire, jfrench... its rated for over 1A, but it would require a heat sink for those kinds of loads. Frankly I can't tell you how much power you can pull from it in the configuration I used (no heat sink)... but you can try it if you like; its thermally protected and will just shut down if it overheats, you shouldn't be able to damage it.

Maybe hook up the gauge and then keep your fingers on the regulator to see how warm its getting. Some warmth is OK so long as it doesn't melt any insulation. If after 10 minutes you can still hold it in your hand then I'd say its safe.

Alternatively, you're going to need a good 12V source sooner or later. In my own 24V truck I use a Samlex SDC-30, which is good for 30A and runs everything, including my stereo without breaking a sweat. $100 bucks.

Samlex SDC-30 24V to 12V DC Converter

As for everyone else, I don't think you're going to need anything fancy for this application to use a 12V gauge on a 24V truck. Buy an LM7812 from radioshack ($3 in the parts bins) and hang it off of one of the mounting screws on the back of mopdogs assembly - it'll use the dash as a heat sink and will easily handle a full amp, I'm sure.
 
amaurer said:
As for everyone else, I don't think you're going to need anything fancy for this application to use a 12V gauge on a 24V truck. Buy an LM7812 from radioshack ($3 in the parts bins) and hang it off of one of the mounting screws on the back of mopdogs assembly - it'll use the dash as a heat sink and will easily handle a full amp, I'm sure.
Click to expand...

Good thinking from Amaurer. Here is his idea translated in a pic. It needs a little bit of soldering and some heat shrink tube but it's a simple job.
tacho 24_12V LM7812.webp

Rudi
tacho 24_12V LM7812.webp
 
In case its not clear from rudi's diagram (thanks!) the middle terminal may be left unconnected - its Ground, same as the mounting tab. Just make sure you've got good ground contact on the screw itself and/or the bezel.
 
Mopdog said:
That is the 4.7L V8 right? The tach runs off a signal from the coil, so as long as you have a coil in there, I dont see any reason why it wouldn't work.
Click to expand...

The 2UZ 4.7l utilizes coil on wire (igniters) so no traditional coil per se. Grabbing a signal off one wire wouldn't work I don't think, however maybe a signal from the alternator would work. Trouble is I would need the gauge face that has the higher redline, to more closely match the redline of the engine, so the diesel gauge with the gasser gauge face probably wouldn't work out.
 
Rusty said:
The 2UZ 4.7l utilizes coil on wire (igniters) so no traditional coil per se. Grabbing a signal off one wire wouldn't work I don't think, however maybe a signal from the alternator would work. Trouble is I would need the gauge face that has the higher redline, to more closely match the redline of the engine, so the diesel gauge with the gasser gauge face probably wouldn't work out.
Click to expand...

Looks like the Autometer tach adapter does the trick, gathers signal from all the igniters and outputs a signal to the tach...

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=99
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom