BJ40 Exhaust smoke (1 Viewer)

[gerg]

So what did you do with the engine rebuild? New rings or cylinder hone, new liners? How many hours has it been run in? If these are shots of an initial break in I can tell you first hand it will smoke like a bugger till the rings seat. You should follow a break in procedure and not Idle that engine. Who knows, cus you've opened up this engine a whole bunch of things could be at play.

Post up some pics of your pump settings and your kill switch. Your throttle cable is suppose to be attached to the throttle plate on the intake manifold. The manual kill rod goes go the fuel control arm on the side of the pump.
Here is What the pump timing marks look like.

 

[YoYoHo]

Are you talking about your hand throttle ? or do you have the EDIC off and a cable to stop the engine ? Post some pictures

 

[Memphisau79]

Are you talking about your hand throttle ? or do you have the EDIC off and a cable to stop the engine ? Post some pictures

Thanks for all the responses!

I replaced the diaphragm, the old one did not have any obvious tears in it but the new is in. I have not started it yet, brakes are torn apart and it’s in a garage I don’t care to smoke up yet.

Attached are some images of the fuel pump and such... Would love any critique and help, I’m not sure what all the components are.

The green marked item in second image has nothing attached to it except where the skinny rod is pinched w the bolt.

The blue marked item is only connected w a hose back to fuel pump.

Thanks again in advance, will post more photos if requested!

 

[gerg]

The blue thing is the HAC. The high altitude compensator. It normally is vented to atmosphere if I remember correctly.

If the green thing has nothing attached to it what is its purpose?

When I've run cables to shut the pump off manually I disconnect the arm completely except for the shut off cable. The pump defaults to a run position so it doesn't require any help for starting. The EDIC does cycle it to an overinject position momentarily when starting but that's only when the whole thing is set up normally.

If that green thing is a spring to return the arm to the run position then the springs normally present inside of the diaphragm housing might be broken or missing. Normally the arm returns to the run position with signifigant force by itself. I'd unhook the green thing and see if the arm seems loose. The spring I'm referring to is not that large coil Spring you saw when you did the diaphragm. Behind the diaphragm is another spring that hooks inside to return the arm to run. It can become unhooked

 

[Memphisau79]

The blue thing is the HAC. The high altitude compensator. It normally is vented to atmosphere if I remember correctly.

If the green thing has nothing attached to it what is its purpose?

When I've run cables to shut the pump off manually I disconnect the arm completely except for the shut off cable. The pump defaults to a run position so it doesn't require any help for starting. The EDIC does cycle it to an overinject position momentarily when starting but that's only when the whole thing is set up normally.

If that green thing is a spring to return the arm to the run position then the springs normally present inside of the diaphragm housing might be broken or missing. Normally the arm returns to the run position with signifigant force by itself. I'd unhook the green thing and see if the arm seems loose. The spring I'm referring to is not that large coil Spring you saw when you did the diaphragm. Behind the diaphragm is another spring that hooks inside to return the arm to run. It can become unhooked

Thanks!

The green item is the return arm, is that correct?

It has no spring on it anywhere. It is composed of a ‘piston’ w the skinny rod on a swivel projecting off of it and that piston is inside a cylinder. The cylinder is what’s attached to the intake manifold, it has a male electrical blade terminal on it but I don’t think that ever had anything attached. No where on it is a spring though, where would that spring go?

Thanks,
John

 

[gerg]

Never seen the green thing before on a 3B. The EDIC motor is usually there. The pice of wire is also not stock.id unhook the wire and see if the arm on the pump returns to the run position which is towards the firewall. In my mind that is the only function that green thing can serve is to move the arm to run cus the spring in the pump is off or broken. Not a big deal overall but would be good to know.

 

[RustyRanger]

If the green thing has a wire connection on it, it might be some sort of electrical solenoid.

 

[Memphisau79]

Never seen the green thing before on a 3B. The EDIC motor is usually there. The pice of wire is also not stock.id unhook the wire and see if the arm on the pump returns to the run position which is towards the firewall. In my mind that is the only function that green thing can serve is to move the arm to run cus the spring in the pump is off or broken. Not a big deal overall but would be good to know.

This isnt a 3B actually, it’s a B motor.

I can’t find anyone else w this part on there BJ... it freely slides in and out of the cylinder so it’s not doing anything, could this be the issue causing the smoke? I still haven’t had the opportunity to fire up yet.

A retired Toyota parts guy told me let it run idling for an hour or so if it still smokes, it just idles so high

 

[Memphisau79]

I’m not sure why I didn’t post this originally but here is the 55 second video that the screen shots were taken from with the audio too.

 

[gerg]

So being a B or a 3B the edic function snd the injection pump is the same. Has this motor Just been rebuilt? That is a pretty big factor for compression. Can you shoot a picture of the marks on the injection pump I asked for please. Does it smoke like that even if it's up to operating temp? Even if it's Idling too high it should never smoke like that. My truck never smoked like that under heavy load. Have you checked if your system had bubbles in it. You might be sucking in air. Have you checked the valve lash? Wish I was there to help you out. Sorry.

 

[Memphisau79]

So being a B or a 3B the edic function snd the injection pump is the same. Has this motor Just been rebuilt? That is a pretty big factor for compression. Can you shoot a picture of the marks on the injection pump I asked for please. Does it smoke like that even if it's up to operating temp? Even if it's Idling too high it should never smoke like that. My truck never smoked like that under heavy load. Have you checked if your system had bubbles in it. You might be sucking in air. Have you checked the valve lash? Wish I was there to help you out. Sorry.

The rebuild was of the head by a local very reputable shop. Other than that the block was just cleaned some w some oil/gas combo as recommended by a diesel mechanic I know, gaskets replaced obviously too. That video shows the first time firing up and driving.

I have not run it longer than a few minutes but that seemed to heat it up very well... the only reduction to smoke was pulling the manual fuel disengage out slightly. Which helped greatly reduce smoke to almost none but power was compromised too.

Where can I find what you are showing in that photo? I’m sorry I couldn’t tell if that was under the vehicle and if what your trying to see is being pointed at by a flathead screwdriver.

I’m very greatful for all your help and follow up man!

 

[gerg]

Ok so this is a catch 22. On new engines you shouldn't idle them or run then under light load. But driving with an over feueling issue is dangerous too.

 

[-MaTTi-]

I’m not sure why I didn’t post this originally but here is the 55 second video that the screen shots were taken from with the audio too.

This don’t sound and look good at all, something is way off.

 

[gerg]

It sure sounds like you should unhook that wire from the green thing and check the injection pump arm for how loose it is. If so i'd pop the cover off and remove that leather diaphragm you just put in and see if the springs connected. It might be the cause of your over inject issue. Least in hoping.

 

[-MaTTi-]

Over inject? In diesel. It’s called black smoke. This is more like under inject = air leak.

 

[gerg]

So by manipulating the shut off lever you can minimize the smoke. Is that right?

That's not going influence an air leak but it might influence the rack travel which would increase the amount of fuel injected.

 

[Memphisau79]

It sure sounds like you should unhook that wire from the green thing and check the injection pump arm for how loose it is. If so i'd pop the cover off and remove that leather diaphragm you just put in and see if the springs connected. It might be the cause of your over inject issue. Least in hoping.

There’s no wire hooked to that male circuit on the green item, it’s just floating there currently.

The leather diaphragm has a spring the size of 3” stack of quarters that popped out when removing the old diaphragm and was returned the same way when I installed the new.

I replaced the stock air intake w an aftermarket one, I had assumed this wouldn’t make a difference like this but would it? Was just trying to bring more air into engine for more power.

If not this, how would I go after an air leak? And I’m curious what you mean by “rack travel” and how less air would cause smoke like this?

Thanks guys!

 

[gerg]

there are two springs inside that housing. The one you describe is easy to see. The second one is inside but you can only see it by removing the leather diaphragm. I realize there are no electrical wires attached to the green thing, what ever it is, but it is physically attached to the pump arm. I was wanting you to unhook that from the arm and see if the arm on the pump has no tension causing it to snap back towards the firewall. I guess I might just have to draw a picture.

 

[Memphisau79]

there are two springs inside that housing. The one you describe is easy to see. The second one is inside but you can only see it by removing the leather diaphragm. I realize there are no electrical wires attached to the green thing, what ever it is, but it is physically attached to the pump arm. I was wanting you to unhook that from the arm and see if the arm on the pump has no tension causing it to snap back towards the firewall. I guess I might just have to draw a picture.

I’ll investigate the second spring, is it towards the front end or rear ending of vehicle? The larger spring was towards rear end. And is it attached to the diaphragm somehow?

I understand now what you’re saying about detaching that rod, I don’t think there’s any tension on it but I’ll ditch it and see when I fire up again.

Brakes should be put back together next week so long as parts arrive and then can fire up and get it outside to experiment w all the suggestions.

 

[gerg]

So opening up the diaphragm housing and removing it all is alot of work which you know cus you Just did it. I wouldn't want you to do it without a good reason. If unhooking that green thing from the injection Pumps arm shows you the arm has no spring tension in it then that will give you a big clue. If the injection pump arm doesn't snap towards the firewall with alot of force the spring inside has an issue. You don't need to start it to test the spring tension. Just unhook that rod and move it back and forth.