My current rake is about 1.25" (Front 19.25", Rear 20.5"). This is all stock with a Prinsu rack and a ~full tank of gas. I found a few more posts along with Slee that 2721 on a stock LC would gain 2-2.25". So I am thinking perch 5 with a 2.3-2.5" lift would reduce or maintain the current rake. I would prefer the stance to be more even but don't want to put too much of a load on the CV joints with even a higher lift from perch 6. Thank you all for suggestions.
Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Robert B
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My current rake is about 1.25" (Front 19.25", Rear 20.5"). This is all stock with a Prinsu rack and a ~full tank of gas. I found a few more posts along with Slee that 2721 on a stock LC would gain 2-2.25". So I am thinking perch 5 with a 2.3-2.5" lift would reduce or maintain the current rake. I would prefer the stance to be more even but don't want to put too much of a load on the CV joints with even a higher lift from perch 6. Thank you all for suggestions.
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- #242
I believe that is correct because I do not think the heavy load springs are available yet. Bilstein used my LC last month for additional fitment and testing for the heavy springs. I was told that they were pleased with the results that time.
I was just geeking out watching this suspension walkthrough on the TRX. Reminded me of this thread. While they're different systems, it's a good reminder that Bilstein plays at the highest levels of the game. Performance, yeah. But more importantly and perhaps harder, they know what OEM levels of integration and reliability means. Which is why I put them on such a high horse.
Too many aftermarket suspension that may have performance, but don't sweat the details that make for OEM levels of quality.
Too many aftermarket suspension that may have performance, but don't sweat the details that make for OEM levels of quality.
Just a note for anyone ordering from AJ USA: The various components appear to get shipped piecemeal: the rear coils arrived from a nearby distributor first (last week), then the rear shocks arrived today (direct from AJ USA). Still waiting for the front coilovers, not sure why they didn't ship them all together. Never received any tracking numbers for anything.
After ordering, I kept thinking about whether I really wanted to try to continue using the stock UCAs in this setup. I decided not to. I figured if I'm going to do it, then I might as well do it right and not push the stock UCAs to their alignment limit. Ordered Total Chaos UCAs from performancelifts.com a few days after I ordered the Bilstein stuff, and the UCAs arrived today as well. Super impressed with these UCAs just taking them out of the box and looking them over.
After ordering, I kept thinking about whether I really wanted to try to continue using the stock UCAs in this setup. I decided not to. I figured if I'm going to do it, then I might as well do it right and not push the stock UCAs to their alignment limit. Ordered Total Chaos UCAs from performancelifts.com a few days after I ordered the Bilstein stuff, and the UCAs arrived today as well. Super impressed with these UCAs just taking them out of the box and looking them over.
@FerrisBueller TC UCA's sure are pretty and a quality product! I had them on a past 100 series build. I initially did the lift with stock UCA's for 2 or 3 weeks, but then found the new OLD Man Emu UCA's for a killer price and had to add them. I cant say I noticed a driving difference after installation, but my alignment guys was telling me that just because you are "Within Spec" doesn't mean its the best possible spec for your build. He said the UCA's really dial things in nicely. I was thinking I may eventually end up on the highest perch too if I decide to move up to 35's. The pic is before installing the little cap that goes where the zerk fitting is. I needed to go buy some more grease to add before closing capping them.
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After having the 6112/5160 + stock rear springs for a bit I think I am going to jump to OME 2720 rear springs. Last week I had two adults in the back seat + some gear in the back and the rear felt noticeably softer than the 6112 front coils. When riding unloaded it's great but a little too mushy when loaded, even just with adults in the rear seats, for my liking.
Please provide your impressions on the ride with the Bilstein/OME combo. I am on the lowest perch up front and when loaded in the back I am already at a level rake. I have a set of 2720 in the garage and am considering swapping if the Bilstein rear coils aren't enough.
It may not be in the immediate future but I will when I do. Please do the same if you install yours before I make the switch.
Final alignment values. The rear cam bolt and plate wore out, so a replacement was needed before it can be adjusted.
#5 position. Settled to about 2.0" lift (with ARB bumper). Overall drives and track straight with 1.25" Spidertax wheel spacers.
#5 position. Settled to about 2.0" lift (with ARB bumper). Overall drives and track straight with 1.25" Spidertax wheel spacers.
I am curious about the option to pair OME rear springs with the otherwise Bilstien setup as well. My preference would be to not have more than 2”/1” lift and setup for towing, which as I gather info seems the 2722 springs are really dialed for that?
I'm by no means an expert but based on my research, and this thread Lift suggestions? 2721 vs 2722 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lift-suggestions-2721-vs-2722.916774/ , you might want to look at 2721.
Starting to install. Hoping to get at least the rear done today, then the front tomorrow. Picked up some interesting spring compressors that bolt to the spring so they can't slip off. I know people have documented how to assemble the coilovers without compressors, but these seemed worth a try.
Amazon product ASIN B000NHWP8U
Amazon product ASIN B000NHWP8U
yeah, my similarly fashioned but with hooks spring compressors scare the crap out of me. I like the idea of the ones you have but am curious as to the sizing of the u-bolt. Will the spring fir through on an angle? - or maybe the holes for the u-bolt as on the diagonal to capture the rake of the spring.
Ah - haha. The ubolts don't even fit over the front coil.
They fit over the rear, but without much wiggle room.
Front:
Rear:
Guess I'll just have to do it the other documented way, without the compressor.
I am super interested to see how this turns out. I have the same Bilstein set sitting in my garage right now, waiting to be installed. At the moment, I am thinking that the second clip up from the bottom setting on the 6112s would produce a level rake with the Bilstein springs installed.
Looking forward to seeing your stance when your project is done!
Looking forward to seeing your stance when your project is done!
Finished the back. I ended up using the spring compressor to install the springs (like @sdnative did) to avoid disconnecting the panhard bar, etc. Driver's side spring was easy. Passenger side was pretty bad - had to use the compressor to get the old spring out, and it was nearly impossible to get the new spring in. The compressor I had couldn't grab enough of the coils, which would have made it much easier. I don't think I would recommend the average tinkerer to do the rear themselves, at least not the passenger side. My neighbor came over to help - it definitely helped to have a second set of hands and even more tools 
The rear shocks were very easy. Like, each one only took about 15 minutes. Total time for everything was about 5.5 - 6 hours, so that shows how bit a PITA the springs were.
Didn't take many pictures like I normally would. The YouTube video earlier in this thread covers everything perfectly (here: Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bilstein-6112-5160-installed.1213812/page-4#post-13192653)
The Bilstein rear springs are identical part numbers on passenger & driver side, unlike the stock springs where the passenger side is about an inch longer. So you would expect the Bilstein springs (that are equal height) to cause the passenger side to lean lower than the driver side, but it didn't. In fact, after I finished the passenger side, it was actually taller than the driver's side until I let it sit with the KDSS valve bolts loosened, and drove it down the block and back, then it was perfectly level in back. 22 inches from center of hub to fender on both sides.
Looking forward to doing the front tomorrow, which (from this thread) sounds like is easier.
The rear shocks were very easy. Like, each one only took about 15 minutes. Total time for everything was about 5.5 - 6 hours, so that shows how bit a PITA the springs were.
Didn't take many pictures like I normally would. The YouTube video earlier in this thread covers everything perfectly (here: Bilstein 6112/5160 Installed - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bilstein-6112-5160-installed.1213812/page-4#post-13192653)
The Bilstein rear springs are identical part numbers on passenger & driver side, unlike the stock springs where the passenger side is about an inch longer. So you would expect the Bilstein springs (that are equal height) to cause the passenger side to lean lower than the driver side, but it didn't. In fact, after I finished the passenger side, it was actually taller than the driver's side until I let it sit with the KDSS valve bolts loosened, and drove it down the block and back, then it was perfectly level in back. 22 inches from center of hub to fender on both sides.
Looking forward to doing the front tomorrow, which (from this thread) sounds like is easier.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
One thing I've found works well is to put a scissor jack between the axle and the frame on the passenger side (temporarily remove the bump stop). You can expand the jack to get the space you need to remove and install springs. The drivers side is too easy, I've never had an issue getting the necessary room to R&R. The rear suspension is always easier than the fronts, where you have to fight the KDSS.
That's a great idea. I wish I had thought of that.
On the passenger side rear coils I disconnect the sway bar link, which can be a bit of trouble to re-install if you don't have a floor jack that fits in there to push it back up to re-install. I don't think that would be necessary if I had a semi-heavy helper to step on the wheel studs and push down while I install / uninstall the spring. Some springs are longer than others un-compressed and that makes it difficult. Also a stack of spacers / trim packers makes it difficult and they can shift on the bump stop / isolator / whatever that thing is called. Last time with the heritage edition coils, which are longer, plus a 10mm trim packer, with no helper, I used a couple of short Bessey k-body woodworking clamps from a cabinet shop reversed into spreader orientation (vs clamp) and that bought me the downforce I needed to do it alone. A small jack would have been better (or a fat helper).
I'm very curious to know how the Bilstein rear coils compare to OME and Dobinsons offerings. We need a comprehensive 200 series rear spring rate chart with all the current options.
I'm very curious to know how the Bilstein rear coils compare to OME and Dobinsons offerings. We need a comprehensive 200 series rear spring rate chart with all the current options.
I am very curious too.
