steering shaft, before
After.
Next up DOM crush sleeves.
Another small step in the right direction.
Bikersmurf’s 40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stevebradford
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steering shaft, before
After.
Next up DOM crush sleeves.
Another small step in the right direction.
and the bearing at the ignition lock housing...
it was the second to last in North America when I got it.
Some fresh paint.
Needle Scaler. Currently on sale at PA for $35. I know there are better ones out there, but it’ll clean up the few small areas I’ve got. I definitely can’t justify 5-10 X as much for a tool I’ll only use for a few small areas.
I suspect it’ll become one of my favourite tools, based on my initial trial on my rear spring mounting plate. It makes quick work of rust and loose paint. So much more control and speed to access tight corners that would be almost impossible to get into with a grinder.
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Let’s play name that part…
Any guess what these are??? And what they are for?
Any guess what these are??? And what they are for?
Close enough… 3/3 DOM crush tubes for a Scout II P/S swap in a 40.3 of 4 DOM crush tubes needed for chassis in 60 -40 series power steering swap.
I’ve just finished my 60ps swap on my 47.
I fit my sleeves super tight and I did manage to get a bit of weld on each one on the inside of the chassis for retention.
fyi. Make sure your pitman arm is torqued on the sector shaft when you fit up the box and check for clearance
Don’t ask me how I know this.cheers
Crusty
Good to keep in mind… the Scout arm is crazy long, and so far the Jeep pitman arm that’s going to replace it is sloppy loose. I could easily see mocking it up without tightening it down and then living to regret it.I’ve just finished my 60ps swap on my 47.
I fit my sleeves super tight and I did manage to get a bit of weld on each one on the inside of the chassis for retention.
fyi. Make sure your pitman arm is torqued on the sector shaft when you fit up the box and check for clearance
cheers
Crusty
Thanks
Used the hot wrench to remove the bolts for the custom shock tower. Did a test fit on the Scout II box. This is where it’ll fit +/-. I’ll be pushing it as high as the DOM crush tubes will allow. Exact angle will need to be refined once the exact position of the top front bolt is determined.
Pros or Cons to this angle for the box?
Should the shaft be vertical?
I only want to do this once… so I want to get it right.
@hellbent40???
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
@bikersmurf - you just hit 10,000posts! A honest to goodness mud addict.
Takes one to know one…
. You’re not far behind… especially since you’ve been here 4 less years my friend.
Test fit #17. Only 23 more to go…
Bolted in with scab plates. Scab plates still to be welded in.
Bolted in with scab plates. Scab plates still to be welded in.
Are you replacing that pitman arm? How does it line up or are you getting a
dropped pitman arm?
dropped pitman arm?
I’m planning to use that one. The dropped pitman arm I have is too low for my stockish height.
It clears the frame by about 1.5” and the same height as the stock Bel-crank (or whatever you want to call it). I just need to figure out what TRE to use. I know there used to be a TRE that fit the Chevy taper and the Toyota drag link.
Then the rest is straight forward.
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@hellbent40 which TRE did you use? Anyone else who has converted to P/S?
I’m on the fence about which pitman arm to use. The one pictured above has 3/4” drop and would keep stock angles. Vs the one pictured I also have one with 2.5” drop which would have less angle in the drag links but might interfere with the other linkage at full stuff.
I’m fairly stock height… about 4” between axles and bump stops. Most stock 40s are somewhat lower, but I don’t think I’m more than an inch higher than what it was when new.
Is stock sufficient to avoid bump steer issues or should I try to improve on drag link angles? I feel there are trade offs… are they worth it. The only way to be sure is to build it and test drive/twist it. But I’m willing to learn from others experience rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
I’m on the fence about which pitman arm to use. The one pictured above has 3/4” drop and would keep stock angles. Vs the one pictured I also have one with 2.5” drop which would have less angle in the drag links but might interfere with the other linkage at full stuff.
I’m fairly stock height… about 4” between axles and bump stops. Most stock 40s are somewhat lower, but I don’t think I’m more than an inch higher than what it was when new.
Is stock sufficient to avoid bump steer issues or should I try to improve on drag link angles? I feel there are trade offs… are they worth it. The only way to be sure is to build it and test drive/twist it. But I’m willing to learn from others experience rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
After closer examination, I’ve realized that on full compression, the left leaf spring would hit the TRE on the bottom of the pitman arm. Therefore it’ll be best to keep it at the stock height.
Now I’ll just need to figure out the drag link and TRE… and 50 other little things.
One downside of the steering box being outside of frame is that the drag link needs to be clear of the leaf springs… limiting how low the pitman arm can go.
Now I’ll just need to figure out the drag link and TRE… and 50 other little things.
One downside of the steering box being outside of frame is that the drag link needs to be clear of the leaf springs… limiting how low the pitman arm can go.
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Found the missing unicorn TRE… just don’t know what it was from.
Could it be this one?
The taper matches a ‘69 GM arm and the missing nut is larger than 13 mm and smaller than a 14 mm wrench.
More details:
forum.ih8mud.com
Any thoughts or ideas?
Could it be this one?
The taper matches a ‘69 GM arm and the missing nut is larger than 13 mm and smaller than a 14 mm wrench.
More details:
ID TRE for Scout II P/S conversion - Toyota Hilux? 70 series?
I’m hoping someone can identify this TRE. Facts I do know: 1) it has the same size and pitch as the original Fj40 D/S TRE that attaches to the bell crank. I’ve confirmed this by screwing it into two different drag links. 2) the TRE taper matches the P/S pitman arm I have from a 9/1969 four...
forum.ih8mud.com
Any thoughts or ideas?
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A parts guy with a keen eye spotted a difference the one I have appears to be this one…
Vs.
I’m starting to think the best one would be the 80-81 as it would have the steering damper closer to the frame crossmember and further from harms way. The 84-85(88) would likely work out, but not quite as well.
Vs.
I’m starting to think the best one would be the 80-81 as it would have the steering damper closer to the frame crossmember and further from harms way. The 84-85(88) would likely work out, but not quite as well.
80-81 Toyota 4x4 looks like it’s the winner.
It’s about a 1/2” shorter than the other (84-85 Pickup 4x4). This should work out in my favour. Worst case I’ll rotate the pitman arm on the output shaft. The way everything is falling in place, I’m confident it’ll all work out.
If a pitman arm I put aside for this conversion 22 years ago, and it happened to fit perfectly with a Toyota TRE I was given 15+ years ago… I’ll figure out the 1/4” of pitman arm length one way or another.
Gotta love getting OEM parts from the jobber parts supplier. It’s my understanding that the 555 Toyota parts are the ones to get.
It’s about a 1/2” shorter than the other (84-85 Pickup 4x4). This should work out in my favour. Worst case I’ll rotate the pitman arm on the output shaft. The way everything is falling in place, I’m confident it’ll all work out.
If a pitman arm I put aside for this conversion 22 years ago, and it happened to fit perfectly with a Toyota TRE I was given 15+ years ago… I’ll figure out the 1/4” of pitman arm length one way or another.
Gotta love getting OEM parts from the jobber parts supplier. It’s my understanding that the 555 Toyota parts are the ones to get.
Installed with crush sleeves and weld through primer.
