“New” column with DD U-joint, 1.5” OD 3/4” ID bearing, and OEM bearing at ignition switch.
New slip shaft should be close to a straight run.
New slip shaft should be close to a straight run.
Bikersmurf’s 40
- Thread starter stevebradford
- Start date
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A bit more of an angle than I expected at the firewall, but well within the U-joints range. I have both full L & R turning, and full range lock to lock in the steering box.
Next up P/S pump and countersinking the set screws. So far the mock-up is looking good.
Angles look good and nothing interferes.
Next up P/S pump and countersinking the set screws. So far the mock-up is looking good.
Angles look good and nothing interferes.
I’m posting this link for future reference. Without the pump attached there’s roughly an inch of play (turn) in the steering wheel. An inch is spec for this box, but since it’s an older box, I figure it’ll be worth checking the worm gear preload and pitman shaft preload once it’s all assembled and lubricated. I currently don’t want to mess with it when it only has a limited amount of P/S fluid in it after sitting on a shelf for close to a decade.
P/S Lines figured out. Stock Scout II lines and a steel adapter from Green Line.
forum.ih8mud.com
Now I’ll just need to install the pressed on double pulley on the pump, install it, and measure the V-belt length.
Power steering lines in Victoria
forum.ih8mud.com
Now I’ll just need to install the pressed on double pulley on the pump, install it, and measure the V-belt length.
Good work man. Nice to see you making progress on your 40! Hope to see it on the road again!
It’s painfully slow progress… but better than none.
Built a ‘new pump’ out of 3 to get all the parts I needed in the right place.
Measured up for a new P/S belt. Spoke to Gary at Lordco and got a P/N for the length of belt. It’s an exact match for the P/N RockAuto gave me by application for a 1970 Chevy Bel Air P/S belt… which was my original donor. Therefore I’ve done my calculations right and will only need one belt (rather than 3). DAYCO 15360.
That’s the plan. It’ll not be hard since it hasn’t left the yard since February 2020.Nice. It'll feel like a different truck afterwards.
Probably gonna find yourself driving it more often.
I’ve always preferred manual steering, but my body doesn’t like working so much anymore. Between the 80 series booster & master, Scout II Saginaw box, and a Saginaw pump with parts selected to give higher psi, it’ll be way different. If I miss the road feel I’ll reduce the boost. I’ve been learning enough about Saginaw P/S pumps I can mix and match parts and add shims to lower the max psi.
I used to have a Saginaw box running off a Toyota pump. Custom lines flared with ballpeen hammer
Felt pretty good, maybe more boosted than stock Toyota but not full on chev yachting.
Pretty hard to go back after having ps. My tractors ps doesn't work very well, someday I may look into fixing it, but it's a tractor. Fixing things is the next owners job. Seems to be how that works.
I’m shooting in the dark for boost level. If I were to guess I’d say 1300-1400 psi based on YouTube education. Hopefully not crazy boost, but mild Novocain is what I’m after.
My body is severely messed up and driving without assist was always easy at the time, but I’d pay for it for days after. Long boring story with no answers…
So I’ll not bore all of you with it.
My body is severely messed up and driving without assist was always easy at the time, but I’d pay for it for days after. Long boring story with no answers…
So I’ll not bore all of you with it.
Well… it’s never quite that easy. The 15360 was too long. I estimated I needed a 2” shorter one. Lordco had a 15335 (2.5” shorter) and a 15350 (1” shorter) in stock. The 15335 was much to short and the 15350 fit well and I’m happy with how & where the pump sits. I think the 15340 would be very tight to get on, but I might get away with a 15345 if needed. (Notes for future reference)
Well it is alive… single finger steering.
The pump tensioner is currently a ratchet strap, and the pump howls like a banshee under load… but single finger steering on dry pavement… at idle.
New pump is coming from Vancouver. Apparently there was a reason this pump was in a parts pile. I’ve got another, but for $57 I’m going to replace it with a reman unit with a warranty.
The pump tensioner is currently a ratchet strap, and the pump howls like a banshee under load… but single finger steering on dry pavement… at idle.
New pump is coming from Vancouver. Apparently there was a reason this pump was in a parts pile. I’ve got another, but for $57 I’m going to replace it with a reman unit with a warranty.
Well it is alive… single finger steering.
The pump tensioner is currently a ratchet strap, and the pump howls like a banshee under load… but single finger steering on dry pavement… at idle.
New pump is coming from Vancouver. Apparently there was a reason this pump was in a parts pile. I’ve got another, but for $57 I’m going to replace it with a reman unit with a warranty.
Right on! Nice work!
Still needs a tab for the adjuster, a newer pump, a revised rad mount, shock towers, and the scab plates welded in. But it feels like victory is within my grasp.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #75
I appreciate the offer, but unfortunately they are too short. I ditched stock towers because I kept bottoming out and over extending stock shocks. I’ve got Ford shock towers on the way. They’re tall enough, and should fit with little or no modifications.
Fold and tumble Tj seat for kids in the back
I’ll just need to invent mounting hardware as it didn’t come with hardware to mount in a Fj40. 
Or any for that matter.
Or any for that matter.
This could come in handy. 100% operational.
Never been on a 4x4.
Never been on a 4x4.
$340 CAD. Only seen light use… most on a trailer to load a tube frame buggy.