Builds Big Red Toy (13 Viewers)

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Any reason you didn't go with ARP studs? Or are you going to use them with 6-stud knuckles?
You could also look into the FROR keyed steering arms by the way.
I just paid taxes for the year, so I'm licking my wounds. I just needed to get it driveable for now. I'll go with ARP when I do the 6 shooter knuckles. I'm also looking around for aluminum wheels and newer tires to save weight. So lots of $$ about to be spent.
 
6 stud knuckles. OEM e head studs versus arp studs. Can someone try and prove to me how you'd break OEM studs before the arp studs? Is that really the weak link? If the studs are tight then there shouldn't be a failure there. Maybe this is my opinion since I have the stock motor?

Who here is breaking "properly torqued" and maintained knuckle studs?
 
I'm probably the wrong guy to ask, these are the first studs I've ever broken. I know Porsche mechanics rebuild Porsche engine with ARP studs because they will not fail. My Cummins head was redone with ARP studs when the second turbo was installed. So in my mind they are a good company and make good products. I rather go overkill with building this rig. Who knows, I may not have had this torqued correctly. Interested in what others have to say.
 
I say 37s are still the limit for yota axles and the Hummer wheels just put them over the top.
Get a used set of wheels and tires and save for a 1ton front to match the width of the 80 series axle out back.
I'm sure one of your Texas neighbors will let you try on a set, someone down there must be trying to sell a set of 37s on tundra wheels or something affordable for now.
 
With heavy wheels and tires, and/or ram assist, or large tires on their own with spacers, will break stock studs even when properly installed. If that were not true, why do 6-shooter knuckles exist? Why do keyed steering arms exist?

I understand questioning everything you see on the internet, but do some damn research. smh
 
Who has broken stock 6 studs versus arp's. That's my main question. Does the extra expense of hardened knuckle studs make sense? Do you really need grade 8 hardware on your truck when grade 5 'usually' works?

Since I am on 35's at the moment it would be nice to see where people are breaking most.
 
I don't believe anyone but the most extreme users break 6-shooters with OEM studs. I've never ran them, perhaps someone like @Cruiserdrew can weigh in on that. In researching big tires with toy axles I jumped ship and went with a Dana 60 in Moonshine. Much better strength for much less cost. I run recentered H1s like @The Phoenician, but as my wheeling tires, with 42s, and PVC inserts. They're heavy SOBs even without the runflats.

When you break a knuckle stud, it's never just one, and it's catastrophic. Having dealt with broken/ripped out studs on the trail a number of times in other people's trucks, I can confidently say that it's a pain in the balls having to get your truck out of the trails, or home for that matter, when your knuckle won't stay together. Upgrading to ARP studs, regardless of stock knuckles or 6-shooters, is a relatively cheap mod when you consider collateral damage from a stud break, not to mention towing bills.

IMHO, steering critical components, such as knuckle studs, are not a place to pinch pennies, especially when you're pushing the limits of the original design, like we tend to do.
 
Another reason to go SOA is to get Lee's drone out of a tree.

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Picked up five of these Toyo tires. 37x13.5x17. Looking at the pro comp 69 series black wheels.

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A little side by side. Looks like I've been running small 37s.

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I should have wheels by next weekend.
 
I’ve heard those Toyos are heavy but they’ll probably be lighter then what you have now and quieter. Looking forward to hearing what you think as I’ve been looking into tires recently.
 
They seem heavy, but will definitely be lighter since I won't run runflats or steel wheels with them. I heard they are loud, but doubt I'll hear them over the engine. I couldn't pass it up, 5 tires for $600.
 
That is a good deal. Also on the heights remember your current tires are loaded with the weight of the truck and those Toyo's are unmounted with zero load so they will likely be close to the same height when loaded.
 
I got my tires and wheels mounted yesterday. The difference is instantly noticeable. It's faster off the line, the steering is much lighter to the point where I'm not confident to take my hands off the steering wheel at all. Even the EGTs look to be lower, about 100* for roughly the same speed with the steel tires. I drove it with the family for roughly 60 miles, I can tell it's much much more alive than the Tacoma. Interested in seeing what mpg gains there are. All things being equal I think going from steel to aluminum wheels is a 40% reduction in weight. It was easy to lift the spare wheel and mounted on the swing arm, so overall pretty happy so far. Still entertaining the idea of a 6 shooter knuckle and maybe even a tundra brake upgrade. It doesn't need it, but why not?


I really enjoyed being able to put a tire on the roof rack on the tacoma. It was sturdy and reminded me of times in Africa.
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Here are the new wheels. AR172 Baja in Satin Black. The Pro Comps I was looking at were discontinued so these were the next best thing. They say American Racing, but I suspect they are made in China.
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I don't recommend this to anyone unless they absolutely must. I could not break the lug nut loose no matter how much force or penetration oil I added. I was pressed for time so I used the floor jack to turn it. I thought I would sheer the bolt, but luckily I did not. As you learn in interrogation school, leverage is everything.

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This is what it looks like. Did not use the center caps for the rear wheels, I prefer this look and it's functional for field repairs.

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After the rains. It's a wider tire which means airing down won't be as necessary unless it's tough terrain. It does really well on highway speeds.
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Glad to hear you had such positive results. There's about a dozen sets of Toyo 37x12.5 in varying condition in the $5-600 for sale locally here I've been eyeballing.
 
Glad to hear you had such positive results. There's about a dozen sets of Toyo 37x12.5 in varying condition in the $5-600 for sale locally here I've been eyeballing.
I got the 37 x 13.5 so the 37 x 12.5 should feel even lighter.
 

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