Big Gay 2F Build Tech (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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Coolerman
SILVER Star
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2004
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- Paint Lick, KY
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Well I guess it looks better than this.... 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,165
You
Are
Gay...
(trust me, I know these things....)
__________________
I am kinda gay.......
I.....think...........he..................is, er, I mean he does know
Ed
Posts: 8,165
You
Are
Gay...
(trust me, I know these things....)
__________________
I am kinda gay.......
I.....think...........he..................is, er, I mean he does know
Ed
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2005
- Threads
- 38
- Messages
- 1,824
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
- Website
- www.projektenterprises.com
Thisss thhhread is sthhhhuper! 
- Thread starter
- #66
Getting gayer by the minute.
Talked with another MUD member who has gone through the whole modded 2f thing. He recommended to get it balanced. I think I will take his advice and do it. Will be interesting in seeing how far it was off.
Also decided to keep the original Distributor and mod it to work with the TBI computer. Now that I have read everything I can it doesn't look that hard.
Talked with another MUD member who has gone through the whole modded 2f thing. He recommended to get it balanced. I think I will take his advice and do it. Will be interesting in seeing how far it was off.
Also decided to keep the original Distributor and mod it to work with the TBI computer. Now that I have read everything I can it doesn't look that hard.
- Thread starter
- #67
I've gone back and looked at what I got a while back. Looks like most of it is crap. I even hate the TBI adapter plate. From what I can tell the only thing of use is the coil the TBI and the computer though I have yet to open it up and make sure it's the right model. Crossing fingers.
do the flywheel as well.
These things weren't balanced well from the factory. Mine is earlier than yours but needed some BIG chunks taken out to balance it. I don't know what the weights were (but wish I did...)
You should be really pleased with a balanced engine. Have you ever seen/heard/driven a good rebuild with a balanced assembly?
I know my F purrs like a kitten and will pull strong while lugging over rocks @ 400-500 rpm
I attribute a LOT of that to the balancing.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
do the flywheel as well.
These things weren't balanced well from the factory. Mine is earlier than yours but needed some BIG chunks taken out to balance it. I don't know what the weights were (but wish I did...)
You should be really pleased with a balanced engine. Have you ever seen/heard/driven a good rebuild with a balanced assembly?
I know my F purrs like a kitten and will pull strong while lugging over rocks @ 400-500 rpm
Same here, in-fact mines so quite at tick over its hard to tell its even running.
- Thread starter
- #70
Lower end dissasembly and inspection. Some issues.
Finally started ripping into the lower end.
Video of the lifters coming out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq_O9raUfOg
Lifters. Didn't look that bad. Noticed some pitting. Will surfacing them resolve this or should I just get a new set?
My method of taking the oil pan off.
Finally started ripping into the lower end.
Video of the lifters coming out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qq_O9raUfOg
Lifters. Didn't look that bad. Noticed some pitting. Will surfacing them resolve this or should I just get a new set?
My method of taking the oil pan off.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #71
Pistons are another story. Slight wear on one side of all of them. #1 is the one that has me worried. Should I buy one piston or do I have to buy a set. Does it look bad? I can feel the groves but they are not bad. What would you do?
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
Rod bearing look a little worn. I have never seen an oil passage look like this. Any ideas on how this is caused?
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
Rod bearing look a little worn. I have never seen an oil passage look like this. Any ideas on how this is caused?
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #72
Oilpan and rotating the crank video/
Note: Video doesn't show the 15 min of me beating around the gasket with a thin putty knife.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPF25eKR8ds
Oil Pump removal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHcbQ4-6EeU
Piston removal. Note to self. Place hand under piston when knocking them out. Otherwise you will drop it in the giant pot of oil that you were to lazy to dump.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avmp27e_too
Note: Video doesn't show the 15 min of me beating around the gasket with a thin putty knife.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPF25eKR8ds
Oil Pump removal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHcbQ4-6EeU
Piston removal. Note to self. Place hand under piston when knocking them out. Otherwise you will drop it in the giant pot of oil that you were to lazy to dump.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avmp27e_too
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Lifters are done once there is any pitting. I had a hard time finding any that didn't look like that. I finally found 11 decent ones to resurface and had to buy one from Toyota for $35.
Those bearings look done too. It possibly looks like poor oil PH eroded? I don't know what else would erode (or corrode) the bearings like that. They are very suceptable to corroding, bearings for aircraft piston engines can get fingerprints correded into them from touching with bare hands. Mark W might have more on this?
As for the pistons, I would run them unless you plan on oversizing the bores or if you can find new ones for the same bore. When I rebuilt my engine the machine shop recomended replacing them because of the scuffing similar to yours. They were domed pistons and all that they could find was 040 over flat tops. I was on a time constraint and have regretted it ever since, the compression ratio would be significantly higher. I have my serious doubts about the shop that did most of the work though, they switched the block with a later model so I don't know what to believe. The one I took in had a oil press sender on the d/s, the one I took home didn't. I wonder if the pistons and bores were good to begin with. Its a long story.
Those bearings look done too. It possibly looks like poor oil PH eroded? I don't know what else would erode (or corrode) the bearings like that. They are very suceptable to corroding, bearings for aircraft piston engines can get fingerprints correded into them from touching with bare hands. Mark W might have more on this?
As for the pistons, I would run them unless you plan on oversizing the bores or if you can find new ones for the same bore. When I rebuilt my engine the machine shop recomended replacing them because of the scuffing similar to yours. They were domed pistons and all that they could find was 040 over flat tops. I was on a time constraint and have regretted it ever since, the compression ratio would be significantly higher. I have my serious doubts about the shop that did most of the work though, they switched the block with a later model so I don't know what to believe. The one I took in had a oil press sender on the d/s, the one I took home didn't. I wonder if the pistons and bores were good to begin with. Its a long story.
So you stood by on the sideline and watched this take place and didn't pitch a bitch? s***!
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Those pistons are scrap metal...
- Thread starter
- #77
I don't know if I can take the advice of a Touareg owner.
And yes I'm smiling while giving you the finger.lol
your repeating history, go back to post #7
Oh, I pitched a bitch! They did send a piston home with me to prove they were scrap, but I think he wanted the block with good bores and punched out a block that was worn out...
- Thread starter
- #80
You sir are a smart man.
So I guess I'll be buying new pistons and boring it out. Might as well. SO what size pistons should I go with and where is a good reasonable source?