Big Gay 2F Build Tech (1 Viewer)

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Any updates on where your machine shop is going to get pistons from?

:flamingo:
Flamingos are gay right?
<<<<Some are...............some not:D


The machine shop I used sourced a set from Federal Mogul, but Sealed Power also makes pistons for the 2F. Those are just two brands, but there are probably several.

Ed

Rockauto.com sells the Sealed Power :beer:
 
Sealed Power and Federal Mogul are one in the same.....
 
Sealed Power and Federal Mogul are one in the same.....

Thanks for the spanking:flipoff2: Just trying to help, and I didn't see you jumping in;)


Ed:beer:

In truth there are probably several names an many fewer actual manufacturers...as is the case nowadays.:mad:
 
Hmmm. Have yet to get any as I've been in the process of getting an 80 series. Block is still on the engine stand. Hoping to get it to them this week though.
 
Marshall, let the machine shop bore gauge the cylinders and order the pistons, just my .02. The more they do, the more they will back up. Just use a reputable shop and let them go to whatever extent you want. A good shop will want to do their own measuring and order the parts, especially pistons, before boring the cylinders. I also had my shop install the cam bearings, but I procured and installed the cam. I took the head apart, let them cut the seats, I had the valves reground.

GL

Ed
 
Troll, did you decide on what pistons to use yet?

I'm getting ready to take my disassembled engine to the machine shop, and have been following your thread closely -- but you've got me with the cliff hanger!

Also, if you don't mind, what were your thoughts when choosing a RV cam, instead of a stock grind? Just curious. :confused:

Mine will be in a '85 FJ60 5spd.


S.
 
Troll, did you decide on what pistons to use yet?

I'm getting ready to take my disassembled engine to the machine shop, and have been following your thread closely -- but you've got me with the cliff hanger!

Also, if you don't mind, what were your thoughts when choosing a RV cam, instead of a stock grind? Just curious. :confused:

Mine will be in a '85 FJ60 5spd.


S.

Well I know. It sucks having this thing sit in the garage. I have two issues. One machine shop that doesn't do balancing will take it with the crank in it and save me the trouble of taking the pully off the front.

The one that does the balancing said they need it completely apart. Go figure. Have a club member with a socket and a puller but he is 45 min one way from me. It looks like it might be this weekend before I can get it and monday before I figure out how I get that big iron bastard on the hitch and haul without a lift since the hoist was borrowed.

Also on the TBI. I have done a few things.

I have ordered the pedal and Linkage from Downey. They are a really great group of people to work with.

Pedal and linkage was $126.97

Jim makes a hard sell on why you need a knock sensor and VSS. From my findings I have yet to find someone who doesn't have it that has had issues. They have been prompt in calling me back and going through my issues.
 
Wire in the knock. It made a big difference for me, much more power. It didn't run bad befor but I sure notice a difference. I think it will give you a code too.
 
Small block Chevy valve springs go right in place of the stock 2f springs. When I tested mine on a Rimac (valve spring checker) they were like 25lbs closed and 45-50 lbs open. STOCK small block chevy springs off an old head laying in my backyard with rust on them were like 45-55 closed and 70-ish open IIRC.....

What kind of sbc head did those springs come off of? I am in need of information on better spring options after coil binding my stock 2F springs with a head mil and rv cam.

But it takes more effort from the engine to move heavier springs right? I've heard you lose a little hp running higher pressure springs.....
 
A little update

Finally after 2 days of heating beating and PB blasting I finally got the crank nut off. Not an easy task when it's on an engine stand because you cannot throw all your weight(without screwing up the stand. My crappy impact wrench sucked also. 175lbs just aint gonna cut it. Went out and bought an Aircat with 640lbs of torque.
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Still didn't budge.
Wedged a brass hammer inbetween the crank and the engine block and braced the front of the engine and used a 3ft cheater bar and it finally came off. Puller got the pully off with no problems.

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Once that was off I took the timing cover off. Noticed I had the dampner style cranshaft gear. Also noticed it was cracked and seperated in several places. So I'll be spend some time looking for a solid steel one.

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Crank pulley key looked good.
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So much easier to take those nuts off while in the frame with the starter motor...
 
Now on to the lifters that I got from CCOT

All but one are the same. WHich kind of pisses me off. I'm hoping they will exchange it. The one that came in the two piece box but has the same part # on it looks like a much better quality lifter. I wish I had 11 more of those. But something tells me they are old stock.

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One on the left is the only one that looked like it did.
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And I really don't like the tops of the 11 I got. The One on the left looks a heck of a lot better. I'm hoping to get 11 like what is on the left. We shall see.

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Is it possible the one on the right has a hardened insert?
 
good thread, and pictures
 
Now on to the lifters that I got from CCOT

All but one are the same. WHich kind of pisses me off. I'm hoping they will exchange it. The one that came in the two piece box but has the same part # on it looks like a much better quality lifter. I wish I had 11 more of those. But something tells me they are old stock.

DSC08238.JPG

But hey, you got your free zip ties with your order though :D

Good to hear they were cool about the exchange.
 

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