Yes, It does fit without the need to deflate.
BFG KO2 285/75r17
- Thread starter Taco2Cruiser
- Start date
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285/75/17 KO2's are perfect
I went through this thread and others thoroughly before deciding to go with 285/75/17 KO2's and I'm so glad I did. I know everyone says that they are not good for stock suspension but I wanted to test this out prior to my lift. So far, all I've done is remove mud flaps and push the liner forward. No cutting at all and I only have a slight kiss on KDSS.
My theory is that
1) alignment has a lot to do with it since some are reporting issues and others are not.
2) KO2's are significantly more tapered than other tire options like the Nittos which are more squared off. This helps them fit better and not rub. The obvious downside being a smaller contact patch reducing braking and handling capabilities on pavement.
I went through this thread and others thoroughly before deciding to go with 285/75/17 KO2's and I'm so glad I did. I know everyone says that they are not good for stock suspension but I wanted to test this out prior to my lift. So far, all I've done is remove mud flaps and push the liner forward. No cutting at all and I only have a slight kiss on KDSS.
My theory is that
1) alignment has a lot to do with it since some are reporting issues and others are not.
2) KO2's are significantly more tapered than other tire options like the Nittos which are more squared off. This helps them fit better and not rub. The obvious downside being a smaller contact patch reducing braking and handling capabilities on pavement.
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Is there enough extra space that a marginally taller tire would still fit? Asking because BFGs are notoriously undersized relative to the same size from another manufacturer. I am running Toyo AT2 and am hoping to squeeze my spare up there still. I'd check for myself, but I don't have a spare in that size yet.
*EDIT* I see in this thread that @TexAZ mentioned that a 295/70r18 fits in the stock location with little a modification, so that should mean I'm clear.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Spare location is a little easier to measure... but when it comes to fitting in front...
“Should be” and “is” is always frustratingly questionable when it comes to published spec size vs actual mounted dimensions at the corners, etc. Tbrow in alignment, and other factors and it’s a forever source of ??? and
...
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No margin for error there! Thank you, that helps a lot.
Anyone know what the actual tread width of 285/75/17 Ridge grappler is? The same size in KO2 is 9.4” at 4.5lbs per tire less. Not bad
Markuson
SILVER Star
flattread touching street, barely 9 to 9 1/2
Sidewall to fat sidewall mounted puffs out to 11 1/2
Aired down contact get Huge and sidewall tread turns into grab.
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Thanks! It’s pretty much the same tread width as the KO2. I’m torn on which one to get as the KO2 is about 5lbs lighter per tire.The cooper at3 xlt is also tempting and even lighter than the KO2 and looks like a solid tire.
Have you measured the actual height of your RG?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #191
285/75r17 KO2 on Rock Warriors compared to 285/75r17 Ridge Grapplers on Evos. Both with 5,000 miles on them under a 200. Both inflated to 37 psi (per @gaijin... never question gaijin!)
Both are 32.63" tall when mounted on the recommended 8" rim, under the the same 200's weight according to one of Bud's lasers. When mounted on the rim, inflated to max pressure, but not under the weight of a truck, they do hit the 33.9" advertised height (where that number comes from).
Below is the KO2.
Below is the Ridge Grappler
KO2s with Rock Warriors: 86 pounds
Ridge Grapplers with Evos: 94 pounds (Evos are lighter than any of the Methods, Icons, or really whatever else is popular I've seen come through the shop)
Both are 32.63" tall when mounted on the recommended 8" rim, under the the same 200's weight according to one of Bud's lasers. When mounted on the rim, inflated to max pressure, but not under the weight of a truck, they do hit the 33.9" advertised height (where that number comes from).
Below is the KO2.
Below is the Ridge Grappler
KO2s with Rock Warriors: 86 pounds
Ridge Grapplers with Evos: 94 pounds (Evos are lighter than any of the Methods, Icons, or really whatever else is popular I've seen come through the shop)
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Thanks for the photos and information comparison. Keep in mind the Nitto does weigh about 5lbs more as well. 17” ICON rebound weighs 27lbs and combined with a KO2 in 285-75/17 is total 88lbs or 93lbs with the RG.
I believe my 18” method Con6 +18 wheel weighs around 37lbs and surprisingly my 35x12.50r18KO2 only weighs 64lbs.,making my current setup 101lbs per wheel.(heavy) no wonder the 200 struggles a little.
Do you believe it’s worth it for me to drop down to a 17” ICON and 285/75/17 RG to save roughly 8lbs per tire? If I went with a Cooper AT3 XLT it would shave off another 6lbs per tire or should i just drop my current tires down to a 295/70/18 and not switch out my wheels.
My goal is to reduce wear and tear on wheel bearings, etc. If shaving 8lbs per tire isn’t going to make much difference and not worth the cost, i could just drop to the 295/70/18 Cooper XLT as it weighs 59lbs which reduces my tire weight by 5lbs vs current setup
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
- Thread starter
- #193
I doubt you will be replacing wheel bearing or steering links sooner than 120k regardless of any of those wheel/tire selections. The size of a 200 series components are considerably larger than that of the GX/4Runner/Tacoma parts and those handle larger tires and more non sense drivers than you will subject your 200 to. In the end, you’ll have a wheel bearing (most likely) fail due to a seal failure and let dirt in before you’ll damage it from unsprung weight.
Alright, I must be in a similar boat to most that have tried this setup. I have the basic 2.0" OME NitroCharger front lift with SPC upper control arms, 0.75" rear lift. Rock warrior wheels and installed 285/75-17 BFG KO2's. I had alignment done the same day as the lift. It's well in spec and drives beautifully. From reading many hours worth of posts here I expected the mud flap rubbing issue and the need to push the fender liner forward. I also have the slightest rub on the KDSS bar on the drivers side. You can't hear it or feel it but missing dirt is evidence. Those issues did not surprise me. I must have somehow missed rubbing issues on the passenger side sway bar. It's serious enough you can feel it and hear it at full lock. Am I missing something? Did I do something wrong? I expect wheel spacers would fix the rubbing issue on the sway bar but am I asking for more trouble?
I understand that going down one size to 285/70-17 that Toyota approved is the easy answer and that's not completely out of the question. From wheeling in SW Colorado my whole life and finally joining the LC family I've always wanted to fit these specific tires so that am willing to do some more work. I am not set on this at all costs. The rig must be as dependable as possible and I will not accept permanent rubbing issues.
Hoping I don't get flamed too much for a topic that has been discussed here a lot.
I understand that going down one size to 285/70-17 that Toyota approved is the easy answer and that's not completely out of the question. From wheeling in SW Colorado my whole life and finally joining the LC family I've always wanted to fit these specific tires so that am willing to do some more work. I am not set on this at all costs. The rig must be as dependable as possible and I will not accept permanent rubbing issues.
Hoping I don't get flamed too much for a topic that has been discussed here a lot.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
isn't it 285mm?
Thought RG was 11.26”-11.5” width
gaijin
GOLD Star
I'm really old school about this.
I run a stock 2013 LC200 with the 17" TRD wheels and LT285/70R17 tires as recommended by Toyota. I am confident - and have experienced so far - that there is no road or trail condition I can put myself into that will result in any rubbing. In fact, the truck feels like it was built for this tire/wheel combination.
Wheel spacers are nothing more than an additional, potential source of trouble. Seems to me like putting spacers on is purposely adding a weak link to an otherwise robust suspension system.
Suspension mods like yours are great if they meet your requirements, but will not buy you any more tire clearance, just additional body ground clearance.
And now the opinion that does nothing but attract derision and criticism - the LT285/70R17 tires are plenty big enough. Any additional tire size just adds weight, hinders on-road performance (e.g. acceleration, braking, maneuvering) with little added ground clearance - not to mention the rubbing issues you are experiencing.
Hey, you asked
And just because a post can never have too many pics:
And I can say about my rig, as you stated, " The rig must be as dependable as possible and I will not accept permanent rubbing issues."
HTH
I think you should be able to fix this as some others run your same setup and don't have the issue.
It will help a bit if your alignment shop reduces the caster, which will set your tire a bit further back in the wheel well. So if you're at the top end (~3-3.5 degrees) getting it down to ~2.5 degrees may help. You have to be careful because you run the risk of hitting the mud flap mount or the body mount f you go too far back though. Also less caster means a bit less highway stability as more caster generally means the vehicle tracks straight with less effort.
I rub on those spots too with caster set slightly above spec (about 3.8 degrees), and I have +25 offset wheels which stick out 1" further than yours. Same 285/75R17 tire size, though mine are Nitto Ridge Grapplers. You could run spacers but then you get all the fun of dealing with those.
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I'm assuming wouldn't want to install Tundra suspensions parts, since you just bought LC specific lift parts. The Tundra components will space your tires out 1.5" per side, which might fix your rubbing issues.
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I run the same wheels/tires in my stock suspension 2014, and I definitely have rub at full lock (to the right) when backing in to my driveway. That's the only time I've ever noticed it, and it's so minor, I've ignored it. You can see the extent of the damage of a few k miles over the last 10 months.
