You won't need a cradle (carrier with handles you are seeing with some listings) because you are mounting directly to your bumper. Cradles make it easier to take a winch on and off or mount to a trailer hitch receiver. You can re-sell the cradle if your winch comes with one.
The roller thing is called a fairlead, and yes you will need some kind of fairlead and that fairlead will mount to the front of your bumper. Roller fairleads are the classic old style and work great. Hawse fairleads have smooth edges for the cable or synthetic rope to run over and are lighter, lower profile, and higher friction. Aluminum hawse fairleads are not recommended for steel cable because the cable will damage them over time.
A remote solenoid refers to the black control box that is separate from the winch drum and body. The shortbus is designed very tight to the grill to maximize approach angle minimize weight but it means that integrated solenoids in the big bridge-looking aluminum housing as part of the winch body don't fit.
Don't worry about a ratty looking steel cable, the cable won't lay tight and clean on a winch that isn't mounted because it needs tension to stay neatly spooled, and cables are a wear item that needs replacing if they get kinked or frayed or otherwise damaged anyway. If you find a good winch with a damaged cable just factor the cost of a new cable into the purchase price.
A bit more on cables. Steel cable is much more durable and if it doesn't have visual damage it's likely perfectly good even if it's 50 years old. Because of it's durability, steel cable is unlikely to break even if you abuse it by winching with the cable running over rocks. When steel cable does break though it is extremely dangerous and can literally cut a person in half because it stretches under load and then all of that elastic energy turns into kinetic energy in a whipping steel cable. Steel cable is also hard to handle because it is very stiff and dangerous to handle if there is a single broken strand because a strand is sharp like a fish hook and can slice your hand open. Synthetic rope is sensitive to UV light exposure and abrasion and is easily damaged by running it over rocks or using it with dirt and dried mud embedded in the cable braid. Synthetic rope is much easier to handle and stretches much less than steel cable under load so when it breaks it is much less dangerous. An old timer once told me that steel cable is much more dangerous when it breaks but synthetic rope is much more likely to break from misuse or age. That same old timer pointed out to me that even though the synthetic rope itself is not likely to kill you when it breaks, if the vehicle that's hanging off the end of the winch line falls down a mountain when the rope breaks that can also kill people. Synthetic rope is lighter, safer and easier to handle, and less likely to cut people in half when it brakes, but it needs to be taken care of and replaced periodically. If you're shopping for older winches they are more likely to have steel cable on them. If the cable passes visual inspection it's perfectly good and you can use it, if the steel cable is damaged or you want to replace it for any reason you can replace it with new steel cable or convert to synthetic rope.
I mounted my shortbus before mounting my 9.5XP but then the winch wouldn't drop into place past the grill, I opted for disassembling the winch slightly and carefully fishing the parts into place and then reassembling, but in hindsight I would recommend installing the winch in the bumper and then installing the bumper on the truck.
The main thing you are looking for is a winch that hasn't been stored full of water. These older design Warn winches are not fully sealed, they have a drain hole in the motor housing that needs to be mounted in the down position so that if the winch gets submerged the water can drain out. Some bumpers require that a winch be mounted feet-forward, the shortbus requires that the winch be mounted feet-down. Mid-frame warn winches have a drain hole setup for the feet-down position by default but if the winch was mounted feet-forward without unplugging the appropriate drain hole they can collect water and damage the motor.
I went to use my winch the other day, pulled the line out and hooked up and began to run it back in and it worked pulling up the slack for a few seconds and then I stopped to make sure it did not get to hot. Then it would not start back up again. It clicks like the silinoids are engaging but the drum does not turn in either direction. I kept trying to get it to work and only one time it started to turn for a second and then nothing after that. What do I need to replace, both of those silinoids or is something else going on? O made sure the voltage and current source was enough and there...
Visually inspect the drain hole for rusty water stains before purchase and test that the motor spins in both in and out directions if you can. Jumper cables to a car battery or a jump starter box is all you need to confirm that the motor spins.
You can likely find an old M8000 for cheap and that is a good classic Warn winch, but a bit undersized for an 80 series especially if you expect to get stuck in deep mud. The suction from being stuck in mud can make for very high winch recovery forces, and an M8000 is totally adequate to recover an 80 mired in deep mud with proper use of snatch blocks, but if you're not planning to get stuck in the mud you might not have your snatch blocks with you, or you might not have enough winch line to reach a winching anchor after using one or two snatch blocks meaning you may need winch extensions in addition.
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