Best tool to cut metal angles (1 Viewer)

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Got to get out and play again today. I thought replacing the tow hooks on my LC would be an easy project. I cut up a piece of 1/2" angle, this saw did a good job.
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Then I attempted to cut with a 50 amp plasma cutter.
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No good, I then tried my cutting torch
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That didn't work so well so I ended up using a combination of the angle grinder and SWAG portaband.
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This produced a pretty good cut. I rounded the end with a grinder. I then tried to figure out how to cut the oblong hole in the center of the tow point. I tried a jigsaw, but that was a joke. I practiced piercing 1/2" plate and cutting with my Victor torch
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This is what I ended up with. I can't believe how little I got done today. I feel like I am learning and this is the only way to do it. There is no substitute for time spent in the shop. I think I am going to have to throw one of these away. I cut the hole a little close to the edge with my cutting torch.
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It's refreshing to read about real work where things don't always go perfectly the first time unlike what Youtube etc would have us believe. Good for you!
And beautiful cuts indeed.

Is there a reason you made those holes oblong? I guess the originals are for special tie down hooks on the ships but there is no need to do that for a shackle, I imagine. Couldn't you just have drilled the holes? Might have saved you some aggravation.
 
I agree, I thought about that after I was beating my head against the wall. I think I will get out my shackles tomorrow and see what size they are. I did have to buy a 9/16" bit today for the frame mounting holes.
 
Holes like that I cut the ends with a hole saw and then, usually, hacksaw between the two hole saw holes.

But I agree, for use with shackles a round hole is the better idea. When it comes to big holes like that I prefer hole saws to big twist drills.
 
How do you get a hacksaw in there with it being in the center of the piece? Do you just remove the blade and reattach, saw and remove?
 
Yep, partially remove blade, insert loose end thru hole, re-attach.

Or just go get the sawzall........
:)
 
you may want to get a carbide burr cuz with a file you'll be in there for a while.
 
Carbide burrs are hugely helpful, but suit-up!! Every single metal in the eyes event that I've had to see a Doc about was from a burr. Full sleaves, gloves, welding hat, safety glasses, face shield is almost enough. Blow yourself off thoroughly afterwards. My first such visit was with safety glasses only. One of the slivers ended up in my hair (I think) and while I was sleeping manged to get into my eye. Woke up with my eye glued shut. Second one I watched it fly up and felt it hit me in the eyebrow, then watched it bounce off the INSIDE of the safety glass lens and into my eye. argh!
 
Amen! Carbide burrs cut steel like butta but the slivers are evil. If you don’t get them all vacuumed up, you will keep finding them under your skin.
 
I just got from Home Depot and bought their Milwaukee Made in the USA Hole Dozer set. I should be able to cut a nice 3/4" hole in the middle of the new hook. Sounds easier than burrs in the eye. I have all the safety gear and I am religious about using safety glasses and the goggles too.
 
Those are useful, but there are better ways to do the job. The new breed of cut-off wheels made from metal are worth the price of admittance. However, when possible I'd rather use a saw to cut metal.
 
4.5" inch grinder with 6" cutoff wheels, end of story.

Putting a 6" wheel in a 4.5" grinder is a great opportunity to really get hurt. No thanks.

I worked with a guy once that had to cut an opening in a piece of plywood in a wall, but he couldn't get a circular saw to work. Rather than get the right tool, he put the 7-1/4" blade on a grinder and proceeded to start cutting. Yup, blade bound up, bounced out, right across his knee cap. He was off work for months, several surgeries, and I bet he still walks with a limp.
 
I'll bet it works well enough even though I'm sure that it works the motor harder than it was designed for, but there are better options for most situations.
 
Yeah, I'll stick to a saw when at all possible.
 
I don't think I will ever want to put a bigger cutoff wheel on a grinder. For one thing, I suspect that the typical bigger wheels have a lower rpm rating than the little 4.5" ones. The corded 4.5" grinders run probably well over 10,000 rpm (although less for cordless probably). If you put a larger wheel on an overly fast grinder, the peripheral speeds will be higher than intended and the wheel could shatter just from the centrifugal forces. Would not want to be nearby, let alone right there.
 
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