Best strategy to get this working?

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red66toy

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This is frozen, how can I free it up to working condition. Just lots of penetrant oil?
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Also, can these valves be rebuilt? The threaded rod was bent but has since been straightened out. The threads look bad. The end knob has seen better days :
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Also just noticed I’m missing the counter weight. Anyone source an alternative?
 
For the manifold heat valve, I would build a de-rust electrolysis tank to hold it. I have freed many things that were solid blocks of rust using this method.

I also cleaned up my heater valve using this method. You can run a die over the damaged threads to clean them up. I remember taking the valve apart and cleaning the inside after the de-rust tank but for the life of me cannot find the pics I took of the inside of the valve.
 
For the manifold heat valve, I would build a de-rust electrolysis tank to hold it. I have freed many things that were solid blocks of rust using this method.

I also cleaned up my heater valve using this method. You can run a die over the damaged threads to clean them up. I remember taking the valve apart and cleaning the inside after the de-rust tank but for the life of me cannot find the pics I took of the inside of the valve.

Thank you for the great advice! I totally forgot about this option! I actually used a big home made electrolysis bath to de-rust the seat back on my FJ62. Time to remake it. :) Thanks again and I'll post up pics of the results. :cheers:
 
So I've bought two of these valves, which will make three (of sorts) in my possession. The first one bought is from SOR, used. Didn't work, frozen stuck (closed). Somebody didn't inspect it, just packed it. Upon soaking in a myriad of chemicals it remained stuck, and is now pretty much destroyed by me in trying to get it apart - the part that screws into the steel body is brass, very soft and doesn't take a wrench very well. The shaft is also brass, soft and easily bendable. Not a good day for Toyota's design department. So that was $50 in the trash - lesson learned not to buy used parts from SOR anymore, though I had good success in the past IIRC. Good news is I salvaged the twist thingy on the end for aiding in opening/closing. Second purchased one is actually still in route - looks complete but rusty. We'll see if I can make it functional. The third one on hand is the one that was on the engine, and it was frozen as well. It was missing the twist thingy, which of course I now have one from SOR that only cost $50. I've managed to get it disassembled, and maybe functional. There is a seal of some sort inside that appeared to be something like wrapped fibers. It was toast. I replaced it with a thick rubber washer from a multi-rubber washer kit. I redid the threads on the shaft as well as the brass plug it screws into with a tap/die (6x1.0), and the shaft goes in and out reasonably well. When closed, no air passes, and when open and with the outlet plugged, no air escapes along the shaft. So I'm hoping this (or the one in route) will function and not leak after it's been subjected to hot coolant and time. Thesis over. Good luck with yours.
 
could the fibery seal you found maybe be old school plumbing oakum?
 

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