Best lift setup for 100 Series

[TheMcCannon]

This is for NON-AHC:
1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Shock Absorber 48511-69585 | Fred Anderson Toyota Parts
1998-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser Shock Absorber 48531-69835 | Fred Anderson Toyota Parts

Fred Anderson probably doesn't have the lowest price on these but its local to me. I assume these are correct but someone tell me if I'm off.

 

[nitteo]

Looks like I had written down here (after more searching today) that I might want to look into doing OEM replacement shocks, OME 2865s in the rear, cranked TBs up front, and then 275/70/R18s when its time for new tires.

looking back, this is what I shouldve done. way cheaper than the ironman kit i just put on (without the TB)

I'm running Ironman Foam Cell Pro's all around, OME 2864's, and stock torsion bars (I've had Ironman TB's sitting in my garage since 2017... will install if I ever put on a bumper/winch). I have no complaints towing or wheeling with this setup.

The 864's would probably be on the stiff side if I didn't have the weight of the rear bumper with spare, hi lift, and full drawer system. Without that weight I would go with the 863J instead.

did you upgrade your UCAs? diff drop?

 

[reznunt]

did you upgrade your UCAs? diff drop?

Yes, Slee diff drop, TC UCA's, custom rear links

 

[l3n0x]

looking back, this is what I shouldve done. way cheaper than the ironman kit i just put on (without the TB)



did you upgrade your UCAs? diff drop?

But the TB's are pretty expensive from Toyota. You need to buy the shock mounting hardware as well, which adds to the price. Actually in Europe the Ironman kit (with the FCP shocks) costs only about $200 more than converting from AHC to non AHC with new Toyota parts. And as much as the OEM setup gives a comfortable onroad ride, something tells me the FCP's perform better on an offroadish tourer, when you're pushing it all day through rough terrain at speed.
Either way suspension is always a compromise. What you gain onroad comfort wise, you loose offroad with the affordable range components. Then there are the expensive adjustable shocks, and custom valve jobs, which can be good for both worlds, but cost a lot. Maybe the Tough Dog adjustables are somewhat an exception, because they're not insane money and can be adjusted some depending on the terrain you're on.

That said, if we're not talking about a conversion, but one already has the Toyota TB's, then the Toyota shocks & OME rear springs are the way to go for sure cost/benefit wise.

 

[smartparts]

I just had ironman FCP installed on mine. Went from AHC to Ironman FCP and wow, the ride is absolutly amazing. I think it rides even better than when I had working AHC. Very happy to go with that setup. I was worried about OME being to stiff.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Thanks, I heard OME is a stiff ride, is Ironman pro foams stiff as well? Or would it be a lot smoother more like stock ride?

My OME heavy is all good after installing all the camping junk. Mine is actually a bit soft. But I would get rid of all that leveling garbage in an Lexus.

 

[implayaz9]

Has anyone had any experience with Icon stage 1 shocks? are they stiff or ok compared to OME?

I am getting a deal on them so wondering.

 

[JRsLC100]

"daily driver with the occasional off-roading"

Crank the T-Bars, lift spacers in the rear, and new OEM shocks all around. Not only is it the cheapest, it is by far the most comfortable ride. If I didn't tow I'd go back to this setup in a heartbeat.

Think 35’s would work by just doing this?

 

[reznunt]

Think 35’s would work by just doing this?

Yes. I ran 35's from the start. A little trimming of the plastic liner will help rubbing. Your wheel offset will determine if you rub the frame rail or other things. The pinch weld mod will help when you stuff the tires off road. You can also look into extending the bump stops to limit uptravel a bit.

In my avatar pic, I was running 35's on stock shocks, cranked Tbars, and rear spacers.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

"daily driver with the occasional off-roading"

Crank the T-Bars, lift spacers in the rear, and new OEM shocks all around. Not only is it the cheapest, it is by far the most comfortable ride. If I didn't tow I'd go back to this setup in a heartbeat.

▲This would be my go to second choice having BTDT.
My first choice would be the keeping the AHC for the best ride, handling, and looks.

 

[booradley]

I have Ironman torsion bars and FCPs. Had 865 springs until last month, when I went with 866 due to added weight. Nice ride, firm but will not rattle teeth. I like it so much I will be putting the exact setup in my other one this fall.

 

[JRsLC100]

Yes. I ran 35's from the start. A little trimming of the plastic liner will help rubbing. Your wheel offset will determine if you rub the frame rail or other things. The pinch weld mod will help when you stuff the tires off road. You can also look into extending the bump stops to limit uptravel a bit.

In my avatar pic, I was running 35's on stock shocks, cranked Tbars, and rear spacers.

So those are 35's in your avatar pic? Thank you for the response btw. Have you had any issues with anything since you put the 35's on? How hard core do you wheel you 100?

 

[reznunt]

So those are 35's in your avatar pic? Thank you for the response btw. Have you had any issues with anything since you put the 35's on? How hard core do you wheel you 100?

Yes, 35's. I haven't had any issues with 35's. I don't really wheel this truck too much harder than what's pictured. It'll take a beating but IMO a 100 is not the best choice for a crawler.

 

[implayaz9]

when lifting a rig, Is it necessary to add new front / rear sway bar links?

Also what about the upper and the lower control arms?

 

[Pucker5]

when lifting a rig, Is it necessary to add new front / rear sway bar links?

Also what about the upper and the lower control arms?

I think 2.5 is that grey area where you have proponents both way for things like control arm upgrade. The refresh on the control arm bushings is advised as a high mileage maintenance recommendation. a refresh of the rear sway bar bushings Will help reduce body roll when cornering and what not on the pavement

 

[AlpineAccess]

when lifting a rig, Is it necessary to add new front / rear sway bar links?

Also what about the upper and the lower control arms?

I would say doing the extended links is a good idea. I replaced all of my bushings with new stock bushings without extending, and it looks after just 5k I am working those bushings pretty hard.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I am running OME TB's and 2865's and brand new stock shocks. I have around 1.5-2" of lift and it was a great setup. The added the weight of the front bumper and winch has contributed to a little bit of dive on heavy braking but also has loaded the front end a bit more so roll has remained the same. I did a diff drop from Slee.

I am likely to add a rear bumper at some point, but for now the new OEM shocks are great.

I purchased mine from Camelback Toyota, but have ordered a few times from McGeorge and am finding their pricing more competitive the last few months.

 

[trdgolden]

"daily driver with the occasional off-roading"

Crank the T-Bars, lift spacers in the rear, and new OEM shocks all around. Not only is it the cheapest, it is by far the most comfortable ride. If I didn't tow I'd go back to this setup in a heartbeat.

Thinking about doing something similar. Mine is a 100% mall crawler. Would ride quality suffer if I added a ARB bumper in the front with a slee diff drop?

 

[OwnerCS]

Funny to see a shock recommendation thread from 2019. New products have been introduced since 2020.

Since 2020, Dobinsons IMS extended travel have become wildly popular. The MRR remote reservoir adjustable line has also been a good seller.

 

[cmw]

I am running OME TB's and 2865's and brand new stock shocks. I have around 1.5-2" of lift and it was a great setup. The added the weight of the front bumper and winch has contributed to a little bit of dive on heavy braking but also has loaded the front end a bit more so roll has remained the same. I did a diff drop from Slee.

I am likely to add a rear bumper at some point, but for now the new OEM shocks are great.

I purchased mine from Camelback Toyota, but have ordered a few times from McGeorge and am finding their pricing more competitive the last few months.

The first paragraph is one of the things I've been hoping to hear.

~Looking for 1.5" or so. At 315k my springs and torsion bars seem a little tired. It sits fairly nice unloaded, but the TBs are cranked and the height is only 18.75 in the front and 19.5 in the back.

The back drops noticeably with a couple of bikes hanging off the back.