Best carb for F engine (1 Viewer)

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Feb 6, 2022
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Colorado
Hey guys, I am looking for a new carb for my 1970 fj40 1F engine. I seem have have very bad luck with finding good carbs. Whats the best suggestion. Thanks.
 
Post in the classifieds and then order a rebuild kit and rebuild one yourself. Get a toyota manual and you`ll learn a lot. Ask questions here. If you're serious about owning and operating a 40, it's totally worth your time and effort to understand your stock carb.

If you don't have the time and have lots of money, then I guess buying a ready to bolt on unit is an option, but you`ll be missing out on some of the beauty of driving an old piece of machinery.
 
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Hey guys, I am looking for a new carb for my 1970 fj40 1F engine. I seem have have very bad luck with finding good carbs. Whats the best suggestion. Thanks.
Go fuel injected. The holly setups that many members here have switched to are easy to install and make life much easier. Now if you want to keep it stock for restoration purposes than by all means have a carb rebuilt by a pro.
 
Post in the classifieds and then order a rebuild kit and rebuild one yourself. Get a toyota manual and you`ll learn a lot. Ask questions here. If you're serious about owning and operating a 40, it's totally worth your time and effort to understand your stock carb.

If you don't have the time and have lots of money, then I guess buying a ready to bolt on unit is an option, but you`ll be missing out on some of the beauty of driving an old piece of machinery.


We sold the original carb which was mistake, but i will order a stock one. The chinese knock offs dont seem to be worth anything.
 
THIS.
Literally you have the easiest carb in the world to work on that engine. Get a stock one that has been rebuilt and you will not have any issues.

THIS.
Literally you have the easiest carb in the world to work on that engine. Get a stock one that has been rebuilt and you will not have any issues.


Awesome. Thanks
 
I posted up this rebuild that is available for purchase on Monday. Since the OP has not responded, you can leave me a voicemail if you’re interested. I’ll be back in the office tomorrow afternoon.

 
I think the best one would be a 1974 for an F-engine. If possible, buy a used one that is decent and clean/rebuild yourself. No reason to overpay. I know it's hard to find anything decently priced nowadays though. Buy a rebuild kit and an OEM Toyota accelerator rubber boot on the side. The After market boots in the rebuild kits are crap and will fall apart after a few months. Make sure to get a rebuild kit with a leather plunger.

I don't recall the specifics exactly as my thoughts are a bit lost, BUT, from what I remember:

74 has bigger slow jets? I don't remember if that's the correct term but it's suppose to allow for a slower crawl on the Fj40 when off-roading. Coupled with the outward heavy flywheel of the F-engine and lower geared transfercase, it's a win win

The 74 carb is all aluminum? This is another one I can't remember the correct term for it, but anyway, the 74 is stronger and is not suppose to warp as opposed to the earlier carbs (1970); which, the lower half of the carbs, were cast steel (again, I don't remember if that's the exact materials used).... I notice this on my 1970 carb as the lower half of the carb isn't "nice and straight" any more and I need to double gasket the thing up so there are no leaks....its just like the valve covers for the engines. The 1F covers were stamped steel and begin to warp/leak after a while. The 2f valve covers are aluminum and retain their shape, preventing any warping/leaks

The fuel sight for the 1974 is made of clear glass and not plastic like the 1970 carb. My orginal plastic sight started to crumble a bit so it's good to have a solid piece of glass instead.

Primary jets I think are 116 on the 1974 as opposed to the 112 sized jet on the 1970. The 112 is okay but you better hope you have ethenol free gas in your area. I ran the 112 with the diffrent types of fuel and it didn't really like all the corn crap gas. It'll run but there is a noticble difference running between the diffrent fuels..... With the 116, It feels like it's the minimum that it's okay to run with "modern gas". So it sits right in the middle, not too lean and not too rich. Of course, you can always swap out to whatever jet size you need.

I have a 1970 carb with no real complaints. Just from what I've read the 1974 is the "best" of the mechanical carbs out there.

Other than that, I belive everything else is the same. I'd remove all the extra "emissions junk" when you get yours as it is not needed (take off the Choke breaker and cap off the vsv lines) Get a VAC advanced distributor and run a vaccum line to the manifold. People will say you need a vacuum ported carb and it's the "holy grail for performance." Just nah. Not necessary. You can always keep your VAC retard distributor and cap it off to make it mechanical advanced. Your other option is, that, I belive 4Cruiser now sells a conversion canister for the ealry VAC retard distributor to make them VAC advanced.
 
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I think the best one would be a 1974 for an F-engine. If possible, buy a used one that is decent and clean/rebuild yourself. No reason to overpay. I know it's hard to find anything decently priced nowadays though. Buy a rebuild kit and an OEM Toyota accelerator rubber boot on the side. The After market boots in the rebuild kits are crap and will fall apart after a few months. Make sure to get a rebuild kit with a leather plunger.

I don't recall the specifics exactly as my thoughts are a bit lost, BUT, from what I remember:

74 has bigger slow jets? I don't remember if that's the correct term but it's suppose to allow for a slower crawl on the Fj40 when off-roading. Coupled with the outward heavy flywheel of the F-engine and lower geared transfercase, it's a win win

The 74 carb is all aluminum? This is another one I can't remember the correct term for it, but anyway, the 74 is stronger and is not suppose to warp as opposed to the earlier carbs (1970); which, the lower half of the carbs, were cast steel (again, I don't remember if that's the exact materials used).... I notice this on my 1970 carb as the lower half of the carb isn't "nice and straight" any more and I need to double gasket the thing up so there are no leaks....its just like the valve covers for the engines. The 1F covers were stamped steel and begin to warp/leak after a while. The 2f valve covers are aluminum and retain their shape, preventing any warping/leaks

The fuel sight for the 1974 is made of clear glass and not plastic like the 1970 carb. My orginal plastic sight started to crumble a bit so it's good to have a solid piece of glass instead.

Primary jets I think are 116 on the 1974 as opposed to the 112 sized jet on the 1970. The 112 is okay but you better hope you have ethenol free gas in your area. I ran the 112 with the diffrent types of fuel and it didn't really like all the corn crap gas. It'll run but there is a noticble difference running between the diffrent fuels..... With the 116, It feels like it's the minimum that it's okay to run with "modern gas". So it sits right in the middle, not too lean and not too rich. Of course, you can always swap out to whatever jet size you need.

I have a 1970 carb with no real complaints. Just from what I've read the 1974 is the "best" of the mechanical carbs out there.

Other than that, I belive everything else is the same. I'd remove all the extra "emissions junk" when you get yours as it is not needed (take off the Choke breaker and cap off the vsv lines) Get a VAC advanced distributor and run a vaccum line to the manifold. People will say you need a vacuum ported carb and it's the "holy grail for performance." Just nah. Not necessary. You can always keep your VAC retard distributor and cap it off to make it mechanical advanced. Your other option is, that, I belive 4Cruiser now sells a conversion canister for the ealry VAC retard distributor to make them VAC advanced.
Awesome. Thank you for all the information. I would be fine with buying a rebuilt one just so I can drive it to get an exhaust put on. As of now, I have a header from jt outfitters, and need an exhaust before I lose my hearing. For this to happen of course, I need to get it running good enough to drive it there. I live in colorado, and I’m not sure what to do about jetting when I get a new carb. In my Haynes manual for an F motor, I believe it states that I don’t need to change anything, but idk.
 
Buy that one mark posted above. I`m certain he can suggest some jetting for your elevation. Good luck with your project.
 
Cool, yeah the important thing is getting it running and you being able to drive it.

I'm sitting at 3800ft of elevation. I'd assume since you're in Colorado your elevation should be similar or higher. The 112 should work fine. I played with diffrent jet sizes to see what worked best for my area plus the current gas I use.

When available, ethenol free gas loved running with the 112 jet size at 3800 ft. However, changing to regular gas I'd notice slower acceleration/response; so, I continued going up in jet size until I settled with the 116. It's the best for my scinario since all the service stations in my area have regular gas and ethenol free fuel is only avaible during a certain time of the year. Since I don't feel like changing out the primary jet throughout the seasons in sync with the available fuel, I opted with a size that compliments both fuel types. :steer:
 
Cool, yeah the important thing is getting it running and you being able to drive it.

I'm sitting at 3800ft of elevation. I'd assume since you're in Colorado your elevation should be similar or higher. The 112 should work fine. I played with diffrent jet sizes to see what worked best for my area plus the current gas I use.

When available, ethenol free gas loved running with the 112 jet size at 3800 ft. However, changing to regular gas I'd notice slower acceleration/response; so, I continued going up in jet size until I settled with the 116. It's the best for my scinario since all the service stations in my area have regular gas and ethenol free fuel is only avaible during a certain time of the year. Since I don't feel like changing out the primary jet throughout the seasons in sync with the available fuel, I opted with a size that compliments both fuel types. :steer:
Wow yea. That’s smart. Where I live, we are about 6000 feet.
 
Your other option is, that, I belive 4Cruiser now sells a conversion canister for the ealry VAC retard distributor to make them VAC advanced.
I have one or two more of those vacuum advancers available.
 
update: I have found a carb from a friend mine. He has it marked as built in February of 1972. It look to be very good shape. If I order a rebuild kit, would this work? I know that would fit my F engine. Am I missing anything?
 
update: I have found a carb from a friend mine. He has it marked as built in February of 1972. It look to be very good shape. If I order a rebuild kit, would this work? I know that would fit my F engine. Am I missing anything?

D0E6CFFF-721F-495D-B5E9-B6B624E029DA.png
 
It looks like a later year carb from 75+. Almost sure that's a vaccum actuated carb from the looks of it. I'm not certain if the base will mount up directly to the intake manifold of a 1F.
 
: rolleyes:

F engine carburetors do not have vacuum secondaries. There is definitely a vacuum secondary diaphragm in your picture. But it looks like a 1F air horn.

Composite carb. :meh:
 
Yes. Don’t put a maybe/sometimes vac secondary carb on a motor that wasn’t even designed for one. I have put many a 1F mechanical secondary carburetor on a 2F engine over the last 30 years. But I have never put a 2F vacuum secondary onto an F engine. Ever.
Do a thread search for ‘paper clip test’ and you will begin to know how many disappointed vac secondary carb owners there are out there.
 

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