Best battery for stock LX570? (2 Viewers)

[rherrco]

Greetings from a new member,
I have had my LX for about 4 years, and it seems to eat batteries. I have to replace the current one after one year in the car, about 5000 miles. Last one lasted about two years. Both Costco Interstate 27f. Cheap, but not what I need off road. Any suggestions, like an AGM? I do not have extra lights or other power draws. Thanks.

 

[Heckraiser]

How long does your truck normally sit between use? If it's less than a week or two, then I think you've got something drawing on the battery when parked. You should not be having the problem you describe with any battery, even a cheapo one.

 

[2014 LEX 570 GA]

Homebrew Single Group 31 Battery Install

Took a cue from this thread and ordered a high quality Deka 1131PMF battery. It's a flooded lead acid which has the advantage of full compatibility with the stock smart alternator charging profile (and longest life prospects). With often sought features of AGM including: - Spill proof - Heavy...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[j404]

Agree that you have a phantom draw. It's not hard to figure out, I'm sure youtube has a good guide, basically you put a voltmeter inline with the positive terminal (don't start the truck). It will show the truck pulling whatever .1 amps, some small amount. Start pulling fuses 1 by 1 until the amp drain drops. Now you know which circuit is acting up.

That said, it seems the charging systems are designed for lead acid not AGM. There are only two companies that make lead acid, then retail companies slap their label on the battery. I always buy batteries from wal mart or autozone even though I hate both stores. Because if I'm on a trip, I'm always going to be within 20-30 miles of one. If I have an issue under warranty while out of town it's not a huge deal to get the battery swapped out. IMHO cleaning up terminals, making sure the clamps aren't stretched out, making sure you have good grounds and no phantom drains is more important than "X" brand battery. I do go for the highest CCA that will fit, even if it's paying more for the gold/platinum/whatever as long as it isn't AGM.

 

[bloc]

I agree with heckraiser and j404. No special battery needed. Just figure out the problem that is killing your existing ones.

Modifying things to fit a group 31 is the definition of slapping a bandaid on a problem in this context.

 

[99toylc]

Super Start Platinum AGM battery from O'reilly works very well for my fleet of 6 vehicles (3 of them are snow plows)

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

It might be worth looking a voltage drop across each fuse with a multimeter to determine what's drawing load from your battery.

With respect to replacement, 27F is a great battery. Many people upgrade to a larger capacity group 31 battery for a longer charge. I don't recommend "upgrading" to an AGM on any vehicle that doesn't have a stock AGM, because it might not fully charge at a lower voltage from your alternator. Some folks will trick the alternator to produce higher voltage using a diode, but my preference is to stick with stock flooded acid batteries (they are much cheaper).

 

[rherrco]

How long does your truck normally sit between use? If it's less than a week or two, then I think you've got something drawing on the battery when parked. You should not be having the problem you describe with any battery, even a cheapo one.

Usually it sits up to two weeks, no problem. Last few weeks, hard or no turnover after two days. Nothing much has changed over last few months, only current draw should be security system?

 

[goldwater58]

Stick a voltmeter on your battery with your car on and off and post the voltages. Maybe your alternator isn't doing its job.

 

[rherrco]

Agree that you have a phantom draw. It's not hard to figure out, I'm sure youtube has a good guide, basically you put a voltmeter inline with the positive terminal (don't start the truck). It will show the truck pulling whatever .1 amps, some small amount. Start pulling fuses 1 by 1 until the amp drain drops. Now you know which circuit is acting up.

That said, it seems the charging systems are designed for lead acid not AGM. There are only two companies that make lead acid, then retail companies slap their label on the battery. I always buy batteries from wal mart or autozone even though I hate both stores. Because if I'm on a trip, I'm always going to be within 20-30 miles of one. If I have an issue under warranty while out of town it's not a huge deal to get the battery swapped out. IMHO cleaning up terminals, making sure the clamps aren't stretched out, making sure you have good grounds and no phantom drains is more important than "X" brand battery. I do go for the highest CCA that will fit, even if it's paying more for the gold/platinum/whatever as long as it isn't AGM.

Thanks, I am thinking along the same lines as you. I need to find out if it’s the battery or car electrics. Increasing CCAs from 710 does what? Longer cranking time (car always starts right up) or ca sit longer with low draw? From what I gather AGM might require a smart alternator?

 

[coleAK]

I’m in Alaska, long cold winters, tough on batteries. I’m on my 3rd 27f from Costco on my 2013 LX. Never had a failure, I proactively change the battery every 4 years in the fall.

I also vote for phantom drain. I’ve gotten to where in the winter I sometimes only drive the LX once every 4-6 weeks (I have bunch better performing winter cars) and have had a weak start if on the longer end. I now use a battery tender.

 

[coleAK]

Usually it sits up to two weeks, no problem. Last few weeks, hard or no turnover after two days. Nothing much has changed over last few months, only current draw should be security system?

Aftermarket security system?

 

[bloc]

It might be worth looking a voltage drop across each fuse with a multimeter to determine what's drawing load from your battery.

With respect to replacement, 27F is a great battery. Many people upgrade to a larger capacity group 31 battery for a longer charge. I don't recommend "upgrading" to an AGM on any vehicle that doesn't have a stock AGM, because it might not fully charge at a lower voltage from your alternator. Some folks will trick the alternator to produce higher voltage using a diode, but my preference is to stick with stock flooded acid batteries (they are much cheaper).

This is good advice.

 

[rherrco]

Stick a voltmeter on your battery with your car on and off and post the voltages. Maybe your alternator isn't doing its job.

13 volts on battery before trying to start. 8 volts after trying and fail to turnover. I think alternator works fine, it’s running and charging now at 14volts. I am going to call my repair shop and see if they can do a quick battery check. If battery is good, will need them to take it in and troubleshoot. If battery bad, get a full refund from Costco and buy a better quality battery elsewhere. Thx.

 

[gasman4u]

13 volts on battery before trying to start. 8 volts after trying and fail to turnover. I think alternator works fine, it’s running and charging now at 14volts. I am going to call my repair shop and see if they can do a quick battery check. If battery is good, will need them to take it in and troubleshoot. If battery bad, get a full refund from Costco and buy a better quality battery elsewhere. Thx.

I don't think Costco offers full refunds on batteries anymore.

 

[goldwater58]

13 volts on battery before trying to start. 8 volts after trying and fail to turnover. I think alternator works fine, it’s running and charging now at 14volts. I am going to call my repair shop and see if they can do a quick battery check. If battery is good, will need them to take it in and troubleshoot. If battery bad, get a full refund from Costco and buy a better quality battery elsewhere. Thx.

Hmmm. It does sound like the alternator is doing its thing with respect to those voltages.

Any evidence of A pillar water ingress? Moisture/corrosion at that big wire harness in the door sill could be a potential culprit.

 

[paulunm]

I need to replace my battery as well, Advanced Auto shows the Die Hard Silver 27F fitting, but they also show the Gold and Platinum in 24F fits as well?

Anyone have a 24F in the stock battery tray?

*edit* Never mind... seems the 24F is smaller and has less reserve- so 27F seems to be the way to go.

 

[2021 LC200]

As mentioned a 27F seems a direct fit with poles in the factory position.

This looks like an option (Duracell Ultra or Ultra Gold) with specs at or better than the Panasonic, minus Made in Japan and likely less durable.

The Duracell car batteries appear East Penn Manufactured, same as the Deka mentioned. Do not know whether Deka or Duracell are similar in design or one better than the other.

Duracell Ultra Gold Flooded 840CCA BCI Group 27F Car and Truck Battery - SLI27FM

Shop the reliable Duracell Ultra Gold Group 27F flooded car and truck battery with a powerful 840 cold cranking amps at Batteries Plus.

www.batteriesplus.com

 

[rherrco]

Hmmm. It does sound like the alternator is doing its thing with respect to those voltages.

Any evidence of A pillar water ingress? Moisture/corrosion at that big wire harness in the door sill could be a potential culprit.

Alt good, no water damage, auto shop said most likely a cell going bad in the battery, Costco is replacing at no charge. I could try trimming the battery tray and shoehorning in a 31, but for now just going to wait for the 27f to come in. Interstate claims it’s their best battery. Hmmm…

 

[gasman4u]

My forever crusade continues...B+B is awful to deal with should you have battery issues. IME, I would rather take the unknown quantity that is the Autozone Diehard, etc than go back with B+B. Godspeed if you go down that road.