Best 100 Series... 06 and 07? Share your experiences / expertise! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cobbs
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hoser
SILVER Star
There's a couple of issues specific to the '06-'07 that are worth looking into. They might not be a big deal but they could cost you extra time and money.
1) Air induction pump... known issue and is expensive to repair. However, there are a lot kits available to bypass the system. If in CA, there is a small chance you won't pass smog with the bypass.
2) Several '06 members have experienced hard starting after the engine has been running for some time. I think it came down to replacing the fuel pump with an '07 version but I'm not sure if that was truly the cause.
forum.ih8mud.com
1) Air induction pump... known issue and is expensive to repair. However, there are a lot kits available to bypass the system. If in CA, there is a small chance you won't pass smog with the bypass.
2) Several '06 members have experienced hard starting after the engine has been running for some time. I think it came down to replacing the fuel pump with an '07 version but I'm not sure if that was truly the cause.
Hard starting in extreme heat conditions
I have been having an issue with my 2006 100 now that the heat of summer is here in Arizona. After driving at slow speeds off-road on hot days I am getting fuel coming out of the fuel fill area causing fumes. If I turn off the engine it will crank strong, but won't start until it has cooled off...
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C6H12O6
SILVER Star
I have an '07 that replaced my worn out 80-series. Night and day difference, between the extra power and the five speed. Without any real scientific comparison, I'd say the five speed is more important than the extra power, but both are nice. With my 80 with 33" tires, I was constantly between gears in the mountains and the power loss going up to the bigger tires was way more noticeable. With the five speed in my 100, I noticed a difference when I first got the bigger tires, but I don't even notice it now. Still plenty of power and never searching for gears driving up the mountain. I feel like that's more the five speed than the extra power, but it's probably both.
Would you notice that same difference between my '07 and an earlier four speed 100? Probably not as much.
Would you notice that same difference between my '07 and an earlier four speed 100? Probably not as much.
2006 has 275HP. Earlier models have 235HP. I'd pay an extra 3 grand (usually 06-07 premium) any day of the week for an extra 40 HP. Well worth it IMO as adding that kind of HP is spendy + aftermarket options are usually not as good as factory.
Driving over hills and passing on freeway feels nice and fun with 275.
Driving over hills and passing on freeway feels nice and fun with 275.
C6H12O6
SILVER Star
One other thing to consider, which hardly ever comes up here, is the financial side. Most banks will give you a better interest rate on the newer vehicles. Check out the following current loan rates from my credit union:
If you don't have the cash to pay outright and you'll be financing, you really can't ignore the rate differences. If I were looking at a '06-'07 100 today, and I weren't totally dead-set on the 100, it's hard to justify the premium in sales price for the later 100 when you compare sales prices of the earlier 200s. When you factor in the higher interest rate of the older car loan, the slight increase you might pay for a early 200 isn't really there when you look at the life of your loan.
If you have excellent credit and qualify for the lowest rate in each category, compare the two 60-month loans. Buying a 100 over a 200 could double your interest rate on the loan. That is not insignificant for most people.
When I bought my '07, it was quite a bit more than the earlier 100s, but this loan issue helped me close the gap of the total cost of ownership.
If you don't have the cash to pay outright and you'll be financing, you really can't ignore the rate differences. If I were looking at a '06-'07 100 today, and I weren't totally dead-set on the 100, it's hard to justify the premium in sales price for the later 100 when you compare sales prices of the earlier 200s. When you factor in the higher interest rate of the older car loan, the slight increase you might pay for a early 200 isn't really there when you look at the life of your loan.
If you have excellent credit and qualify for the lowest rate in each category, compare the two 60-month loans. Buying a 100 over a 200 could double your interest rate on the loan. That is not insignificant for most people.
When I bought my '07, it was quite a bit more than the earlier 100s, but this loan issue helped me close the gap of the total cost of ownership.
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C6H12O6
SILVER Star
Actually, you probably wouldn't get that lowest rate shown for the newer car on a 60-month loan, but still... Worth looking into.
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Paying cash but thanks for the info!
I my first was an 03 LX with 92k miles- I really wanted the 5 speed tranny, and this one had a 100% dealer maintained history and spent it's life in mall parking lots.
I later bought a 06 LC with 180k for my son - it was used going from one mining site to another. I can't explain why, but the 06 just feels and drives like a newer vehicle in spite of having double the mileage. Also, the extra horsepower IS noticeable. If I ever need another one - it will definitely be 06-07.
I later bought a 06 LC with 180k for my son - it was used going from one mining site to another. I can't explain why, but the 06 just feels and drives like a newer vehicle in spite of having double the mileage. Also, the extra horsepower IS noticeable. If I ever need another one - it will definitely be 06-07.
I have an '06 with Doug Thorley headers and Borla exhaust - actually feels jumpy off the line and fast, for what it is.
I bought an 06-07 for the sweet spoiler.
That would have nothing to do with HP and the TQ is pretty much the same 03-07.
Op - buy the best condition sample you find and ignore year/mileage. It'll never be fast and you'll never get good mpg. That's fact and model year agnostic.
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Dt headers and exhaust add 15 hp and 20 ft lbs of torque to the 04. This was dyno’d by the 100 series mud family. Big difference. Revs smoother and quicker than Stock as well.
I didn't say it had anything to do with HP or torque, only stated my '06 with DT Headers and Borla exhaust felt pretty fast for a heavy SUV.
But it is documented that stock VVTi models are faster 0-60 than pre-VVTi. Torque curve matters but yes, torque kicks you off the line. Peak torque in VVTi models rated at 12 ft lbs higher (332 vs 320) - not sure if most can feel that. Once moving, again, torque and HP curves matter but HP does play in overall acceleration - peak HP in VVTi models 40 HP higher. Whether or not any of this matters to anyone is a personal decision, and price and condition can rate higher or lower based on the individual's preferences. I have no idea how the headers or exhaust have changed the numbers, I didn't dyno before and after. Fuelly.com data for Land Cruisers seems completely unreliable, but I don't see any indication on there that 5 speed OR VVTi had any positive impact on MPG. I haven't towed yet but quite a few members have said the VVTi is better for towing.
Sounds like you’d be better off with a 40 or 60. Any 100 is full of sensors and electronics which make it harder to DIY than old cars... just sayin. Sounds like people are just looking for stuff to complain about.
Sounds like I am better off with my 2002 and 2004 LX, and I drive a lot of miles and do a lot of preventive maintenance myself. Just sharing my experience and not telling you what you'd be better off with. I've had a few of various years and I agree with those who advise to look at the condition and the prospective application of your vehicle.
C6H12O6
SILVER Star
Sensors, or no, I've found the 100 is much more DIY-friendly for some things than my 80 was. Granted, I haven't done a steering rack yet, but there is so much more room to work on the 100 compared to the 80 with the 1FZ-FE, the 100 has been a pleasure to work on so far.
And honestly, I've been chasing crusty grounds and vacuum leaks on my 40 for more than a year. I've never had a problem with OBD giving me a guess as to what's wrong. People love to complain about things, but working on a clean, modern engine with plenty of room to reach things and having OEM parts readily available shouldn't be one of them.
And honestly, I've been chasing crusty grounds and vacuum leaks on my 40 for more than a year. I've never had a problem with OBD giving me a guess as to what's wrong. People love to complain about things, but working on a clean, modern engine with plenty of room to reach things and having OEM parts readily available shouldn't be one of them.
When I bought my 100-series I was more concerned about long term durability more than HP numbers. I ended up with a clean well taken care of 2000 model and upgraded the leaky exhaust headers with DT as well as the whole cat back system. Feels decent on power and fuel economy numbers are crap like everyone has said. Why I wanted an older than 03 model was because that giant useless screen in the middle of the dash that you can't realistically upgrade was a deal breaker for me. Plus the prices on the older models are hard to ignore even if you factor in the older trans and 40 hp loss compared to the 06-07. I now have apple car play and spotify jamming on my component speakers through dual JL subs. That to me makes a "Slightly" slower luxury vehicle more than worth it when I have an upgraded cabin that is simple and not-so-integrated, but also I don't have secondary air injection systems to worry about. I can check the fluid level and quality on my trans dipstick. I also don't have AHC from the factory... You guys get the idea. Simple IMHO is better when it comes to something I plan on keeping forever.
