Belly up! (1 Viewer)

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Eskimo

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 6, 2002
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1,358
Location
Danville, PA
Website
www.rnrfab.com
This weekend, thanks to a prototype clocking ring from BudBuilt, I got to do what I've really been wanting to.. a flat, flush skidplate.

In this pic, you can see that the skid angles down towards the rear.. approx 2" below the frame at the rearmost edge. (There is 1" angle welded around the perimeter, that's why it doesn't look like much)
skid_jpg.jpg


When we made the crossmembers for the transmission/skid/wrap bar/carrier bearing/etc.. we designed in this slope, to help support the skid.. Well, in order to go belly up, both of them needed to be re-made, along with a ton of other little things that took the better part of 20 hours.

But now, the skid is right against the frame - a 2" gain in ground clearance... The skid is ~36" long, for reference.
low_jpg.jpg

side_jpg.jpg


rear u-joint angles did go from 20° to 27°, but it's worth it. I might just run a regular 2-joint shaft and live with the vibes if needed, but I run a center limit strap anyway, we'll see.
 
I wish my belly was that flat :grinpimp:

bk
 
wngrog said:
Still no Moly in those axles ?

:flipoff2: Just kidding, very cool!

No, you're right. I really NEED some Cromo.. I'm hoping to limp this junk along until the swap later in the year. Swapping wider axles is cheaper than narrowing the rig :D
 
looks good, but I would try and protecte those bolts holding it on a little better. Possibly even wrapping the plate up the sides of the frame to bolt it to the side. It would suck to try to get it off if the heads of the bolts were all screwed up from hitting or dragging them.
 
76BigheadFJ40 said:
looks good, but I would try and protecte those bolts holding it on a little better. Possibly even wrapping the plate up the sides of the frame to bolt it to the side. It would suck to try to get it off if the heads of the bolts were all screwed up from hitting or dragging them.

That's why i use regular 1/2" bolts instead of the fashionable flush head ones... I can just take a file and quickly restore the 6 sides enough to get a socket on 'em.

Try that with a countersink allen head when there's a burr covering 1/2 the hole.. ;)

Oh, and it's 22 1/2" to the skid, but my tires are up at ~25psi. Should be around 21 at trail pressure.
 
Rich, looks really good. I would like to do something like that with my 80.

Why not cut a v-notch out of the plate so the driveshaft could move down/up through it?
 
concretejungle said:
Why not cut a v-notch out of the plate so the driveshaft could move down/up through it?

Don't need to. 2-piece driveshaft.. stays out of the rocks (mostly). The length of a 1-piece driveshaft would be ~50" long, and would be a TOTAL rock magnet.

The 2-piece driveshaft was made by Universal Driveline in Concord, NC.. the front has something stupid like 13" of usable slip, and the tubing is .120 or .188 wall, for when it does get into the rocks.

I think the skid weighs (without all the angle for reinforcement I don't need anymore) right around 60lbs.
 
Not trying to pimp him out, but Bud did a clocking ring for a Tacoma automatic t-case as well.. I bet if he had a donor case, he could figure something out... The man is very creative...
 
Purchased a bunch of SS hot rod stye rounded bolts, they would slide good, they have allen heads.


Rob



Eskimo said:
That's why i use regular 1/2" bolts instead of the fashionable flush head ones... I can just take a file and quickly restore the 6 sides enough to get a socket on 'em.

Try that with a countersink allen head when there's a burr covering 1/2 the hole.. ;)

Oh, and it's 22 1/2" to the skid, but my tires are up at ~25psi. Should be around 21 at trail pressure.
 
Now how am I supposed to siphon gas from your 40 to my gas sucking 80 on the way to the Roundup if you're running on propane...? :D

TJK
 
instead of running bolts on the bottom, put some ears on the plate and fasten them through the sides of the frame rails, they will be exposed to less abuse there....

bk
 
And shear off/dent and break.. Most SS bolts are not quite equivilant to Grade 5....
 

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