Bellcrank Reproduction

[Dizzy]

To start, I must credit @4Cruisers for introducing me to the idea of combining the later F-engine type of throttle ('bellcrank' plus a cable-type throttle pedal) with the later 2F-type of air cleaner assemblies and a ball-joint carb throttle, which is native to a ton of Aisan and Aisan-clone carbs out there. This would be a hot idea for anyone trying to rehab an FJ40 with a hacked up history, installing a 2F carb without modifying the firewall on an earlier rig to support the linkage bracket, or finding a better solution than addressing mechanical slop at every point along a torque-rod accelerator linkage. The bellcrank principle might me a cleaner install for carb conversions as well.

Below is the original carb, manifold, spacer, from my '75 FJ40 fitted with a cable-bellcrank setup. Technically speaking, I assume this Toyota part# 78106-90351, correct me if I am wrong, but, a MUD search comes up with one that has the return spring configured differently (toward the front of the truck).

The goal of this project is to duplicate the above bellcrank and ball-joint push rod. The original Toyota part has some wear, and I'm more interested in a no-slop, positive feel on the gas pedal, and a stack of my own fresh bellcrank clones.

Below, torque-rod-type linkage set-up from early '75 2F tech.

 

[4Cruisers]

My goal was to come up with a solution for utilizing an early 2F air cleaner assembly (with the hot air intake) for my '71 FJ40 build. The '71 has a '76 2F with an F intake manifold and carburetor. The larger 2F air cleaner assembly interferes with the cable loop on the stock '71 FJ40 set-up. Based on this thread Picture needed of throttle cable routing, Stock '73 FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/picture-needed-of-throttle-cable-routing-stock-73-fj40.1045987/ started by @73FJ40, I thought the '73 one-year specific bellcrank would work for my application. The parts required for this modification include a 2F air cleaner assembly, the air intake horn/bracket/clamp, a carb top hat extension from City Racer, a '73 bellcrank assembly from @65swb45, a pushrod stud from a later 2F carburetor throttle shaft, and a custom adjustable length accelerator cable from @Downey.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

To start, I must credit @4Cruisers for introducing me to the idea of combining the later F-engine type of throttle ('bellcrank' plus a cable-type throttle pedal) with the later 2F-type of air cleaner assemblies and a ball-joint carb throttle, which is native to a ton of Aisan and Aisan-clone carbs out there. This would be a hot idea for anyone trying to rehab an FJ40 with a hacked up history, installing a 2F carb without modifying the firewall on an earlier rig to support the linkage bracket, or finding a better solution than addressing mechanical slop at every point along a torque-rod accelerator linkage. The bellcrank principle might me a cleaner install for carb conversions as well.

Below is the original carb, manifold, spacer, from my '75 FJ40 fitted with a cable-bellcrank setup. Technically speaking, I assume this Toyota part# 78106-90351, correct me if I am wrong, but, a MUD search comes up with one that has the return spring configured differently (toward the front of the truck).

View attachment 2847819


View attachment 2847828

The goal of this project is to duplicate the above bellcrank and ball-joint push rod. The original Toyota part has some wear, and I'm more interested in a no-slop, positive feel on the gas pedal, and a stack of my own fresh bellcrank clones.

Below, torque-rod-type linkage set-up from early '75 2F tech.

View attachment 2847834

Dizzy i will contribute ANY ball and socket rods u need just say trhe word

i am at a place i can take a longer NOS one and reduce it to your needed length !


call on me im here to help /............

 

[Dizzy]

Nice, Matt. I'm glad this thread caught your eye.

Also, Toyota still has available the spring clips alone, right? It would be super cool to machine some new push rods, and put OEM clips on them. Also, determining the best path for installing new balls on the original, later, torque-rod-linkage (TIG welded, or lockwasher and nut - M6x1). I know that I'm probably making a big fuss about a little wear, but, I'm running on the trail with a mildly bent one on my accelerator pedal (got struck by headers, PO), that, and if I use my hand-throttle, the idle eventually settles down from where I set it (I get the sense that these connections might settle-in to the wear spots on the balls, but, I'll never know until I install stuff with less wear/new metal). The OEM ball clips are ideal, the spring steel appears not to wear or oxidize, but, too much goes into these Land Cruisers to not have also renewed the bushings, and balls/sockets?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Nice, Matt. I'm glad this thread caught your eye.

Also, Toyota still has available the spring clips alone, right? It would be super cool to machine some new push rods, and put OEM clips on them. Also, determining the best path for installing new balls on the original, later, torque-rod-linkage (TIG welded, or lockwasher and nut - M6x1). I know that I'm probably making a big fuss about a little wear, but, I'm running on the trail with a mildly bent one on my accelerator pedal (got struck by headers, PO), that, and if I use my hand-throttle, the idle eventually settles down from where I set it (I get the sense that these connections might settle-in to the wear spots on the balls, but, I'll never know until I install stuff with less wear/new metal). The OEM ball clips are ideal, the spring steel appears not to wear or oxidize, but, too much goes into these Land Cruisers to not have also renewed the bushings, and balls/sockets?

i reproduced the black spring clips and they are available to you


check out these pics :

 

[4Cruisers]

I have some extra new and used rods and clips that I'll donate to the R&D cause - some are extra parts that @ToyotaMatt provided me earlier.

 

[4Cruisers]

At some point Toyota started using plastic for the rod ends.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[mattressking]

Part number for the clips from Toyota, they are about $1-$2

78197-10010

1HZ trucks are a great resource for the hardware, peruse a few diagrams and you will see all the accelerator linkage options. Same with the Injection Pumps, they are the same style steel linkage that @ToyotaMatt displayed.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Part number for the clips from Toyota, they are about $1-$2

78197-10010

1HZ trucks are a great resource for the hardware, peruse a few diagrams and you will see all the accelerator linkage options. Same with the Injection Pumps, they are the same style steel linkage that @ToyotaMatt displayed.

when i had these made , that part # was disc. / nla ?

if it;s back kool !


here are some OEM Resources tools Dizzy :


7M-GTE and 7M SUPRA and Cressida

accelerator linkage set ups are a foundation of sorts ..

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Early 22RE 's

had these on them ........

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Early 18R and 20R 's had this complex ballet of mechanical harmony on them too .......

 

[Dizzy]

So, here is a '70 intake. The carb spacer from 2F won't clear the head; the F manifold is a tad bit closer where it mounts the carb to the intake than the 2F, so I used a stack of washers to mock up. If it had to do factory oiling with the oil filter on the driver side, I assume that the bellcrank would clear?

the brake booster and return spring are in conflict here. There is a photo of one with the spring on the fender side of the engine, maybe my bellcrank is closer to the design for the later manifolds?

A big victory about this set-up is you get a carb with a stud for mounting an air filter housing, as the original '70 carb requires a functional air-horn-clamp-type air cleaner assembly. My '73 had been pretty mangled with the clamp around the air horn, IIRC, and probably let in unfiltered air. We are hopefully opening up doors here so that people can run an Aisan-type carb, until you get a complete set of original carb parts, or whatever.

 

[Dizzy]

The picture says it all. Is that a knurl from the jaws on a pair of ViceGrips?

 

[Dizzy]

So, above, there are a couple of ball joints, Hillman, and something from Amazon. M6 x1. They don't disassemble at the ball socket. Oops, I forgot to measure the OD where those black clips OEM #78197-10010 fit on the rod; whether it requires turning on a lathe, or is something available already in that size.

 

[4Cruisers]

So, here is a '70 intake. The carb spacer from 2F won't clear the head; the F manifold is a tad bit closer where it mounts the carb to the intake than the 2F, so I used a stack of washers to mock up. If it had to do factory oiling with the oil filter on the driver side, I assume that the bellcrank would clear?

View attachment 2848732

the brake booster and return spring are in conflict here. There is a photo of one with the spring on the fender side of the engine, maybe my bellcrank is closer to the design for the later manifolds?

View attachment 2848733

A big victory about this set-up is you get a carb with a stud for mounting an air filter housing, as the original '70 carb requires a functional air-horn-clamp-type air cleaner assembly. My '73 had been pretty mangled with the clamp around the air horn, IIRC, and probably let in unfiltered air. We are hopefully opening up doors here so that people can run an Aisan-type carb, until you get a complete set of original carb parts, or whatever.

Here's a view of the set-up on my '71 FJ40 with '76 2F and F intake manifold - '73 bellcrank with custom rod assembled from Toyota parts:

My return spring is off the left edge of the photo.

 

[Dizzy]

It looks like later '69 was a model-year when they had the PCV routed to the manifold, not the carb base. Maybe that is the year for my F intake manifold.

Right now, I'd like to make it so the spring is integral to the bellcrank itself, and reproduce the part of the carb that has the ball - so I don't have to hack up any original parts.

I'm seeing most of what is needed for the spring in this one - photo credit: @73FJ40

 

[Dizzy]

Now, I wouldn't want to drill out the ball on the original throttle lever, OEM or clone carb. Well, I'm sure that I could find the parts, start sending me throttle levers, PM please. But certainly, I certainly don't want to modify the original '73 bellcrank for the new ball, that part justifies finding an original '73 to go into, or send it to the LC museum kind of thing.

There is a tiny pin on these that indexes the lever, and keeps it from wanting to turn on the throttle shaft spindle by connecting to the part behind it. I used the original pin to locate the other holes on a steel blank. After all that, I tapped an M4x.7 left over from a side marker lamp to index the new lever on the old carb. I left a bit of a boss so I could weld on the return spring (1/8" c.r.s.).

 

[4Cruisers]

IIRC, the throttle lever is from a '74 parts carburetor I had in my stash.

 

[Dizzy]

That suggests that the bellcrank was also native to '74-model year? I say that because all of the '73 and '74 model-year carbs listed in SOR would require a return spring not attached on the throttle lever, but integral to the bellcrank. Maybe SOR installed the wrong throttle lever on their carb identifier for '74?