Battle the rust before there is rust??? Is this good practice or silly voodoo? (1 Viewer)

[crispy21]

So my 80 lives in PA and boy do they love their salt more than a professional margarita aficionado.

Needless to say my rather rust free 80 is getting temped by the sins of rust. So before mine wastes away into some of those neglected 60's I see, I was looking for a solution for the common areas.

So as a professional youtube mechanic, I turned to the site as a reference for ideas. Along comes this video.



Please watch or skim it to see if this is a good idea or some silly voodoo doo doo. Your opinion is appreciated.

 

[Bigdrewbowski]

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[crispy21]

I was thinking that the petro jelly would be good because it would gel back-up and stay more in place at the bottom of the doors etc.

 

[LINUS]

The tailgate being given some ATF is pretty well known around here, but the infamous tail hatch where you see rust under the glass is a poor gasket design that this setup wouldn’t fix - you gotta pull glass & gasket & smear silicone in there.

But heck, if you’re worried about the doors, rockers, etc - go for it.

I only know the hatch rust, out here salted roads aren’t that many calender days.

 

[morganism]

@oos here advises to use linseed (flax) oil. Goes in liquid, bonds any existing rust, dries hard and waterproof.

And he is right. Only thing that holds up in the AZ sun is straight LS oil, outlasts any varnish by a decade.

 

[flintknapper]

@oos here advises to use linseed (flax) oil. Goes in liquid, bonds any existing rust, dries hard and waterproof.

And he is right. Only thing that holds up in the AZ sun is straight LS oil, outlasts any varnish by a decade.

^^^^ This has to be right, because you never see a rusty Linseed.

 

[gofast]

@oos here advises to use linseed (flax) oil. Goes in liquid, bonds any existing rust, dries hard and waterproof.

And he is right. Only thing that holds up in the AZ sun is straight LS oil, outlasts any varnish by a decade.

Linseed is not that good in my experience it actually will not protect that well against water. I have several wooden handles I have used linseed on, multiple coats, drying between, small scuff and re apply etc drying to a hard shiny surface. The grain swells when wet with rain. So that tells me that it doesn't work and I have switched to tung oil for wood.

For my vehicle, I use Fluid Film in body and frame cavities and have had good results.

 

[bigredmachine]

50/50 mix of diesel fuel and bar oil, mix and load in a sprayer and go to town on the frame, axle, cross members, ect. and for the doors you can use just straight bar oil

 

[sxp]

Many people use Fluid Film here in Maine. I take my 80 to Rust Check for a full spray. They do inside the panels too, and they have a guarantee against rust.

 

[IanB]

50/50 mix of diesel fuel and bar oil, mix and load in a sprayer and go to town on the frame, axle, cross members, ect. and for the doors you can use just straight bar oil

That sounds like it smells awful.

 

[bigredmachine]

That sounds like it smells awful.

not if ya like the smell of diesel


you don't even notice it, just spray it on and your good to go

 

[LINUS]

That sounds like it smells awful.

I agree, and I grew up with chainsaws & diesel powered logging equipment.

I’m personally in favor more of the ATF you re-apply every so often - even over the melted Vasoline because in cold enough weather I can see the Vasoline cracking away from some panel & almost making a spot for rust to find its’ tooth.

But I’m fully armchair QB’ing as rust out here is a byproduct of precipitation & leaking bodies or plugged drains. Salt is used on roads here (we as a state switched over from that potassium chlorite some ~decade back) - but cold snaps are short & rain then washes away the salt for us.

 

[bugsnbikes]

it’s been shown that keeping Canadians a minimum of a 10foot radius from your rig slows rust.

I have actual audiotape of rust noises when one got inside that radius.

 

[White Stripe]

Buy a different rig for the winter. Something disposable like a Rav4 or highlander.

 

[LINUS]

it’s been shown that keeping Canadians a minimum of a 10foot radius from your rig slows rust.

I have actual audiotape of rust noises when one got inside that radius.

So it’s like a vehicular version of old school STD “crabs”?

-Don’t worry about that driver seat, them crabs can jump 10ft!

 

[IanB]

Buy a different rig for the winter. Something disposable like a Rav4 or highlander.

It's winter half the year here, and it makes zero sense to park one of the best 4x4's in the world when the snow and ice arrive to drive a beater and struggle all winter. It sucks, but it's reality.

 

[Red Merle]

I use bar chain oil now but I used to use Fluid Film. I spray and brush the bar chain oil on both of my rigs several times per year. I have reversed a lot of the rust on the undercarriage of my LC and Tacoma is still 100% rust free after five very far northern winters where we use insane amounts of salt on the roads. It works very well.

 

[White Stripe]

It's winter half the year here, and it makes zero sense to park one of the best 4x4's in the world when the snow and ice arrive to drive a beater and struggle all winter. It sucks, but it's reality.

I wouldn't call it a struggle with a awd rav4 or highlander or even a subaru. With snow tires they are very capable and nimble. And if someone crashes into it and totals it no tears are lost.

 

[Golgo13]

I have heard a LOT of good reviews from guys I work with using Fluid Film. I believe it is just lanolin and makes a little mess during application, but when re-applied every year or two, it keeps the rust off.

 

[AcuWiz]

I saw another vid where the guy was using cheapo spray wax and generic wd40 with the same effects. He sprayed it everywhere he could get it.