Baselining my 95 FZJ80 (2 Viewers)

[florida95fzj]

I'm at 93,000 miles but it really doesn't make a bit of a difference from what I can tell in terms of how much work is needed.

COMPLETED ---

Distributor leaking, valve cover leaking - resolved.

- Change o-ring, cap, distributor cap gasket, rotor, wires, plugs [wrong plugs currently installed], spark plug seals, valve cover gasket, FIPG for inserts
- Clean throttle body, replace gasket
- Check timing
- Replace PCV valve
- Replace all vacuum hoses
- Compression test all good
- Change air filter

Power Steering Leaks

- Replaced fluid with Dexron III
- Cap is leaking
- Pump is leaking - replaced
- Replaced hoses
- Fill and bleed system

Cooling System goes to ~220F - fixed.
Now: In 100F high humidity, never gets above 195. Stays in the 180s normally.

- Flush and thermocure completed. Filled with Toyota Red.
- Replaced radiator, thermostat, hoses, long heater pipe (end is corroded badly), fan clutch, cracked fan & shroud, water pump, rad cap
- Changed oil pump gasket
- Replaced belts and idler pulley x2
- Replaced heater hoses
- Replaced heater control valve
- Replaced transmission cooler hoses
- Replaced knock sensor #2
- Replaced alternator

Resolve Interior / Dash Electrical Issues

- Tested all instrument cluster / meter bulbs --- replaced missing bulbs, which were all lit: MIL, ABS, SRS, Door Ajar
- ABS light stays on. Cause was missing CDL bulb.
- Remove PO accessory wiring
- Door ajar light stays on. Removed TVSS alarm and resolved.
- Possible 12V shock via interior light dimmer switch or mirror switches - resolved after all of this work.
- All door lock switches stopped working after a few weeks. Motor was making quiet grinding noise. Windows work fine. BJ1 damaged.
- BJ1 connector was wrapped in bag - full of water, wires broken. Replaced and all windows/lock issue resolved.
- Replace broken driver's AC vent when replacing bad bulbs - Done - Impex had the best price. Needed the black shroud as well.
- Removed and cleaned front half carpet

Codes

- p0130, p0133, p0135, p0141, p0330 - presumably resolved
- Resolve knock sensor code - replaced
- Replaced O2 sensors
- Reset SRS light - codes 54, 31, 12, 11 Resolved: had to replace SRS ECU

8 MPG Problem -
Crack in crotch of of y-pipe, exhaust leaks between cats and y to manifold connections: welded; new gaskets and hardware.

Other

- Blackstone oil analysis - came back good.
- Replaced China bomb tires - Installed BFG KO2 285/75R16s with spare and Lutz speedometer device
- Replaced battery


TODO --

- Fuel gauge working? No, not accurate - Was near 1/8th tank with ~10 gallons still in the tank.
- Need to check sunroof drains

ATS Pan Leak?

- Clean; figure out if pan is leaking or something nearby
- Change fluid

Brakes

- change fluid
- inspect/replace hoses
- overall inspection - R&R as needed

Fuel

- inspect hoses; replace as needed
- Change small fuel filter
- Check fuel pressure

Verify fuel economy after fixing exhaust leak that was causing excessive fuel trim

Transfer Case, Differentials fluid change

- Replace front row seat covers and cushions

Other

- AC high pressure hose heat wrap needs replacing.
- AC has slow leak. Refilled and slow leak around compressor. Need to replace/refresh system.

 

[Texaswagon]

Heater control valve, change fluid weight in fan clutch, depo headlights.

 

[florida95fzj]

Heater control valve, change fluid weight in fan clutch, depo headlights.

Thanks. My headlight housing is presumably OEM glass. Didn't realize you had to pull the radiator to change them.

My heater control valve looks new but it's a good reminder to double check since some other things are not checking out as expected. I would not be surprised if it was aftermarket and/or the wrong part.

 

[Speedytech7]

Thanks. My headlight housing is presumably OEM glass. Didn't realize you had to pull the radiator to change them.

My heater control valve looks new but it's a good reminder to double check since some other things are not checking out as expected. I would not be surprised if it was aftermarket and/or the wrong part.

You don't have to. Just pull your center grille piece out, that's all I had to do to install the new DEPOs

 

[vegasfj40]

Whats the PHH look like? Since you are draining the coolant, might have a look at that and change it if it looks crusty.

 

[Texaswagon]

You don't need to pull the radiator to change headlights, but you do need to pull the headlights to do the radiator. As mentioned above, if you are replacing the radiator you should go ahead and do all the associated hoses, radiator hoses, PHH, FHH, rear heater bypass, thermostat and gaskets, HCV, clean-flush/back flush first then replace everything. Before you do any of this you can add a cleaner to the radiator and drive it for a week or so before you drain and replace everything. I did all of this to mine when I got it about a year ago. It's a good feeling to know that the coolant system won't fail on you in the future. I completed this over a weekend, not bad, just time consuming. I goofed up and did not replace the headlights or the fan clutch so I had to go back and take things apart to install, would have saved time IF I had everything ready. Also it would be a good time to replace the fusible link (if not already done) while the battery and box are out.

 

[Marco Lau]

I replaced my radiator, fan shroud, oil cooler lines and fittings without touching the headlights.

 

[florida95fzj]

Thanks for all of the good advice here. I need to research more about headlight options it seems. I could not even find Depo housings for my 1995 looking online so I may just hold off on that until I learn more.

I forgot to check if the fan and shroud is brittle. I wasn't thinking of it replacing it but did order the AISIN clutch off Amazon. I need to go back and check prices to do it all.

Will also add fusible link to the list of things to understand. EDIT: It's only $13 (90982-08264). I will just get this.

 

[FMC80]

Not sure why we’re talking about headlights here, the OEM headlights are fine. Since your rad is out, I think this would be a great time to pull the harmonic balancer and replace the crank seal and you may as well do the oil pump cover O-ring. I understand it isn’t leaking but soon enough, it will. More than likely it is flattened and brittle anyway. It isn’t time consuming at all. Just make sure you have JIS Phillips. I think it is a #3 I used and make sure you lightly tap them into the screws to avoid stripping.
If you look up @OTRAMM videos on you tube, there are step by step instructional videos Ryan put together for the community.
Congrats on the new rig, low miles and lots of fun ahead. Let’s see some pics!

 

[florida95fzj]

Since your rad is out, I think this would be a great time to pull the harmonic balancer and replace the crank seal and you may as well do the oil pump cover O-ring.

Good point. Other than getting the right torque wrench, that may not be that bad. I picked up the @OTRAMM tool already.

I guess I should look into replacing the pulleys as well.

 

[vegasfj40]

If you are going to tackle the front seal know that the crank bolt is 300 ft lbs. I had to use a 1 inch breaker bar to break it loose. And that was using the bump the starter method. A friend and I just fought each other trying to keep the crank stable using the Otramm tool. We broke a 3/4 drive breaker bar. We did use the tool to torque the bolt when we were finishing.

 

[florida95fzj]

If you are going to tackle the front seal know that the crank bolt is 300 ft lbs. I had to use a 1 inch breaker bar to break it loose. And that was using the bump the starter method. A friend and I just fought each other trying to keep the crank stable using the Otramm tool. We broke a 3/4 drive breaker bar. We did use the tool to torque the bolt when we were finishing.

Wow. Good to know. You think that was over-torqued to begin with and that was the issue? Ryan made it look so easy in his video.

I do have a 1" air gun I use for bus / heavy truck wheels but I don't know if I could fit it down there and secure the @OTRAMM tool well enough so it doesn't going flying.

I am still trying to figure out if I can rent a torque wrench from a place that actually calibrates them occasionally. I had always used a torque stick to get the 475 foot pounds of torque I needed on the lug nuts. Never spent the money for a wrench with that high of a spec.

 

[jpoole]

I'm sure it's not perfectly accurate but I used the following and haven't had any problems with it or the installed nuts/bolts with it:

3/4 in. Drive 50-300 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 3/4In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I put a socket on a flex plate bolt, through the inspection port, to stop the engine from turning for both removal and reinstall of the pulley bolt, using the above torque wrench. I don't recall it being too hard to remove the bolt but I may have used a cheater for removal as I like to avoid too much elbow grease and the risk of slippage/etc. that comes with it.

I'll add that having the large torque wrench around has come in handy and I've used it for smaller bolts, like when I did my suspension bushings, as it makes it easier to get the leverage you need to torque to spec. I've also used it in place of a cheater bar on a 1/2 breaker, etc. Again, I assume the wrench isn't perfectly accurate but I've rechecked all suspension nuts/bolts and none have loosened in a few years of operation roughly.

Another note is that I'm unset torque wrenches of the above type by turning them to 0 lbs, or no resistance on the adjustment handle, for storage. Not sure it matters but seems like it may help the wrench be more consistent long term and my cheap wrenches need all the help they can get

 

[florida95fzj]

I'm sure it's not perfectly accurate but I used the following and haven't had any problems with it or the installed nuts/bolts with it:

3/4 in. Drive 50-300 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 3/4In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Yeah, it seems you can get a reasonably priced wrench up to 300 ft/lbs. Over 300 ft/lbs and the price jumps significantly.

It really makes me wonder what the truckers or heavy tow drivers use to get up to 400-500 ft/lbs. Although they may just be using air + torque sticks like I was doing for bus wheels.

 

[FMC80]

I'm sure it's not perfectly accurate but I used the following and haven't had any problems with it or the installed nuts/bolts with it:

3/4 in. Drive 50-300 ft. lb. Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 3/4In Dr Click Type Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I put a socket on a flex plate bolt, through the inspection port, to stop the engine from turning for both removal and reinstall of the pulley bolt, using the above torque wrench. I don't recall it being too hard to remove the bolt but I may have used a cheater for removal as I like to avoid too much elbow grease and the risk of slippage/etc. that comes with it.

I'll add that having the large torque wrench around has come in handy and I've used it for smaller bolts, like when I did my suspension bushings, as it makes it easier to get the leverage you need to torque to spec. I've also used it in place of a cheater bar on a 1/2 breaker, etc. Again, I assume the wrench isn't perfectly accurate but I've rechecked all suspension nuts/bolts and none have loosened in a few years of operation roughly.

Another note is that I'm unset torque wrenches of the above type by turning them to 0 lbs, or no resistance on the adjustment handle, for storage. Not sure it matters but seems like it may help the wrench be more consistent long term and my cheap wrenches need all the help they can get

Mine wasn't difficult to remove either. I used a 3/4 drive breaker bar paired with an extension for leverage. You're right, when storing a torque wrench, one should set it to the lowest setting and never go below the lowest setting accidentally as that also compromises accuracy.

 

[florida95fzj]

Got a mostly good Blackstone report although I don't know the miles on this oil. It did not look brand new. No coolant and no water is what I was looking for mostly.

Going to start the cooling system overhaul this weekend, weather permitting, to prevent against overheating given that I have sludgy orange coolant.

 

[florida95fzj]

Updated the first post with my revised to do list.

 

[majdomo]

Good list. Sub to the cooling system baseline is your rear heater, if you have one. Make sure the lines are good or delete, I kept mine because the kids like toasty toes.

That @OTRAMM tool for the harmonic balancer / crank bolt is critical. I rented the BF torque ratchet from O'Reilly to cinch it down. Support @NLXTACY Wits End for the OEM pre-formed hoses, PHH, oil pump cover / gasket / replacement bolts. Would have loved a compact 3/8 electric impact for the oil cover screws, I bought one after this job and use it all the time.

 

[florida95fzj]

Good list. Sub to the cooling system baseline is your rear heater, if you have one. Make sure the lines are good or delete, I kept mine because the kids like toasty toes.

That @OTRAMM tool for the harmonic balancer / crank bolt is critical. I rented the BF torque ratchet from O'Reilly to cinch it down. Support @NLXTACY Wits End for the OEM pre-formed hoses, PHH, oil pump cover / gasket / replacement bolts. Would have loved a compact 3/8 electric impact for the oil cover screws, I bought one after this job and use it all the time.

My rear heats appears to be deleted from what I can tell. I was considering trying to flush that out but had so many other issues pop up I didn't get to it. Sure wish that was rear AC instead of heat.

Loving getting stuff from @NLXTACY. I think I have a good portion of what I need from him to get started. Thanks for the other tips.

 

[florida95fzj]

Some good and bad from today's work

• Cold compression test shows 180 psi on all six cylinders. I went with cold to get worse case conditions and was just looking for differences between cylinders. Oil analysis did not show coolant in oil and had no reason to suspects bad HG.
• One of the plugs had fresh oil on the nut. Need to figure out what that is all about. I already bought 6 seals for the openings in the cover.
• Not sure if the air filter hose should be hard as rock. I am guessing it should be soft like my 2003 4Runner. Might have to replace.
• The high pressure AC hose is a disaster wrapped in duct tape.
• Throttle body sure needs to be cleaned. I will figure out which sensor is the MAF is clean that too.
• Some of the valve cover bolts could be removed with your fingers.

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