Basecramp Trailer Build (6 Viewers)

[Bodean]

Mississippi Rubber maybe? lol

M S RUBBER COMPANY

You might also try Revell Hardware.

 

[JHigh]

Lol
Been looking at home improvement places

 

[bamabrock]

what about buying rubber chocks and cutting them to size?
Rubber Wheel Chock with Eyebolt
Solid Rubber Wheel Chock

 

[ntsaint]

Tractor supply. Buy some of that 1/2" rubber mat they use for horse trailers. Cut it to size. Cheap. Easy.

 

[BMThiker]

Find a pipe/gasket supply house, industrial plumbing, or fire suppression subcontractor. They often have rolls of sheet material in various thicknesses. A PVC rubber will hold up better than a black butyl rubber in the sun.

 

[Hack]

How big is the gap? I'm thinking you should just get a piece of aluminum square or rectangular tube and attach it to the top in that area to fill the gap. Make it long enough to spread the load over a couple of the top supports.

 

[jynx]

If you did like @Hack suggested then you could put a thin piece of rubber under it to cushion it against the roof.

 

[JHigh]

Would it be necessary to affix the piece of boxed aluminum if I went that route or just let the roof rack clamps hold the pressure? If I need to mount it, that might create more of a challenge. Trying not to put holes in the top to keep my risk of leaks down.

 

[Hack]

Bolt the aluminum to the rack, head down to your local truck stop and get a used tire tube liner (probably get one free), cut and fit to the bottom of the aluminum tube. Use some decent adhesive or good double sided tape. I'd still like to see a long enough piece of tubing to spread the load out across a couple of the top frame supports, as the tops of most trailers aren't designed to handle a lot of weight. Using 1/8" thick aluminum won't add substantial weight.

Edit: If the gutter clamps support 100% of the weight (both of the rack and it's load), and you just want to fill the gap: Wood. Get some white oak (seal and paint black) as it holds up to weather the best.

 

[JHigh]

I have some super/unistrut so I may give that a try. Not quite as light as aluminum but not super heavy either

 

[Bossman]

Edit: If the gutter clamps support 100% of the weight (both of the rack and it's load), and you just want to fill the gap: Wood. Get some white oak (seal and paint black) as it holds up to weather the best.

This ^^. If it was good enough for Rolls Royce it's good enough for me.

 

[JHigh]

tried using what I had on-hand to make it work. Once I torque it down, I think this will be super solid (it has a lip under the gutter that you can't really see). I have 4 crossbars/unistruts so I should have any load equally distributed pretty well. If someone thinks this is a really bad idea, y'all holler.

 

[JHigh]

Got the CVT Mt Rainier mounted a few weeks back and started on the arb 1250 awning mount I bought from @wct49 . Fingers crossed I can have most done by the time the crawl comes around. We'll see.

 

[JHigh]

Ever have lots of things that really take precedent, but you do something you want to do? Yeah, I started on upholstering the bed/seats. Needs plenty of other things done first but....

 

[AndyO78FJ40]

Is the trailer vented? If not make sure you add a trailer or rv vent to prevent suffocation.

 

[JHigh]

Ha, it will have a fantastic fan in the top.

 

[JHigh]

Bench / bed upholstery done. About to tackle insulation, walls, and lighting.

 

[wngrog]

Great work

 

[JHigh]

About to remove these horizontal strips of wood, insulate the walls, and add back 3/4" ply for walls (instead of these strips. Anyone have a suggest to affix the ply to the aluminum? Included pic of existing hardware but didn't know how durable they were. I know vibration is a big thing for trailers and hardware.

Any suggestions?

 

[wngrog]

What about rivets? I love me some rivets.