Bad rear wheel bearing? (2 Viewers)

[linuxgod]

I've been noticing more road noise recently. IMO the Nitto Ridge Grappler's I have were never quiet, and they've definitely gotten louder, but after taking a 50 mile trip on the highway last weekend I suspect a bad wheel bearing as the noise didn't really change when I went from fresh asphalt to fresh concrete and back on the highway.

My son and I jacked up the truck today to do a few checks and rotate the tires. I did a shakedown and spin test of each wheel, and in doing so I noticed the passenger's side rear makes a faint clicking sound. No play in the bearings though. [Edit: doing a road test I do not get any changes in the noise when doing S turns]. My son put my iPhone near the wheel with the mic pointed towards the hub. Try to ignore the brake pad noise but if you turn it up I think you can hear the clicking in these videos.





In comparison, here's the driver's side, which has no clicking sound:

https://youtu.be/csF9MvOA8qg

Anyone with experience able to confirm/refute my diagnosis? I've got 110k on the truck, so I'm surprised to have a bearing start to go, but then given I've also probably towed 25k miles or more solidly 1000# over GWVR, plus I spend the rest of my time bouncing around pothole-ridden Chicago.

My Nitto RGs have about 44k on them and probably 40% tread remaining. It seems like every other lug on the outer edges of each tire is slightly rounded downward along the inner and outer sidewall. It's not the normal cupping I've seen on prior tires and there's no feathering of the tread. I didn't take a photo though I could go snap one. I'm sure some of my noise is tire noise though.

I have a video of the general road noise from within the cabin at https://youtu.be/hynciiAwrpI, though despite droning quite a bit the iPhone only seems to capture wind noise so it's only of marginal use.

 

[grinchy]

mine sounded like white noise and i replaced the front wheel bearings, changed tires, and greased driveline trying to figure out what it was.
When one of the rear wheel abs sensors failed and was covered in grease was when I finally caved on it being the rear wheel bearing. It isn't too hard to pull the wheel sensor (one bolt), try that and see if it's clean. if it has grease on it that's a sign imo.
I had them done in conjuction with a ratio change, so the truck was already rear axles loose, so I saved some labor.
I seem to remember the quotes for stand alone were around $1k, but it's been a couple years. I understand from postings and reading that it isn't a hard job, but it does require a shop press and a custom made bearing press.

 

[Sandroad]

No experience specifically with rear LC wheel bearings, but I’ll confirm your diagnosis anyway. The sound sure seemed like a rough bearing and would certainly contribute to road noise. Driving the equivalent of around the world a half ton over GVWR will stress bearings.

 

[linuxgod]

No experience specifically with rear LC wheel bearings, but I’ll confirm your diagnosis anyway. The sound sure seemed like a rough bearing and would certainly contribute to road noise. Driving the equivalent of around the world a half ton over GVWR will stress bearings.

The noise sounds to me like a faint clicking when the wheel spins. (The much louder sound in the video is the brake dragging slightly - just to make sure we are hearing the same thing). It’s like a playing card in a bicycle spoke or a roulette wheel.

it seems louder in person than on my iPhone, and louder on the phone than in the YouTube video. The former makes sense because despite all the rock concerts my ears are still better than the tiny mic in my phone. I think the latter is probably due to whatever encoding YouTube does which probably filters quiet, high pitch sounds as background noise

 

[linuxgod]

I understand from postings and reading that it isn't a hard job, but it does require a shop press and a custom made bearing press.

I’ve seen that as well. Anyone know if the tool required is the same for the Tundra axles off the 4.7L trucks? Asking because the use the same 3rd members vs the 5.7 which uses a larger one, and the shop that’s doing my gears has done a lot of Tundras and 60/80/100 series but not 200s.

 

[grinchy]

I’ve seen that as well. Anyone know if the tool required is the same for the Tundra axles off the 4.7L trucks? Asking because the use the same 3rd members vs the 5.7 which uses a larger one, and the shop that’s doing my gears has done a lot of Tundras and 60/80/100 series but not 200s.

I think the 200 and 2007+ Tundras are the same for the wheel bearings. The Tundra can come with a larger rear diff carrier, depending on the model. I didn't do a bunch of study comparing rear wheel bearings, but I'm running Tundra front bearings and tundra front hubs. . . I believe the rear bearing/hub to be the same too.

 

[radman]

Here’s my rear Driver wheel:

hopefully it holds on for another 1k miles until I get home

 

[Sandroad]

The noise sounds to me like a faint clicking when the wheel spins. (The much louder sound in the video is the brake dragging slightly - just to make sure we are hearing the same thing). It’s like a playing card in a bicycle spoke or a roulette wheel.

it seems louder in person than on my iPhone, and louder on the phone than in the YouTube video. The former makes sense because despite all the rock concerts my ears are still better than the tiny mic in my phone. I think the latter is probably due to whatever encoding YouTube does which probably filters quiet, high pitch sounds as background noise

Hmmmm.......Now I guess I'm not certain I'm hearing the concerning noise, but the DS and PS certainly sound different, Youtube notwithstanding. Maybe @cruiseroutfit will lend his ears to this, since he's the resident rear bearing guru.

 

[Yossarian]

@linuxgod I had both on one side fail early on, WTF? Search for a thread by cruiseroutfit as posted above, he did a rear bearing repair and stated it was a huge PIA on the 200.

Good luck.

 

[linuxgod]

Here’s my rear Driver wheel:

hopefully it holds on for another 1k miles until I get home

Interesting. Yours sounds like it’s directly tied to the rotation, one click per cycle, whereas mine sounds much faster (and fainter).

Maybe I’ll try to strap the GoPro to the side of the truck and drive down the street to see if I can capture it while in motion rather than jacked up.

 

[Tex68w]

I can definitely hear it on @radman's truck, I am struggling to decipher the sounds in the OP's videos. Is this a common issue on these trucks in higher mileage?

 

[ElJayBird]

I had a rear bearing go out around 50K. Mine sounded like a low pitched wine or growl that would start around 55-60 MPH. Never any clicking. It sounded like it was coming from under the hood. Took Toyota quite a while to track it down.

 

[radman]

67k miles, here. But 1.25” spacers and 35s

whats the cost (parts+labor) on one of these? I might have to put on my disguise and roll into the dealer for warranty work

 

[linuxgod]

I can definitely hear it on @radman's truck, I am struggling to decipher the sounds in the OP's videos. Is this a common issue on these trucks in higher mileage?

To my knowledge it's not that common until fairly high mileage (200k or more).

The noise definitely seems to get overwhelmed by the sound of the brake pad touching the rotor in the video. Actually even in person the brake pad sound is much louder. But the in person -> iPhone mic -> youtube conversion definitely seems to lose something. That said if you turn it up. particularly the second video I posted (named Clicky Bearing #1) about mid-way through you can hear something clicking which changes as the tire speed changes.

It's certainly possible it's not a rear bearing, though if it's not then there's something else making a clicking/ticking sound, in which case I have no idea what it would be :-/

 

[linuxgod]

67k miles, here. But 1.25” spacers and 35s

whats the cost (parts+labor) on one of these? I might have to put on my disguise and roll into the dealer for warranty work

Looks like the hub and bearing assembly is about $300-350 per side. There are probably some other seals/etc that are required

Genuine OEM Hub & Bearing Assembly Part# 42450-60070 Fits 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser: Up To 35% Off On Every Order And Guaranteed Fit When You Enter Your VIN | Earnhardt Toyota Scion Parts

2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser OEM Part # 42450-60070 - Hub & Bearing Assembly

parts.earnhardttoyota.com

Genuine OEM Hub & Bearing Assembly Part# 42460-60030 Fits 2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser: Up To 35% Off On Every Order And Guaranteed Fit When You Enter Your VIN | Earnhardt Toyota Scion Parts

2008-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser OEM Part # 42460-60030 - Hub & Bearing Assembly

parts.earnhardttoyota.com

The above is just for rough pricing. I'm not even 100% that's the correct part based on the diagram. If I need it done and my mechanics can't source them from the local Toyota dealer I'd order from Kurt or another MUD vendor who I trust to know what's needed.

As far as labor goes, here's what the flat rate manual says in terms of time required. Looks like 4.3 hours to me?

 

[TeCKis300]

Hah, I like the going in disguise. Worked once before? LOL

I did my rear axle bearings at ~125k proactively. No issues but figured might as well while I had it apart to re-gear. Don't know what the full dealer cost would be, but it's a specialized job to pull and press the bearing off the axle. I'm usually pretty gung ho on doing stuff myself, but it has special tool requirements. Toyota wanted $300/bearing with me handing them the bare axle. Was able to find a local shop that did the deed for $150/pair. The work to pull the axles isn't too bad but I'm sure the dealerships charge arms and legs for it.

More discussion on bearing work here

DIY 4.3 Re-Gear

Yes, easy swap. I don't think the ADD will fit unless the 3rd steering rack mount is removed. Yup, took a look underneath there's not enough space. Easy decision! Just took the ADD extension shaft out. Now to get get this little ADD gear out the side of the diff. It may want to put up a fight.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ElJayBird]

IIRC the cost for Mr T to do the work and provide parts was quoted at $1200 but they did it for me under warranty.

 

[radman]

There are probably some other seals/etc that are required

Yea, that’s worth my time to pull off the wheel spacers, but on the stock shoes, and tip the tech/advisor a little on the side...

Would you replace both sides, or do you think I have any ground to ask for both sides while I’m in?

 

[bloc]

If you already have access to a press this is the tool you need. At this cost vs paying someone I’d buy the tool, though I already have a press.

 

[linuxgod]

Yea, that’s worth my time to pull off the wheel spacers, but on the stock shoes, and tip the tech/advisor a little on the side...

Would you replace both sides, or do you think I have any ground to ask for both sides while I’m in?

What's your mileage?

If I was at 50k, then no as these should last 200k+ IMO for normal use, and I suspect unless the mechanic can find something wrong with the other side the warranty will only cover the one that's bad. If I was at 150k, then yes I'd probably do both. I do a lot of long trips though (4-5k miles) so if I had one going bad early in a trip it could be a big issue for me, whereas if everything I drove was a local trip then I'd feel more comfortable waiting it out.