Bad news… engine possibly blown and looking for advice.

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Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Threads
27
Messages
252
Location
St. Louis, Missouri
After just about a month of ownership, the engine in my recently-acquired 80-series blew up yesterday. Here’s the story:

Driving from St. Louis to Rolla on I-44, in the hilly section between Six Flags and Pacific (for anyone that knows the St. Louis area), going about 80 in morning rush hour traffic. Truck starts to lose power… almost imperceptibly at first, then really noticeable, and the engine is making a racket. Lots of what sounds like valve noise. At first, I am thinking the tranny is severely slipping. I slow down and pull off in Pacific. I pull into a gas station and as I stop, it dies. Temp gauge is not overheating. I did not observe oil pressure gauge. I crank it, and it turns over very slowly, catches, and is sputtering idle. I let it run for a few seconds and shut it off when I see a few wisps of smoke coming from under the hood.

Pop the hood, and I first notice the front of the intake manifold and the PS reservoir are splattered with oil (as is the master cylinder, etc). The I notice that oil has been forced out of the left side PCV hose on the valve cover (the one that connects to the TB, not the PCV valve hose). THEN I notice the dipstick sticking up several inches out of the tube. Oil source found.

After I let it cool off a bit, I checked the coolant and oil. Coolant was full, and no signs of any leak. Oil was either full, or it was about 3/4 quart low. It was hard to get a good reading on the dipstick. But I also didn’t see evidence of much oil loss beside what was splashed around the engine bay.

No perceivable milkshake in the oil, and no perceivable oil floating in the coolant.

I had the car towed back to St. Louis and dropped at my regular mechanic, and independent Toyota specialist. While waiting for the tow, I was poking around here on several descriptions of a clogged or stuck-closed PCV valve were similar to what it experienced.

Unfortunately, my mechanic informed me this evening that there initial diagnosis is pointing to a failed piston ring or possibly a broken piston ring land. He said that they did some “vacuum testing” (I am not sure what that entailed), and it was indicating severe blow-by in at least one of the cylinders. He has not performed a compression/leak down test, nor has he borescoped it yet. He is going to do that. But his prognosis is that it needs a new engine, and he thinks it is likely that if a piston ring failed, there is bore damage.

First, does this prognosis track with what happened, in your collective opinion?

Assuming this is all correct, he said rebuilding the engine (assuming it can be rebuilt) is $8K in labor, plus any parts. He said installing a replacement engine is about $4K, and CruiserParts is advertising a rebuilt long block at $5,500, and an inspected long block is $4,500. So, about $10K for an engine replacement.

Any thoughts on all this? Engine rebuilds and replacements are not really this shop’s forte, although they are very good mechanics. I would be fine with a good USED engine as well, but I’m not seeing many/any for sale.

I’d appreciate anyone’s thoughts/opinions/recommendations on this situation, including the symptoms and breakdown, sources for a 1fz, and shops in St. Louis or nearby that could perform such work.

Thank you in advance!
 
DO NOT buy a engine from Cruiserparts.
Contact @Fj80oregon about a rebuilt engine.
Yep. This is good advice.

As I was reading I was thinking a blown ring before you got to that part. Not common on these (was the seller aware of a ticking time bomb?) but that does cause lots of blow by which would force oil out of seals, and pop dipsticks and hoses. 10k for a rebuilt engine installed is also realistic. However, @slow95z and fj80oregon would have good options from used to rebuilt. There's also the option of buying a new short block from Toyota; your head is likely fine.
Lastly, if you're even a little inclined toward it, don't be intimidated to swap the engine yourself.
 
Thanks, all, for the feedback so far.

For a bit of additional information, I stopped by my mechanic's this morning to chat in a little more detail about what he tested. So far, he only had the opportunity to put a vacuum gauge on it yesterday. He said the vacuum readings were very erratic and that they engine was just pumping oil out of the dipstick tube, indicating a severe cylinder blow-by. He said that early next week he will have time to do a compression/leakdown test and bore-scope each cylinder to identify which one is the causing the issue. So, based on what you all have said and the additional information I got from him, the cylinder ring hypothesis seems correct. I asked him if, in his experience, there is anything that might have precipitated a compression ring failing. He said other than debris from a broken spark plug in the chamber, he didn't think so. He thinks its probably a bad-luck failure.

The person I bought the truck from is actually my brother-in-law in Phoenix. He bought the truck from the wife of a colleague/friend who passed away who was the original owner. The truck lived its whole life in AZ and was a pavement queen. I am sure my brother-in-law was not aware of a "ticking time bomb" issue with the motor. He bought it in 2022 and had a ton of maintenance done on it. Off the top of my head, he had the pan gaskets and rear main seal replaced, torque converter replaced, heater valve and all of the heater hoses replaced (including PHH), radiator replaced, P/S pump, hoses, and steering box replaced, and engine mounts replaced (among other things). Truck has 228K on the clock, so fairly low mileage for a 30 year old vehicle.

Which brings up another question... is piston ring failure at all common on the 1FZ? I don't think I see talk about that often, but my expertise is more with the 100 series and the 2UZ. Also, is this something that I should have noticed symptoms of and, if so, what are the symptoms? Or, is it just something that breaks if it's gonna break?
 
Yep. This is good advice.

As I was reading I was thinking a blown ring before you got to that part. Not common on these (was the seller aware of a ticking time bomb?) but that does cause lots of blow by which would force oil out of seals, and pop dipsticks and hoses. 10k for a rebuilt engine installed is also realistic. However, @slow95z and fj80oregon would have good options from used to rebuilt. There's also the option of buying a new short block from Toyota; your head is likely fine.
Lastly, if you're even a little inclined toward it, don't be intimidated to swap the engine yourself.
I am mechanically-inclined and do most maintenance myself, albeit with my expertise being in the 2UZ Hundys and Sequoias. About the only thing I take my V8 trucks to the mechanic for is timing belt replacements.

However, I am somewhat doubtful if I have the time or the room to pull and replace an engine. Maybe I do. What are the biggest challenges, and what shouldn't I be intimidated about? I mean, compared to the Hundy, there IS a lot of room in that engine compartment to work!
 
I am mechanically-inclined and do most maintenance myself, albeit with my expertise being in the 2UZ Hundys and Sequoias. About the only thing I take my V8 trucks to the mechanic for is timing belt replacements.

However, I am somewhat doubtful if I have the time or the room to pull and replace an engine. Maybe I do. What are the biggest challenges, and what shouldn't I be intimidated about? I mean, compared to the Hundy, there IS a lot of room in that engine compartment to work!

some of the bigger challenges are maneuvering the engine out of and into the engine bay, particularly if you aren't disconnecting your A/C lines. In that case you'll certainly want to leave the tranny in place. aligning your forces on the hoist so that you aren't binding on the alignment dowels is an exercise in patience, having a second person is helpful (last time I did it solo, so it can be done). With how the engine mounts are angled inwards I've found it helpful to remove them from the block so you're not fighting anything. And being hyper aware of making sure everything is disconnected when it comes time to remove the block. I pulled 3 engines before I realized the transmission dipstick tube can be removed. I almost want to pull another engine just to see how much easier it would be without that in the way haha.
The engine harness can be a little tricky to snake out from the firewall where it connects to the ECU, and it's a tight area with stubborn connectors on the other end where it leads back to the transmission. It routes through the lower intake manifold as well. So you can either disconnect both ends and pull it with the engine, or leave it connected at the firewall and disconnect EVERYTHING else, AND snake it through the manifold (or cut a window in the manifold as many here have done). It's also brittle now so you've got to be careful with it and maybe plan on replacing a few of the connectors. On that note, unless you're extremely careful you're likely to break the knock sensor and/or water temp sensor connectors. Watch out for those and the little nipple on the radiator. They are fragile things that can find themselves in the path of larger forces.
Some of the bellhousing bolts are hard to get to. Some have luck removing the shifter and accessing them from inside the cab. I personally like to lower the transmission cross member after having removed the radiator fan and loosened the motor mounts and engine harness. this gives you a good line of sight to the upper bellhousing bolts, then with a good 3-4 feet of 1/2" extensions you can get at them from the transfer case. (***Don't remove these bolts until you've removed the flex plate/torque converter bolts first!! there is an access plate at the bottom of the engine that makes this easy).

The rest of the challenge is random things that are hard to access and just the shear scale of the job-a large accumulation of relatively simple steps you just need to keep track of. Pictures and organizer bins with labels can't be understated. I'm also a big fan of putting as many bolts back into their holes as possible to help keep track of where they are and where they belong.

Again, it's nothing to be really intimidated by. It's just a lot of steps, and they are very very well documented here and folks will be happy to help out if you're stuck.
 
Here's some more information, collected by an amateur (me), so take it for what's its worth.

I had the opportunity to go to the shop this morning and poke around on it outside in snowy, cold weather. Here's what I did:
  1. Disconnected the coil from the distributor and removed the fuel pump relay.
  2. Cylinder by cylinder, I removed the plug, attached a compression gauge, and cranked the engine 9 to 12 rotations to check cylinder pressure.
  3. Bore-scoped, as best I could, each cylinder.
  4. Reinstalled the intake pipe, coil wire, and fuel pump relay, disconnected the PCV valve hose, and ran the engine for about 30 seconds.
  5. NOTE: I DID NOT have an opportunity to add oil to any of the cylinders to check if compression improved, due to a lack of time and the crappy weather.
The measured results for each cylinder were about 15 PSI high due to my father-in-law's compression gauge not zeroing.

All 6 of the plugs had oil on them, and there was evidence of wet oil in each cylinder. I DID NOT notice any "steam cleaning" in any of the cylinders due to coolant entering the combustion chamber.

Cylinder 1 Plug:
01_Cylinder1Plug.webp

Cylinder 1 Compression:
02_Cylinder1Comp.webp

Cylinder 2 Plug:
03_Cylinder2Plug.webp

Cylinder 2 Compression: Didn't get a picture (:confused:)

Cylinder 3 Plug:
05_Cylinder3Plug.webp

Cylinder 3 Compression:
06_Cylinder3Compression.webp


Continued below...
 
Cylinder 6 Plug:
11_Cylinder6Plug.webp

Cylinder 6 Compression:
12_Cylinder6Comp.webp

Compression Readings:
13_CompressionReadings.jpg.webp

Subtracting 15 PSI for the zeroing issue of the gauge, the cylinder readings were:
  • Cylinder 1: 195 PSI
  • Cylinder 2: 185 PSI
  • Cylinder 3: 185 PSI
  • Cylinder 4: 50 PSI
  • Cylinder 5: 30 PSI
  • Cylinder 6: 0 PSI
As I said, I did not have the opportunity to put oil in the low compression cylinders to see if the compression improved (sign of bad rings) or not (sign of valve or HG issue). So, the test is admittedly not conclusive. Also, this was done on a cold engine.

When I buttoned everything back up and ran the engine briefly with the PVC valve hose disconnected, there was visible vapor being ejected from the valve. Thus, I do not think that the PCV valve is clogged or stuck shut.

I also checked the coolant again, and it was full with no signs of oil floating on top.

I'd be interested to hear thought on this. My preliminary assumptions are as follows:
  1. PCV valve seems to be working.
  2. Oil in every cylinder is concerning. I assume that excessing crankcase pressure could force oil past the rings? Is that possible? Or, maybe more likely, excessive crankcase pressure was forcing liquid oil out of the PCV valve and the engine was ingesting it. There was a small amount of liquid oil in the throttle body.
  3. Having ring failure on three adjacent cylinders seems unlikely (maybe?)
  4. A blown HG would likely show up on two adjacent cylinders, but three? I am not sure how HGs usually fail on these 1FZs.
  5. There is still no evidence of coolant mixing with oil, another telltale HG sign. Although, if the headgasket failed catastrophically at the rear of the block, the engine has only been run a total of less than five minutes since the failure. Maybe it hasn't had time to mix and show up in the radiator or under the oil cap yet?
  6. It seems as if somehow, combustion chamber pressure is entering the crankcase creating the excessive crankcase pressure. The PCV valve was passing A LOT of vapor as soon as the engine was started. I am not sure if this is typical of the PCV system or not, but I would think not.
Any additional thoughts, as always, are appreciated! Does this information point to one thing over another? Thanks!

Best,
Tim
 
Leakdown test it.

That will tell you if it's rings, intake valve, exhaust valve, or ??

But something is definitely wrong given those compression numbers.

Plugs look horrible, but how old are they?

Did you hold the throttle body butterfly open when cranking?
 
Leakdown test it.

That will tell you if it's rings, intake valve, exhaust valve, or ??

But something is definitely wrong given those compression numbers.

Plugs look horrible, but how old are they?

Did you hold the throttle body butterfly open when cranking?
Not sure on the age of the plugs. I would suspect they are two to three years old.

Yes, I did hold the throttle body open while cranking on the comp test.

My mechanic should be doing a leak down test early this upcoming week.
 
The only things that could cause low compression in three cylinders ate once:
Blown head gasket
Broken Cam
Multiple broken valves
Multiple broken rings.

Having that much oil in ALL cylinders is puzzling. That has to come from the intake side to feed all cylinders.

Those plugs are definitely NOT new. They look like they have about 75K-100K on them.

Definitely run a borescope in those cylinders.

Were the Valve Cover Park Plug tubes full of oil and we're seeing residual oil than ran down the plugs upon removal?
 
I think your observed engine behavior in the first post ( and the results of compression test ) likely point to lubrication issue.
The overall condition of the vehicle and your ownership plans ( long or short ) will determine the install of a used or new engine. If you have the time, pull the engine and perform an autopsy.
 
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