Bad Brake Bleeding vs. Badly Adjusted LSPV

flintknapper

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I've used the pressure bleeding method for many years. I won't say it is necessarily 'better' than the old method of using a helper to pump up the pedal...but it is faster. Just crack the bleeder screw and let the fluid flow into a catch bottle until fresh fluid is observed and no air bubbles. What could be simpler.

The greatest advantage is that it only requires one person. Yes, you might have to pump the pressure back up a time or two if you have a stubborn system, but for me...its the only way to go.
 
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Thanks for everyone's advice. I will wait and see if the shop can bleed it properly. If not, I'll try my hand at it.
 
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I just did this in that very sequence after installing some extended lines on Saturday, pressure bleeder makes this a pretty simple task honestly. It's saved my arse on many a clutch slave bleed on my own!
Once I used a pressure bleeder, I will never go the old way, I can do them by myself faster than a 2 man crew , and it can be a flush bleed
 
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Little update: got the 80 back after they tried bleeding the brakes a second time. While it does feel better, the pedal is still spongy.

I'm going to try bleeding the brakes myself tomorrow. First going to activate the ABS on a gravel road, and then I'll use the Motive pressure bleeder starting at the LSPV and then the calipers. Wish me luck!
 

flintknapper

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Little update: got the 80 back after they tried bleeding the brakes a second time. While it does feel better, the pedal is still spongy.

I'm going to try bleeding the brakes myself tomorrow. First going to activate the ABS on a gravel road, and then I'll use the Motive pressure bleeder starting at the LSPV and then the calipers. Wish me luck!
I think that is a good plan. Let us know if you see any improvement afterward. Like I said...it's not an easy system to bleed.
 

Rivman1243

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Has anyone ever tried to put their 80 on jack stands and put it in drive and then hit the brakes to see if the abs will kick in? I know it works on semi's but that's because it's not AWD.
 

flintknapper

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Has anyone ever tried to put their 80 on jack stands and put it in drive and then hit the brakes to see if the abs will kick in? I know it works on semi's but that's because it's not AWD.
Never tried that but I recommend caution doing so. The tires and rims represent quite a bit of rotating mass...that when suddenly stopped will create a forward force nearest the direction of the brake caliper. Wouldn't want your Cruiser to fall off a wobbly jack stand, so be certain to place them well if you try this.
 
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I jack the the truck up, then with the wheels spinning watch the rears as I hit the brakes to see how they are locking up and adjust the lspv accordingly to get me close. Then drive it on a dirt road and adjust a bit more.
 
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After power bleeding 2.5 quarts of brake fluid my brakes are back to normal! Here's what I did...

  1. Drive on gravel/dirt and activate ABS, them drive it home.
  2. Put the 80 on jack stands safely and take wheels off.
  3. Use the power bleeder and begin bleeding at the LSPV, then RR, RL, FR, FL. (Make sure to pump the power bleeder between locations to maintain pressure at 15PSI)
  4. Relieve the pressure from the power bleeder, you don't have to take the adapter off the brake reservoir.
  5. Turn the vehicle on and put it in drive (still on jack stands without wheels on), accelerated a TINY amount (my speedo never went above 15mph) then press the brake. This while activate the ABS a lot. Use the parking brake and foot brake to fully stop the wheels, the foot brake by itself won't be enough to stop the wheel because the ABS will just continue activating. I repeated this a couple of times.
  6. Bleed brakes again using power bleeder using the sequence in step 3.
  7. Repeat step 5.
  8. Bleed again.
This worked great for me, maybe it'll work for someone else having trouble! Thanks to everyone for the help.
 
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I had a tough time bleeding my rears once, seems I had some air trapped in my lspv. fixed it by removng the arm and manipulating the lever up and down a few times. A few months back I deleted my lspv and installed a manual valve. No regrets, 0 issues and it looks way cleaner underneath without the junk bolted to the axle. These 80 abs systems are a known PITroyalA. many guys have deleted theirs along with the lspv. I kinda like ABS sometimes.

FWIW, I've had the best luck bleeding my 80 using a 1-way setup and pounding the hell out of the pedal.
 
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I had a tough time bleeding my rears once, seems I had some air trapped in my lspv. fixed it by removng the arm and manipulating the lever up and down a few times. A few months back I deleted my lspv and installed a manual valve. No regrets, 0 issues and it looks way cleaner underneath without the junk bolted to the axle. These 80 abs systems are a known PITroyalA. many guys have deleted theirs along with the lspv.

FWIW, I've had the best luck bleeding my 80 using a 1-way setup and pounding the hell out of the pedal.
I can definitely see why some people choose to delete it. Maybe in the future I will. However since my 80 is low miles, etc, I thought it would be best to replace my leaking LSPV for the purpose of keeping everything original.
 

flintknapper

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Good job. Thanks for the update. I have never tried activating the ABS with the vehicle on Jack Stands but might try that now that we know about it. Thanks for sharing that information.

Flint.
 
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Good job. Thanks for the update. I have never tried activating the ABS with the vehicle on Jack Stands but might try that now that we know about it. Thanks for sharing that information.

Flint.
It might not be "correct" and could potentially put a lot of strain on the ABS system, however I think if it's only done a couple of times there's no significant risk. It would also definitely move bubbles in the lines. Just make sure that your vehicle is safely on jack stands, and I think taking the wheels off will reduce any forward moving momentum. (Someone previously mentioned that doing this could make the vehicle potentially fall off the stands when the wheels come to an abrupt stop in the air.)
 
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That is a good way to to make more work! When bleeding, the pedal should be pushed like normal driving, excessively pounding it can aerate, foam the fluid, making the job harder.
ya Ill take the criticism here... I agree its definitely not without risk, did not seem to have any aeration issues, I made sure to keep it full. .... its just the only thing that worked for me after many quarts of fluid and a hours of frustration.... getting all the small bubbles out seems to take a few good hard pumps on the pedal with the bleeder open, but restricted. (I was also cautious not to overextend the master cylinder when I did it)

My original intention was to use a power bleeder like I do in my other cars, didn't have much luck with the motive power bleeder attachment I ordered and had to get creative. That thing turned out quite useless for me.... maybe I did it wrong, but it worked a hell of a lot better on the video than it did in my driveway.
 

flintknapper

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Finally found my old pictures of the Adapter Cap you can purchase IF the universal one that comes with the Motive kit becomes too troublesome. This one attaches easily and definitely makes a seal. It is kind of pricey but extremely well made.

Just remove the rubber 'push on' cap from your reservoir. IF your strainer is still there...remove that to. Place the Adapter on the reservoir (gasket inside the neck). Turn the three locking tab knobs until they engage the outside of the reservoir neck...then turn the center knob clockwise to expand and seal the o-ringed gasket.

Much easier and more reliable than the Chain & Hook apparatus.

Toy Cap1.jpg


Toy Cap2.jpg


Toy Cap3.jpg
 
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