Axle Swap questions (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Repaired the e-locker plug courtesy of my 10 year old daughter. Used electrical terminal tools to pop the lock tab then the pin tab to remove the terminals. Then, unlock the new lock tab in the housing connector and insert pins until they snap in to place. We repaired the cracked plastic wire cover with some industrial heat shrink.
1919884
1919885
1919886
1919887
 
Kids prepped the e-locker body harness by removing the tape, plastic conduit, & separating the 5 key wires.
1920443
They taped the 5 wires all the way down and identified the correct pin position to transfer.
1920455
The wires are on one corner. 4 are green primary, 3 of which have a stripe added & the last is white. Simple sketch to help us with the wiring.
1920537
 
Began harness install with removing the drivers floor sill trim and foot rest. Found a loose zinc plated bolt and nut. Anyone recognize where they might have come from? At first glance the large square connector is not visible but it is on the firewall side behind another connector. Locking clip has to be popped up for pin removal and installation. Don’t forget to push back in when completed. Ran new harness next to body harness. Love my little Cruiser helper!
1920544
1920545
1920546
1920547
1920548
 
Next was to pop rear panel trim pieces and fish wire through around seat belt and down to the plug. Rear seat does not have to be removed. Just fold it down on the floor. Used wire ties to secure and a section of heat shrink around the seat belt area to prevent chaffing from the sheet metal. Taught my daughter how to do all of this and why we do it the way we do. Popped the final retainer by the plug by hand feeling the tabs to fish the wires through prior to installing the pins.
1920930
1920932
1920933
 
Closer pic of the plug wiring. Green/orange at top corner with green/black underneath. Note:the green/orange becomes green/blue on the next harness and the white becomes yellow/white. Then, large solid green with green/yellow and then white underneath. Start with the white first and work up to the corner to have more room to work. Once again don’t forget the housing lock tab.
1920999
Looking at the next harness that has the body grommet I noticed unused washer fluid lines that are connected by a y and open ended. This is totally separate from the washer line running from the front of the Land Cruiser. Wondering if this is left over from another market?
1921000
 
In continuing training of my little Cruiser mechanics we started by pulling the drivers rear bumper to gain better access since a new bumper is planned. She helped by pushing the harness through the body. Then we pushed the wires through the grommet, transferred the e-locker pins, and painted some liquid electrical tape on the cut from the trailer wiring that we previously removed and a pin prick accidentally done pushing the pins through. We didn’t reinstall as I need to find where the wht/blk ground wire was attached from the factory.
1921957
1921958
 
This is the plug under the bottle jack that runs to the rear sill next. Where does this blk/wht ground wire go?
1922004
 
Removed the tire carrier and began removal of the non e-locker harness. The e-locker harness is identical in mounting but longer. Accidentally broke one of the white holder clips which I’d like to find a source. Decided to use an exacto knife to cut the tape off the mounting clips behind the coil tower and on the cross member. The clip hidden behind the coil tower was the hardest as it has to be done by feel. It appears the gas tank would have to be removed to access it otherwise. Between the original harness and donor harness there were enough clips to make a complete harness. Tie wraps instead of tape were used to resecure. Planning on finishing this as soon as I can look at another e-locker truck. Kids have really enjoyed this project.
1922611
1922612
 
Thanks to @JohnnyOshow22 was able to look at another rig to see how Mr. T routed the wiring and looked at the EWD to understand the ground wire which appears to just be tied in with the other grounds. Tonight finished securing the new harness to the the e-locker and realized I don’t have a cover for it.
66696FA9-04BF-4546-BD9C-2D8E2B376B6C.jpeg
84B31CF8-C119-4ECE-985D-7FB1F25E8C21.jpeg
 
We finished the e-locker wiring tonight! Taped up the added e-locker wires to the original harness and finished it off with flex loom. Soldered an extension on the ground wire matched with wire from our donor harness using heat shrink on one side and a crimped factory style ring connector on the other. Bolted it on top of the lower jack holder mount where it fastens to the body. Used a strip of heat shrink to protect the wire from chafing. The original ground I believe was tapped into the harness at the T of the main harness with the fuel pump/ABS. I’m not a fan of how Toyota just used tape over these crimps mid wire and prefer a ground bolt to the body. Performed a continuity test at the end and all is well. Will have to wait until the drivetrain is back in before we can test the lockers as the CDL has to be activated electrically.
1925217
1925219
1925222
1925223
1925224
 
Will have to wait until the drivetrain is back in before we can test the lockers as the CDL has to be activated electrical.

Should be able to short the two pins on the CDL sensor connector to fool the diff lock ECU into thinking the lock is complete in order to test front and rear lockers.
 
Well, with the drivetrain out I have no engine, tranny, or transfer case harnesses installed.:(
 
Did you finish this project ?
I know hes chipping away at it. We pressed some of the transfer case gears apart last week and he's gotten more and more of the engine back from the machine shop. Going to be a great 80 when he wraps it up!
 
Long term update: Yes, this swap went great! Sometimes the rear locker seems slow to get going at the beginning of the season but has never let me down!
 
30k mile update: Rear axle has been harder on the wheel bearings than the front. Not really sure why. Went through this drama:
In hindsight, I should have repacked the rear bearings at 15k. They really loosened up. Front looked good and only slightly looser at 30k on them. With the heavier rig and bigger tires, etc I'm bumping the torque up to 55 ft/lbs on the bearings and moving from Mobil 1 to Valvoline Synthetic in the wheel bearings for the extra moly and cold temp rating.
Brake dust of the Penske pads has been bad but they still appear to have half of their life. Bled the brakes with OEM Toyota fluid as it doesn't seem to turn dark nearly as quickly.
IMG_9669.jpeg


Swapped the rear differential last weekend with a friend for a tighter one. Discovered the elocker actuator is stuck in lock.
IMG_9598.jpeg
 
Pulled the magnet cover off to see if the magnets were loose. They’ve been re glued and 2 have opposite polarity using a magnetic pen. I’m thinking this is not right. But what is the correct direction of install?
IMG_9782.jpeg
 
After further investigation, a Toyota buddy explained to me that this is the correct magnet orientation so at this point I'm going to have to pull the actuator assembly to check measurements and test on the bench. Wondering if it's out of adjustment at this point. A couple of links for reference:
 
I pulled the other cover off and snapped this picture that looks different from one of the threads I looked at as far as orientation of that inner wheel. Unclear if you wanna take the actuator completely off to index it or you do it from here.

IMG_1888.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom