Axle Swap questions (1 Viewer)

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Started an axle swap project to install e-locker axles. I've disconnected the lower shock mounts, removed the springs, and am working on brake removal.

Even with the shocks not holding the axle up, is it the combination of the 4 control arms that prevent the axle from drooping too much? Is it better to remove the upper or lower ones first? Or does it matter?

Also, I would like to remove the brake backing plates and have the 4 nuts removed on the back. What else do I need to do to get them out? Thanks!
 
Brake lines, ABS lines, and parking brake cable can all limit axle travel. Control arm bushings torque to 130 ft#, so if the are in good shape, the rubber in them will only allow limited travel. I would remove the upper arm bolts first, but I would keep a jack under the axle to prevent sudden movement.
 
Thanks. I've got a jack under it right now. I'm so glad I'm tearing into this now because the condition of the brakes is just downright dangerous.
 
So your axles are on Craigslist then lol...I was wondering if I'd figure out who it was.
 
could you post pics of some of the issues you encounter or even document it?

This is the first time I've done an axle swap. I used some extra height jack stands to put just forward of the rear control arms. Granted, my drivetrain is out so the truck is already sitting higher on factory springs. I have a floor jack under the pumpkin to adjust the axle height. I soaked everything with penetrant prior to removal except brake parts. I also use a little trick I learned awhile back that sometimes helps with old or rusty bolts to prevent breakage which is to slightly tighten the bolt first before loosening. Since I've read on mud that some people have experience with the bolts breaking I did this and so far no broken bolts. The tires and wheels were the toughest part of removal so far because they were corroded on the hub, probably on there for too long as the frame looks pretty good. So, they used some persuasion from the drivers side kicking the tires and the passenger one I ended up having to use my 10 lb. sledge hammer to hit the inside rubber as I rotated it to get it off. That's the worst one I've ever had to do. Then, I removed the sway bar and LSPV followed by the lower shock mounts and springs because I wanted to compare them to my new King springs.

The, next step isn't necessary unless you want to inspect your brake components or swap them. I removed the brake caliper, bracket, and disc. After finding what I did, I'm really glad I never drove this truck. The rotors were worn below the minimum, the caliper piston was grooved and ruined due to one of the hardware clips missing and the pad had not been riding centered on the caliper piston. The previous mechanic even left an older brake pad backing plate the had been run into the metal for me! LOL!
 
At a minimum, what do I have to remove to get the backing plate off?
 
Thanks! I thought it looked that way. I think I may be able to leave the parking brake intact.
 
I started loosening up the upper control arms and was able to break those bolts free with a pipe on a breaker bar and the breaker bar helped to loosen the upper shock mounting bolts. I also removed the 6 axle shaft flange nuts and washers, but I'm having no luck getting the cone washers off. Ive hit it with my brass punch in the center of the flange per the FSM as well as on the studs as that has worked well for me on Aisin hubs. I've soaked these too with penetrant. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
instead of removing brake lines, I'm pretty sure we just removed the hard line brackets and strapped the calipers with them still connected to the frame. Saves the mess and bleeding of brakes later.

You can kind of see it in thee pictures.

IMG_0316.PNG

IMG_0317.PNG


EDIT: Dammit, I forgot what I did for the rear.
 
LOL! I started on the rear axle. Brakes and calipers were trashed. It's the rear axle flange I'm trying to remove as I need to save the backing plates. Thanks!
 
Today I tried the brass punch again on the studs and the cone washers came out. It's fascinating to me how many times Ive been stuck on something vehicle related and 24 hours later it just works. So, the shocks on both sides are out now and the drivers side cone washers are out. The passenger rear disc is stuck on, so that's the next adventure with the cone washer's on that side.
 
I would double check your rear upper shock mounts. Mine turned out to be backed out 1/2 inch on each side.

Also it pays to have a few good taps to clean all of the holes. I can't remember all of the sizes but there are 3 main ones you will use.

When it comes time to bleeding the brakes a little 25 dollar mighty vac does wonders. I would change all of the fluid at this time. Don't forget to bleed the LPSV.


Are you planning on using the factory switch and ecu? Let me know if you have any questions, I just did this so its still kind of fresh.

Good things to do during this time:
Brake fluid change
sway bar bushings
brakes
repack wheel bearings ( in my case rebuild the entire axle)
make sure you put the correct spring on the correct side. They will usually be labeled


Things I wish I would've done was
New bushings in the control arms
extended brake lines or just extend the brackets on the rear
adjustable trac bars
 
Thanks! The brake pads were interesting. Very uneven wear on the drivers side and less wear on the passenger side. So, I started ordering some brake parts. Ordered a brake disc and some carbon fiber brake pads. I plan on ordering 2 replacement rear calipers too.

I removed the rear upper shock mounts since new shocks and springs are going in. I was also thinking about tapping the holes and I have a mighty vac, but it sounds like you bleed the LSPV separately???

I'm installing 50 mm HD lift springs. Do I need to raise the LSPV? The reason I ask is that I put the new spring next to the OEM spring and they are the same height unloaded. So, as I understand it my brake lines should be ok for length.

I have the factory switch and locker ECU installed. What I don't know is where the rear wiring is on the Collectors Edition as I was told that is different than the other models.
 
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Discovered the passenger rear disc is frozen onto the parking brake. Ugh....
 
Finished getting the cone washers off and the disc. It required a lot of working to get it off as one of the parking brake pins had come off and was jamming the brake. Drained the axle and lots on the magnet. I wonder if that is the high mileage or a sign of the viscous coupling seizing.
 
Some brake parts came in and look at the drain plug I pulled out.
IMG_1196.JPG
IMG_1198.JPG
 
If you have uneven wear on the pads, like if the inside is worn more than outside then your caliper is probably sticking and dragging. I would check those out before killing a new set of pads.

The metal on the plug .... I would just clean it and change the fluid and recheck in 1000 miles or so.

The coupler in the transfer case?? I'm not sure how that would cause metal in the axle.

And yes you bleed the lspv during the brake bleed. It's in the fan but I when I bleed brakes I do the furthest wheel from master and work my way up. So I do pass rear, driver rear, lspv, pass front and then driver front. Then I do it all again.

Pretty sure the wiring is same for collectors. It will not have the plug you need so you need to add a plug or swap in an entire harness.
 
Thanks. I will be ordering replacement calipers since they are ruined by prior improper installation.

If the viscous coupler locks up, your basically driving in high range 4WD all of the time that puts extra stress and increased wear on all of the drivetrain parts.

Thanks for the tips on bleeding and wiring. I usually bleed the furthest wheel too.
 

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