Axle Swap questions

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Cleaned recirculating ball for new seal. Packed seal around spring with moly grease to prevent spring from coming out. Lubed the seal to keep it from running dry. Using a 50mm seal driver, installed seal carefully.
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As I’m writing this after install I see tools suggestion. I’ve done it both ways before. Never had a problem either way. I guess I was feeling like doing it the way Mr. T did. A friend welded diff drain plug protection on his and now his paper gasket is dripping.

I agree that sometimes (or even most times) it works, but when it doesn't, it is not a fun fix. Personally I would fix it before putting it in the truck.
 
The hardest thing about this job is the time it takes to clean the grungy parts like the knuckle housings, trunnion bearing caps, spindle, and birfields. The actual job itself is not that bad once you get it clean. So, amidst the busyness off life I am slowly piddling through this with my 12 year old daughters help with a little time here and there. Today we worked on cleaning the drivers knuckle, spindle, recirculating ball, and inner axle seal replacement. She told her mom today that she hopes the Cruiser never gets done so we can spend more time together working on it. :) Priceless. I told her not to worry about it that with her dad there will probably always be something to work on.
 
Wondering if people greasing the felts and/or recirculating ball prior to install? Thanks!
 
I heard of someone doing that. Thought I’d check here.
 
Thursday night went by my local cruiser shop Overland Cruisers to have him take a look and inspect the birfields with the question I had about in/out play. Since all looked good and within normal spec checked that off the list for now.

Took a little break on this yesterday to take a Saturday drive to see a 70 series. A little too rusty for me but fun to drive one for the first time.

So, this afternoon after swapping snows off the family car for summer tires and an oil change we were able to do the rest of the large part cleaning such as the rest of the tie rod, trunnion bearings and ABS sensors. Other than hardware cleaning which we will do with reassembly we are finally ready to start putting it back together.
 
Tonight we greased up the trunnion bearings, installed the knuckles, tie rod, and elocker actuator.
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Torqued up the trunnions and dust seals. Started packing the passenger side and birfield with moly. Used 2 tubes. I’m noticing the hexagon and round thin gaskets are shiny on one side and paper like on the other. Does the orientation matter?
 
Here’s a pic. I’m assuming the cutouts point down on both?
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After looking at the knuckle early the cutouts have to point down since the lowest two bolt holes on the knuckle are wider than top and the gaskets match that
 
Ok. I see what you're saying. Still curious about the different sides. Thanks!
 
I was planning on finishing up some computer training at work when my laptop died, my desktop wouldn’t run the site and my mobile phone said not for mobile devices so good excuse to puddle away on the Turtle project.

Spindle, backing plate, gaskets, and abs sensor installed.
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Cleaned & packed bearings with Mobil 1. Used a seal driver to install the oil seal.
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Cool diagram. That’s how I fill it initially and then I add some between the bearing and seal.
 
Cool diagram. That’s how I fill it initially and then I add some between the bearing and seal.

From the picture it looked like it is full between the bearings.
 
Oh no. I did go back and take a little out. I’m always afraid to not have enough. Just torqued per FSM instructions and am right about 8 lbf preload.
 
And done with the passenger side following the FSM to torque everything to spec. Still waiting on brakes due to caliper bolts and pads disappearing. I may have to spring for some new ones.
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