Axle Rebuild & Things (1 Viewer)

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VermontFJ60

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Recently sandblasted and painted the axles (and frame) and now wondering what are the best things to change since the axles are off. I’m going to be doing knuckle rebuilds on both sides but wondering what else should be done at this stage.

Suspension, pads and rotors, brake lines, sway bars, etc.

Thanks in advance!

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I’d do all the brake soft lines which are available still and check your master cylinder now. If it’s leaking into the booster now is a good time to replace that too. A good rule to follow is replace any rubber components. I’d replace the tie rod ends as well.
 
If you are doing new brakelines dont use NiCop. Use PVC coated steel. Nicop is easy to work with but is too soft and if snagged on brush it will not hold up to it like steel will. Diff breathers.
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
If you are doing new brakelines dont use NiCop. Use PVC coated steel. Nicop is easy to work with but is too soft and if snagged on brush it will not hold up to it like steel will. Diff breathers.
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Is that for the soft or hard brake lines?

And can you elaborate on Diff breathers?

Thanks!
 
DrRock said:
I’d do all the brake soft lines which are available still and check your master cylinder now. If it’s leaking into the booster now is a good time to replace that too. A good rule to follow is replace any rubber components. I’d replace the tie rod ends as well.
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Soft lines will certainly be ordered as well and the hard short ones that go from caliper to backing plate. And tie rods...

I might be reaching out to you regarding the master cylinder test, that seems like something to check!
 
VermontFJ60 said:
Soft lines will certainly be ordered as well and the hard short ones that go from caliper to backing plate. And tie rods...

I might be reaching out to you regarding the master cylinder test, that seems like something to check!
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Fantastic, feel free to DM me anytime. Once winter starts, I’ll be up to VT frequently so if you need any help, let me know.
 
Got the knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters and wondering about the shims. Is there a certain number that typically works best on the top and on the bottom? When I took off the passenger side there was 4 shims and when I took off the driver side there was 2. And only 1 on the bottom.

Just wondering if there is a standard that goes on top vs bottom to help with the resistance?
 
i don't believe there's a set number for that. the amount n thickness of shims is dependent on measurements taken as reassembly is underway. that's for centering the hub with the axle shaft. resistance is adjusted by tightening or loosening knuckle bearing. see page 6-11 though 6-13 in the land cruiser repair manual
 
VermontFJ60 said:
Just wondering if there is a standard that goes on top vs bottom to help with the resistance?
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This might be a good time to borrow the SST for centering your axles to the knuckles and do the math thing to help determine what shims you need.
 
Pighead said:
This might be a good time to borrow the SST for centering your axles to the knuckles and do the math thing to help determine what shims you need.
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How do you go about centering the axles on the knuckles? And where does one borrow the SST?

I've have a spring pulley resistance measuring tool that I used to calculate the passenger side.
 
VermontFJ60 said:
How do you go about centering the axles on the knuckles? And where does one borrow the SST?

I've have a spring pulley resistance measuring tool that I used to calculate the passenger side.
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I borrowed the SST from another 'Mud member, I just posted that I needed one. There's probably a section in the FSM detailing how to do it, probably something in the 40/55 tech FAQs too. I forget where I found it, but it wasn't too hard. I had to use my biggest calipers.
Some shops have a Rule of Thumb procedure to do it without the SST, they'll use a routine set of shims on the bottom and pick some shims for the top, if the pre-load ( with the fish scale) is within specs, it's probably close enough.
Did you get the Marlin axle seals from Cruiser Outfitters?

EDIT: Steering knuckle centering tool instructions (FAQ) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steering-knuckle-centering-tool-instructions-faq.280575/

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Pighead said:
I borrowed the SST from another 'Mud member, I just posted that I needed one. There's probably a section in the FSM detailing how to do it, probably something in the 40/55 tech FAQs too. I forget where I found it, but it wasn't too hard. I had to use my biggest calipers.
Some shops have a Rule of Thumb procedure to do it without the SST, they'll use a routine set of shims on the bottom and pick some shims for the top, if the pre-load ( with the fish scale) is within specs, it's probably close enough.
Did you get the Marlin axle seals from Cruiser Outfitters?

EDIT: Steering knuckle centering tool instructions (FAQ) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/steering-knuckle-centering-tool-instructions-faq.280575/
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I got the knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters so whatever inner axle oil seal they include is what I put back in. Which I don't think is the Marlin Crawler one.

4x/5x/6x/7x Series Knuckle Rebuild Kit - Fits 9/1975-12/89 4x/5x/6x/7x Series & 1979-85 PU/4RNR Disc Axle - https://cruiserteq.com/4x-5x-6x-7x-series-knuckle-rebuild-kit-fits-9-1975-12-89-4x-5x-6x-7x-series-1979-85-pu-4rnr-disc-axle/
 
I can’t help but wonder how many knuckle jobs are out there on the road without a fart of a thought about that tool.. I’m guessing at least a few
 
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