Axle and steering parts paint

[WarDamnEagle]

What would you guys use to paint these axles? There really isn't much rust but I'm rebuilding both front and rear axles this summer and installing new TRD elockers so there will be a bit of welding on the axles. I want to do this once and never again. Therefore I'm considering products like POR15 with Chassis Black topcoat or Rust Bullet with their top coat, etc.

I also want to paint the dust shields, J arms, etc. while everything is apart.

Maybe just a good primer and top coat instead of all the expensive rust-killing products?

Here's a photo. Needs a good steam cleaning as it's got years of red mud everywhere.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

...and while I'm asking. I will be installing welded on sliders and would like to paint them and that large tie-rod that you see in the photo with the same paint...

Tie rod just has Rustoleum primer and satin black top-coat that I threw on it last summer when it was installed. I would rather have something a bit more substantial. I realize that on new steel I will need to clean, sand, etc. before anything will stick very well.

I did search and found some good threads on painting new steel (e.g. Latinoguy asking about new sliders) but I couldn't find much specific to axles and/or steering parts. Lot's of good info on body and frame painting. Maybe frames and axles should have similar treatment?

Thanks!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

O.K. please ignore the first two posts. I'll be more precise.

Has anyone ever painted an axle and, if so, what would you recommend?

Thanks in advance!

 

[rabid]

I just shot a winch for a friend with the rust bullet blackshell stuff. Straight out of a $20 gun, no thinning, minor prep. A quart of the stuff will be more than enough to do both axles two or three times, and still have a ton left over. Easy to shoot, which is good, since I suck at it. For even better protection, use rustbullet silver automotive under it.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I put DP90LF on my axles and am planning on using that as the final coat. I think it's pretty close to chassis black, but the epoxy primer sticks like nobody's business. It's also easy to shoot.

I don't know how it will hold up, the truck isn't done yet.

Dan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I put DP90LF on my axles and am planning on using that as the final coat. I think it's pretty close to chassis black, but the epoxy primer sticks like nobody's business. It's also easy to shoot.

I don't know how it will hold up, the truck isn't done yet.

Dan

Well I had to google DP90LF but it's a PPG primer? Why wouldn't you put a PPG topcoat on? Obviously I'm clueless, thus the dumb questions.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I didn't go with a topcoat because the paint jobber said I didn't need one. :0 Really, the epoxy primer is really tough stuff, and it sure looks danged close to chassis black in my book. I hate glossy frames and axles (that's for city folk ).

There's definitely some debate about using the primer as a topcoat, as it is porous (which is why it's a primer). But in New Mexico, it's dry enough I'm not in the least worried about moisture getting into the pores and doing anything untoward.

Here's some pictures of how it turned out. I'm thinking that I'll just leave it this way and see how it turns out. Our paint jobber has some stuff that lives outside that has been painted in simple DP90LF primer, and it still looks good and hasn't had any adhesion problems.

I'm certainly no expert either, but the DP primers are awesome to spray, and I'd use them even if I were to put a topcoat on (which is why I didn't hesitate to just put the DP90LF on it).

Dan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Well I bit the bullet and went with POR15. I stripped the axles with a BASG (that's big a** side grinder) with a wire cup, steam cleaned and then prepped with their metal ready. I put on two coats of POR15 about 2 hours apart (it was hot and humid so this stuff cured really fast). I then put one coat of their chassis black top coat. They look fantastic. I also painted the steering arms, axle hubs, and Marlin Tie-Rod. I decided not to do the dust shield as it's aluminum and looked pretty good after a bit of cleaning.

Here are some before and after pics:

 

[fieldsken1]

why not powdercoat do it right

 

[nuclearlemon]

why not powdercoat do it right

because the axles get beat up and powdercoat doesn't "touch up" nicely.

i just use krylon satin black, but i love the look of the por15...treeroot did that and years later of abuse it still looks good. just make sure you have a dang good respirator cause it makes ya a bit loopy.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

because the axles get beat up and powdercoat doesn't "touch up" nicely.

i just use krylon satin black, but i love the look of the por15...treeroot did that and years later of abuse it still looks good. just make sure you have a dang good respirator cause it makes ya a bit loopy.

I really didn't smell the paint much at all. I wasn't spraying and I was outside but under roof. I used a 1 1/2 brush and couldn't believe how well this stuff levels out. Although I really didn't care (they are just axles after all), they look sprayed.

I can imagine that if you sprayed in a confined space, however, that you would really want a good respirator.