Auxiliary Fuel tank filler neck alternative (5 Viewers)

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Just throwing this problem out there because I'm sure someone probably has figured out a better way of doing this.

I have a 22 gallon con-ferr style aux tank in the rear of the FJ40 with the typical style of aftermarket filler neck that it comes with. Also have a pollack valve so I can draw from either one. The problem right now is the filler neck has to sit below than the wheel wells, which puts the cap only a few inches higher than the tank. Most of the time it's not a problem, but if I have a full tank and happen to be at an angle, or the gas starts expanding, fuel starts leaking out of the cap. I also have cutoff stock fuel filler door and neck which I was planning on installing for a more stock look, but I'm not sure if that would work any better since it would still be in the same location.

So I've been staring at the underside of the 40 trying to come up with alternatives.

1. Raise the filler neck to the level of the stock one by cutting in to the wheel wells. Don't really want to do this because it would interfere with storing stuff on top of the wheel wells.
2. Relocate the filler to the rear, which probably would have the same problem unless I cut into the wheel wells like above. But I'd be more inclined to have it intrude towards the rear of the tub than on the side.
3. Fabricate a split filler neck in the stock location . This is my ideal solution, but the problem is trying to figure out how to get the filler hose from inside the tub (at the filler neck) to outside the tub (at the tank). Can't think of a clean way of doing this, and I'm pretty sure I'd run into problems getting fuel to flow that far of a distance unless it's a straight shot.
4. Last idea is to eliminate the aux filler neck entirely. Thinking about running a 3 way valve from the stock pickup tube to a custom plug on the rear tank and gravity feeding it. Valve would be shutoff during normal operation to prevent a leak from draining all the fuel. Filling this way would be really slow through a 3/8 fuel line, but it's not a big deal for me, I'd fill the main tank and let it gravity feed while I'm driving, then fill again until the aux tank is full. Or i could use an electric fuel pump as a transfer pump to speed up the process, and that would give me a spare fuel pump in case the stock one dies. If I link the vent lines together, there wouldn't be a risk of overfilling as any overflow would just spill back into the stock filler tube.

any thoughts or better ideas? Found a pic of the current setup, even shows the fuel leakage.

DSC_0545.JPG
 
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Removed the leaky, rusty fuel tank/bomb from under the passenger seat and discarded it. Installed a 21 gallon tank under the rear and moved the stock fuel filler to the rear. (Purchased the steel tank from BTB for $900 before they jacked the price way up.) The fuel filler is hidden to a point and there is much less possibility of having the cap ripped off when off-road. Plus it smooths the side which, IMHO, makes it look cleaner.

DWS_1192.JPG
 
Mine required paint and body work to move but I like the hidden look while maintaining the stock opening, in a different place.

DWS_1160.JPG
 
Just throwing this problem out there because I'm sure someone probably has figured out a better way of doing this.

I have a 22 gallon con-ferr style aux tank in the rear of the FJ40 with the typical style of aftermarket filler neck that it comes with. Also have a pollack valve so I can draw from either one. The problem right now is the filler neck has to sit below than the wheel wells, which puts the cap only a few inches higher than the tank. Most of the time it's not a problem, but if I have a full tank and happen to be at an angle, or the gas starts expanding, fuel starts leaking out of the cap. I also have cutoff stock fuel filler door and neck which I was planning on installing for a more stock look, but I'm not sure if that would work any better since it would still be in the same location.

So I've been staring at the underside of the 40 trying to come up with alternatives.

1. Raise the filler neck to the level of the stock one by cutting in to the wheel wells. Don't really want to do this because it would interfere with storing stuff on top of the wheel wells.
2. Relocate the filler to the rear, which probably would have the same problem unless I cut into the wheel wells like above. But I'd be more inclined to have it intrude towards the rear of the tub than on the side.
3. Fabricate a split filler neck in the stock location . This is my ideal solution, but the problem is trying to figure out how to get the filler hose from inside the tub (at the filler neck) to outside the tub (at the tank). Can't think of a clean way of doing this, and I'm pretty sure I'd run into problems getting fuel to flow that far of a distance unless it's a straight shot.
4. Last idea is to eliminate the aux filler neck entirely. Thinking about running a 3 way valve from the stock pickup tube to a custom plug on the rear tank and gravity feeding it. Valve would be shutoff during normal operation to prevent a leak from draining all the fuel. Filling this way would be really slow through a 3/8 fuel line, but it's not a big deal for me, I'd fill the main tank and let it gravity feed while I'm driving, then fill again until the aux tank is full. Or i could use an electric fuel pump as a transfer pump to speed up the process, and that would give me a spare fuel pump in case the stock one dies. If I link the vent lines together, there wouldn't be a risk of overfilling as any overflow would just spill back into the stock filler tube.

any thoughts or better ideas? Found a pic of the current setup, even shows the fuel leakage.

View attachment 1581558


Sounds like your biggest problem is the vent gas cap or not a tight fitting gas cap. Replace the gas cap with a proper non-vented gas cap. Then figure a place a way to run a vent to the front tank which should also be non-vented on a 75/76. Not sure how your set up works now but should have some type of return. Guessing your back tank doesn't have a return or separate vent now. With a sealed gas cap tank would go into a vacuum without a way to fill the space created by the gas being used.
 
Following this thread with interest. I have an auxiliary tank with the filler tube in the rear passenger wheel well. It was beat to heck when that tire had a flat and shredded itself. Filler neck was hanging on by a thread, and bent the sheet metal it where it was attached. I want to relocate the filler to the back and get the filler tube out of harm's way.

IMG_6072.jpg
IMG_6073.jpg
 
Following this thread with interest. I have an auxiliary tank with the filler tube in the rear passenger wheel well. It was beat to heck when that tire had a flat and shredded itself. Filler neck was hanging on by a thread, and bent the sheet metal it where it was attached. I want to relocate the filler to the back and get the filler tube out of harm's way.

View attachment 1581755 View attachment 1581756

Unless your planning on a different tank the fill hose will still be in the wheel well. Maybe not as exposed but when the tread breaks free it will still be there. Could modify the tank for the fill come thru the top and run inside the cab and thru the floor. In the early seventies Toyota had a emissions tank in the right rear wheel well with a skid plate to protect it. Could do the same, just build a skid plate to protect the hose. With a passenger's side rear spare tire carrier a fill in the back corner would be hidden and cleaner look.
 
Following this thread with interest. I have an auxiliary tank with the filler tube in the rear passenger wheel well. It was beat to heck when that tire had a flat and shredded itself. Filler neck was hanging on by a thread, and bent the sheet metal it where it was attached. I want to relocate the filler to the back and get the filler tube out of harm's way.

View attachment 1581755 View attachment 1581756
Looks like it was time to fix that fender anyway. Your truck may have intentionally thrown a belt. It was saying "look dad, fix my fender".
With Real Steel selling out it may get harder and harder to get replacement metal. No time like the present
 
Looks like it was time to fix that fender anyway. Your truck may have intentionally thrown a belt. It was saying "look dad, fix my fender".
With Real Steel selling out it may get harder and harder to get replacement metal. No time like the present

Yes, I already have an order with CCOT for replacement fender metal. I like some of the clean installs I'm seeing here for the aux. filler. I have a recessed filler neck waiting in the wings. Just need to figure out where to put it. I have no issue cutting and welding the filler tube to avoid the wheel well. I like the idea of guarding it with a skidplate.
 
I have the same tank and filler neck in the same location.

I hate to be the simpleton, but I just fill the tank to never more than 18 gal., and that basically stops the slosh/leak problem. Combined with the OEM tank, my tank range exceeds my butt-sore range, by far.

In that the ConFerr tank has no venting provisions, I believe you are supposed to use a vented cap with that tank, and I do.
 
Removed the leaky, rusty fuel tank/bomb from under the passenger seat and discarded it. Installed a 21 gallon tank under the rear and moved the stock fuel filler to the rear. (Purchased the steel tank from BTB for $900 before they jacked the price way up.) The fuel filler is hidden to a point and there is much less possibility of having the cap ripped off when off-road. Plus it smooths the side which, IMHO, makes it look cleaner.

View attachment 1581599

Thanks. It looks like your filler neck still sits below the wheel wells. Do you have any problems with fuel leaking out when going uphill on a full tank?

There's the easy way and the harder way. Aftermarket fillers can be had a Filler Neck Supply. They are fairly easy installs.
OEM installs require willing donors and welding, bodywork and paint.

Fuel Filler Neck Protector / Dish / Bezel 21° Degree Housing

I was looking at doing something similar, I already have a spare OEM door and filler neck, but thought about relocating the filler to the rear. Raising it up in the current location would interfere with the stock roll bar mounting, plus I'd lose the rear light. I also like to keep the top of the wheel wells flat to store things. Space is really at a premium, so every nook and cranny is usually filled when I'm camping.

I have a con-ferr style tank, but I welded an extra port for the return line, so it's connected similar to the stock tank. The vent line right now just goes to the aux filler tube, I should T into the stock vent line but I don't think that will fix the problem. The gas cap was replaced when I installed the tank a while ago, but maybe the seals are bad on it again.

Unless your planning on a different tank the fill hose will still be in the wheel well. Maybe not as exposed but when the tread breaks free it will still be there. Could modify the tank for the fill come thru the top and run inside the cab and thru the floor. In the early seventies Toyota had a emissions tank in the right rear wheel well with a skid plate to protect it. Could do the same, just build a skid plate to protect the hose. With a passenger's side rear spare tire carrier a fill in the back corner would be hidden and cleaner look.

This is another reason I wanted to eliminate the aux filler tube completely, I don't like the fact that it's right behind the wheel exposed to damage. On my last trip I blew a tire on the highway, and it shredded by the time I could get to the nearest exit. Luckily it was on the drivers side so the only damage was a broken taillight and dented exhaust. If I go with option #4 above, I was thinking of making a plug for the fill tube and tap it for a hose fitting, or T into the return line and fill through that. That would keep most everything within the frame and protected.
IMG_0730.JPG
 
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I have the same tank and filler neck in the same location.

I hate to be the simpleton, but I just fill the tank to never more than 18 gal., and that basically stops the slosh/leak problem. Combined with the OEM tank, my tank range exceeds my butt-sore range, by far.

In that the ConFerr tank has no venting provisions, I believe you are supposed to use a vented cap with that tank, and I do.

That makes way too much sense :). Typically I'll try not to fill the rear tank all the way to prevent this problem, but the other problem I forgot to mention in the original post is the low filler neck also causes problems when filling at the gas station. I have to hold the hose a just the right angle or it shuts off, and I can only fill at half speed, I believe it's because there's not enough downslope to get the fuel into the tank fast enough. So there's quite a few reason I'm not happy with the current setup. Since I had the tank out to re-line it and I'm doing some body work, now would be a good time to fix everything.
 
That makes way too much sense :). Typically I'll try not to fill the rear tank all the way to prevent this problem, but the other problem I forgot to mention in the original post is the low filler neck also causes problems when filling at the gas station. I have to hold the hose a just the right angle or it shuts off, and I can only fill at half speed, I believe it's because there's not enough downslope to get the fuel into the tank fast enough. So there's quite a few reason I'm not happy with the current setup. Since I had the tank out to re-line it and I'm doing some body work, now would be a good time to fix everything.

I have this issue exactly when filling the auxiliary tank (which is currently my only functioning tank). I'd like to find a way to route the filler so I can fill it at full speed.
 
I assume you've ruled out Man-a-fre's long-range tank (it's super expensive, so I wouldn't blame you). But it would allow you to remove the Con-fer tank completely and keep your tank setup nice and simple.
 
Here is a shot of my 40 that has factory gas doors installed. We modified the inner tub, and also the metal tech cage to fit. View attachment 1581995

Any pictures of the inner tub? Does the metal tech cage mount in the stock location? With the filler at the same height as stock, how far does it protrude inside?


Do you have any problems with fuel leakage with a full tank? Where your filler is located is about an inch higher than where mine currently sits. I had considered mounting my second filler door in the exact same location below the light, but I think I'll still have the same problems with it being so low. Is there a reason you didn't mount the filler neck level with the stock one, other than wanting to keep the light?

I assume you've ruled out Man-a-fre's long-range tank (it's super expensive, so I wouldn't blame you). But it would allow you to remove the Con-fer tank completely and keep your tank setup nice and simple.

Seen the long range tank, but having the Conferr plus stock tank gives me more capacity than the man-a-fre. Plus, I like having separate tanks for redundancy and having more storage under the seat. Not to mention the $$$$$ of the long range tank would be worth more than the rest of the cruiser.
 
I will go snap some pics for the inside of the truck. I made them match for 2 reasons...

1. It looks correct!!

2. If you ever tried to fill the confer tank with the stock confer filler neck ... you know it is too low and doesn't fill well. My setup fills awesome!
 
I am eliminating the stock under seat tank and installing a s-10 tank in the rear. I also eliminated the stock fuel tank door. I have not made the fuel tube to the tank so I am not sure how it will fill. The project is still in the works.
 

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