Aussie 1984 refresh/mod down to chassis - 2F out 1UZ V8 in (Pics) (1 Viewer)

[Hellebore]

Hey guys - so Im finally ready to start a bit of a refresh on the 40 -
I am on a pretty tight budget but what i would like to achieve is:

-rust on chassis gone (not major rust yet but all the paint is gone so its covered in surface rust - will probably get it blasted)
-rust in the body cut out new bits welded in
-new paint -033 White as it was from factory (current paint is like chalk)
-all new rubbers/weatherstrip - probably from ccot as i cant find anywhere cheap in aus - only problem is the front windows as mine has 1/4 glass and ccot dosent seem to have window rubber for them
-sound deadening/heat sheild, most likely dynamat in it various forms i am taking the black tar stuff off - cant stand the stuff its all melting into the grooves in the floor and leaving the ridges exposed

-engine swap:
I am going to swap out the 2f (works fine but i want a more modern engine) with a Toyota 1UZ-FE v8 mated to the H55f transmission with a dellow conversion kit.

So yeah

Ill try and document it as I go.

all comments and suggestions welcome a lot of you have far more experience than me

Here are the Pics So far

As it was when i started

Some of the rust to repair

dunno how im going to fix this

After day one of the teardown

Pulling the engine - Ill miss the ol 2f :\

3rd day pulled loom, wheel and dash stuff

Damn Tar stuff

 

[waiting for time]

Sounds like a nice project, subscribed.
To repair the gutter you need to separate it from the glassfiber.

 

[Hellebore]

Damn i thought i may have to do that :\

should i take the whole thing off or just pull back a section? where can i get the rivets from? - they dont look like normal ones

 

[phase]

Looks like a good project, in much the same condition as mine is / was. I have the frame on mine blasted and painted and I'm hunting around for an engine now. I had considered the 1UZ a few years ago but I couldn't find anyone (including Dellow) who made the adaptors in Aus yet. Have you got a price on the conversion kit from Dellow? I would love fuel injection (and 200+KW too) so I might have to reconsider it as an option.

Good luck with the build.

Cheers.
Brendan.

 

[FJ40V8]

Quarter Glass Seal

Hey mate,

Have you tried Rare Spares for the quarter and door seals, i got mine from there, and your right they weren't that cheap, but the quality was excellent,

Looks like a great rig to start a project with, Good Luck!!!

 

[Hellebore]

I think ccot had the 1/4 glass seal but not the inside and outside winding windows seals (door belt?) and bailey channel for the same door, rare spares website is hopeless and confusing as all hell

Kit from Dellow is about 2k i think.

 

[Hellebore]

gearbox

another thing i noticed was the input shaft on my gearbox has a bit of play up and down - is this bad? i was hoping to leave it as is as reconditioning it is about $1800 which is money i haven't really budgeted for. The syncros are a bit dicey too but i can live with that...

 

[FJ40V8]

Rare Spares

Yep rare spares site isnt great, better off giving them a call. Geez if your box is in that condition, I would consider recon if you are going to put a heap more power through it, or it will probably fail sooner than later. Easier done now too!

 

[phase]

X2 on the reco. You will be putting almost twice as much power and torque through it so if the bearings and synchro's are worn now, she wont last long. Better to pull it apart and repair it now than to lunchbox it later and regret it.

 

[mustardfj40]

Can't wait to see the UZJ engine swap!!! Please share very detail pictures of the swap!

 

[lostmarbles]

another thing i noticed was the input shaft on my gearbox has a bit of play up and down - is this bad?..

...Geez if your box is in that condition, I would consider recon if you are going to put a heap more power through it, or it will probably fail sooner than later. Easier done now too!

X2 on the reco. You will be putting almost twice as much power and torque through it so if the bearings and synchro's are worn now, she wont last long. Better to pull it apart and repair it now than to lunchbox it later and regret it.

Without the front of the gearbox input shaft being supported in the flywheel pilot bearing, that end will ALWAYS have significant play.

(So that movement is normal for a gearbox that has been separated from its engine/bellhousing and it's not a sign of worn bearings.)

 

[waiting for time]

Damn i thought i may have to do that :\

should i take the whole thing off or just pull back a section? where can i get the rivets from? - they dont look like normal ones

You could try to separate it partly but you will get a lot of tension on it when you reconnect. Best way is to take it all off and weld within a frame of some sort to keep the shape and dimensions intact. You don't want tension on the fiberglass.

 

[FJ40V8]

Without the front of the gearbox input shaft being supported in the flywheel pilot bearing, that end will ALWAYS have significant play.

(So that movement is normal for a gearbox that has been separated from its engine/bellhousing and it's not a sign of worn bearings.)

There was mention of the synchros being dicey. That is why a rebuilding was suggested.

 

[Hellebore]

gearbox

Might just baby the gearbox for a while - no drag races

its not too hard to drop out the bottom at a later date and id rather have aircon now for summer

Cam

 

[broth9640]

Rivets

CCOT sells the rivets as well as new gutters, but they are not cheap.That gutter looks repairable, just wire wheel it then spot weld the hole. grind it back to flush . Here is the link...

Headliner

**** i thought i may have to do that :\

should i take the whole thing off or just pull back a section? where can i get the rivets from? - they dont look like normal ones

 

[Hellebore]

Couple of updates and a crappy phone pic

tub is off!!

woo!

now i can get it blasted - just after some prices

is it worth blasting the tub also or can i just rub it back and spray over the existing pain?

found a bit of rust coming through on the back tray where the supports are so i guess ill have to drill out the welds, remove the support and treat it - how do i stop the welds from rusting under the support after i put it back on?

Also the DoT is apparently behind on their modification approvals (3-4 weeks) so could be longer than i thought before i get it okayed this slows me down as im not willing to buy the conversion kit if I am not going to be able to licence it

Cam

 

[Hellebore]

CCOT sells the rivets as well as new gutters, but they are not cheap.That gutter looks repairable, just wire wheel it then spot weld the hole. grind it back to flush . Here is the link...

Headliner

Wow - those rivets look like a pain to put in - definatly looks like the way to go though - thanks

 

[phase]

I'd get the tub blasted if you can afford it as then you will be able to see EVERYTHING that is hiding under the paint and then put a good fresh base of primer down on it. You can get right into the seams and blow out all the old sealer which in my case was trapping moisture in, not keeping it out, and replace it. I am hoping to get my tub blasted in the next few weeks. The last car I painted, I didn't do this and it broke my heart to have rust stains coming back through the fresh paint at the panel seams just 6 months later.

Just make sure you ask the person doing the job what machines they have as I'm sure you've heard that some of the big industrial units will warp the **** out of the flat panels due to the heat they generate. My local bloke has a couple of different units. He does all the door jambs, inside floor and firewall etc. with a grit blaster (garnet I suppose) and then does all the thin panels with a soda blaster.


Cheers.

 

[Hellebore]

chassis rust removal

So im thinking about making a pond up and filling it with molasses and water for rust removal on the chassis - seems like it would remove the rust from in the frame better than blasting and any paint that is left would presumably still be good

What do you guys rekon?
crazy?

 

[phase]

So im thinking about making a pond up and filling it with molasses and water for rust removal on the chassis - seems like it would remove the rust from in the frame better than blasting and any paint that is left would presumably still be good

What do you guys rekon?
crazy?

I've seen some video's of this done on body panels etc. and it seems to work quite well given enough time. You'd need a lot of it to fill a frame sized pond that's for sure!. I'm only thinking out loud but if you have rust blistering under existing paint then the mollasses might not be able to get to it to work on it. You really need something that is going to take the paint off as well. Acid dipping is the only thing that comes to mind but I've heard bad things about that too.

I was surprised at how well the inside of my frame rails came out after blasting. I just used a toilet brush to paint the hard to reach places with POR15 and then I'm planning on spraying some cavity wax around in there which should be good enough for another 30 years. I would like to see this mollasses pond idea put into practice though, sounds a bit crazy but I'm a fan of the backyard approach too.