Aug. 85 FJ60 build "The Cruiser" (1 Viewer)

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AbsolutGT said:
Man! Just got finished reading all your work and it's awesome!!

I just need to get up the courage and start taking things apart and doing it, I've convinced myself that I don't need to pay shop labor if I don't have to for the majority of tasks that FJ60 owners are doing for general maintenance or diagnosing problems

Between yours and nevergiveupyota, as more time presents itself, I'm tinkering! With searching mud for referencing of course ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks!...Yeah, MUD is great...people on here and the whole site have given me the confidence to just dig in and try it. The FJ60 is pretty easy to work on when you think about it. There are difficult things to do, but there is a wealth of knowledge here that is available..everyone wants to help. I just decided to try out more tougher jobs because the cost to have someone do it would be a little out of my budget....so, what the hell, I thought...I'll do it myself. Good Luck to you and thanks for checking out my thread.
 
Looking for some suggestions.... finally got my intake manifold welded up!!... but trying to understand what I need to do inside the exhaust manifold when I bolt them back together... what do I do with the metal inside? I am doing a block off plate, but do I remove the flap?.. grind both down, or just top side?

Also, on my two graphite gaskets.. do I need to copper seal them or leave them naked??
Thanks!

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You can lock the flap in the 'open' position, with the plate, so the exhaust gases get directed down the pipe, or you can cut it. If you remove it completely, the shaft it rotates on will fall out.

I used the high-temp Ultra copper permatex on the gaskets, to perhaps help prevent the gaskets from 'welding' to iron manifold. It has held up fine.
 
I didn't use a block off plate as mine cleaned up really well and being in CT I need the warmth the heat riser provides.
You 'can' trim down the section that rises up beyond the height of in middle of the two manifolds. I'm not saying that well... turn the flap and eyeball the amount that sticks up and cut it off w/ a dremel. That way it can still spin under the plate.
Guess it all depends on temps of where you are in the winter.
 
So, I finally have had some time to get back to things. Luckily, here in Az, I could leave the cruiser out and didn't really need to worry about the weather, other than a few monsoons. I had the engine bay covered while I waited to have the PS gear box rebuilt and the Manifolds resurfaced. I decided to bypass the resurfacing, (I know many of you are probably shaking your heads) because when I had the two manifolds mounted, the difference was so undetectable, that I figured it would be a waste. I did a full de-scaling of build up on both surfaces(the manifolds and the Engine) and they cleaned up really well. I had my Gear box Rebuilt at Benchwork Steering Systems in Scottsdale. (Great place, 2-3 day turn around. ) I enjoyed these guys, and would highly recommend them if you need it. Plus, the rebuild comes with a warranty
too.



Prior to any grinding...realized that I needed to smooth out the surface to mount the Manifolds together...and also that I wanted to install the Manifold Block off Plate...to do this was going to require a trim on the Exhaust Flap so it would clear the block off plate.

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I used this handy dremmel disc for cleaning off the scale on the manifolds. It worked awesome, cleaned without digging in and causing any grooving...just cleaned off the surface scale and rust. super smooth!

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Before cleaning and trimming the Exhaust Flap:
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After cleaning off
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Trimmed and clean!

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So let me think out loud... you trimmed the flap to keep the action intact tho your adding a block off plate.
How much affect would the flap provide to send warmth upward to prevent cold weather hard starts when your literally blocking off the ability for the exhaust heat to warm the cold fuel splashing downward?
Sorry I'm just wondering. Did you decide to just give it a shot because it would be better than locking the riser in place so it can't spin at all?
I do know a few have done this. I wonder if they think it did help warm the fuel at least some?

In addition the plate would also protect the weld from too much heat?
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
So let me think out loud... you trimmed the flap to keep the action intact tho your adding a block off plate.
How much affect would the flap provide to send warmth upward to prevent cold weather hard starts when your literally blocking off the ability for the exhaust heat to warm the cold fuel splashing downward?
Sorry I'm just wondering. Did you decide to just give it a shot because it would be better than locking the riser in place so it can't spin at all?
I do know a few have done this. I wonder if they think it did help warm the fuel at least some?

In addition the plate would also protect the weld from too much heat?
Click to expand...
@NeverGiveUpYota, I love your train of thought, posts and questions...always good.
So, when I planned this, my thoughts were as follows:

1. I live in Arizona... cold starts are not a huge issue.... I may prove myself wrong here, but we will see.

2. The intake cracked once,.. it will crack again due to the materials and design....so, by doing the Block off, it should delay the inevitable... I may be proven wrong here too...

3. Parts to repair or replace the flap are pretty much unavailable unless you purchase another used manifold and strip it, or use that one instead.

4. Locking it in place, IMHO... would not really help or hurt.....so....

My conclusion was to just give it a shot, see what works best.. and, worst case, I pick up a exhaust manifold with a flap and replace this trimmed one, keeping the manifold pair together..(or swapping the trimmed one out for the non trimmed one)..remove the block off and roll the dice on how long the intake lasts before it cracks again.

Long explanation,... maybe I am way off or a crazy jackass... but, I guess I will see either way, right?...hahahaha. Thanks for asking.
 
Smart. Inevitable huh? Crap. Welp then that will be my karma for all my wrong doings. :)
 
Finally got more work done over the past few weeks... thought I would update my page for record and reference...


New bolts and posts for manifold!

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Anti seize and spray copper gasket ... made sure to use this for results and the future.

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Gasket all sprayed up and ready
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Manifolds married up and ready for install... its hot as hell here right now...118*. Will be sweating for sure!

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Update from install... long day, making progress, a few mistakes... adjusting and making it happen.

ERG bolts ready.... ended up leaving these on to help seat the manifold... if I did it over, I might keep these off to install manifold..

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Bolts, gasket and posts mounts ready. Decided to leave exhaust as patina and not coat it... but it's funny that I painted the intake.... probably not a good idea.. but looks cool.... may be a poor decision, we will see.

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Another shot of new bolts... I replaced all springs and clips on horns... forgot to take images... glad I did it because they were shot and sure there was leaking.
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After manifold install, all bolted up and new Carb insulation plate.. looking good.

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ERG mounted up and looking good.
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More images for updates... worked on all of this re install in one weekend..got plenty done and had a few roadblocks that I had to move on to other items until I had info to finish... MUD has been great for a reference to help with problems and get them pinpointed.

Tags:
stock smog
carb to air line
Spaghetti Vac
Vac lines

My new(rebuilt) Carb... isn't she a beauty!!!

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Mounted and ready!

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Some vac hoses connected and set.
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Doing install and had purchased this new VAC... and install notes said it should be blue...??? This may be the updated part, or maybe not.. decided to put old one on until I get her up and running and then decide weather or not to replace.

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Was getting this all wrapped up last week and hit a wall with the vac hoses and carb ports...

Turns out, I had it right all along...sometimes the diagrams become fuzzy or unclear to someone who has never done this before. Next time will go much smoother!


This diagram helped a ton..as this was the last roadblock I had with vac hoses... pairing up the correct ports... do you go by order, the visual order..directional order...
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So, I decided to number them...left to right.
So as below looks...


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And the carb ports are numbered also. The numbers match up with one another... I believe that this is correct... if anyone has a different order please let me know.

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Ah that's the first really good photo I've seen of the 'metal spaghetti' ports. Wow. That stuff is hardcore.
 
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