Builds Atwalz 2013 TLC 200 Build Thread. (7 Viewers)

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All done. Tuning in right knob setting for on road. Looks like #4 is sweet spot.

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3 inch down travel in the front.

4 inch down travel in the rear.

32 inch front height to the fender measured from the bottom of the rim

33 inch rear height to the fender measured from the bottom of the rim

Initial suspension settings is two for all corners.

Front tire track width is 76 inches.

Rear tire track width is less than 74 inches.

Pre-lift fender height for all corners was around 29 inches.

Looks perfect! Nice work!
 
Used die grinder on mounts to clear MT LCA jam nut.

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Remaining garage clearance is less than height of iPhone 6+.
 
I rubber neck evey time i get in a garage. Sunroof open and just watching , waiting
 
Used die grinder on mounts to clear MT LCA jam nut.

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Damn man, hope you don't hit that mount offroad. Those mounts aren't very strong, seen quite a few of them bend off to the side when impacting a rock. That area you cut was the only real spot where the mount is boxed to provide some lateral strength. Can't believe Metal Tech thinks that's acceptable to require you to cut such an important piece off your frame.
 
Damn man, hope you don't hit that mount offroad. Those mounts aren't very strong, seen quite a few of them bend off to the side when impacting a rock. That area you cut was the only real spot where the mount is boxed to provide some lateral strength. Can't believe Metal Tech thinks that's acceptable to require you to cut such an important piece off your frame.

I am gonna design outer skin from a 3/16" plate to strengthen the entire mount.Both Icon and MT arms have same issue with jam nut interference with mount during up travel. You strengthen one part and then figure out next weakest spot and strengthen that. Lot of learning and fixing by trial and error.
 
I am gonna design outer skin from a 3/16" plate to strengthen the entire mount.Both Icon and MT arms have same issue with jam nut interference with mount during up travel. You strengthen one part and then figure out next weakest spot and strengthen that. Lot of learning and fixing by trial and error.
Trail and error, oh I completely agree, and isn't that part of the fun? I think so.

Strengthening a part, that moves the weak spot to somewhere else is enevitable. If I could give just a little opinion. Purposely weakening a part that requires fabrication to put a commercial off the shelf part on kind of defeats the purpose, don't you think?

I doubt you are changing pinion angles, as you are probably not changing the position of your transfer case, so if you were going to fabricate a new mount, I might of been a lot easier to fabricate a control arm without an adjustable joint, then you wouldn't have a jam nut to begin with.

Just maybe a different view of looking at stuff for future projects.

If I may recommend, as a fabricator, instead of trying to plate a weakened mount, make a new one, it will be a lot better in the end. Don't make it out of 3/16", use 1/4" and weld in place of the original mount. That way you also have the strength to take a real hit. Just remember that when you weld, the corrosion protection on the back side of the metal will be gone, so rust will happen. When everything cools, get a spray of enamel paint in inside of the frame rail.

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Here's an example another example, notice the new mount to be welded.
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Factory mounts are weak for rock bouncing. Your recommendation is noted about 1/4" plate mount. This will strengthen and provide protection at same time. That works for me.
 
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For reference here is factory mount side view.
 
In case if anyone is wondering about budget on tundra conversion. Here are my numbers. Now don't show this to my wife. lol.

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Good job on the ebay finds! You were killing it up to the Icon bill.....ouch.

are you running aftermarket bumpstops?
I'm looking for an alternative to Timbren. They seem pretty pricey for a couple pieces of urethane.
 
Good job on the ebay finds! You were killing it up to the Icon bill.....ouch.

are you running aftermarket bumpstops?
I'm looking for an alternative to Timbren. They seem pretty pricey for a couple pieces of urethane.
I'm curious what others are running and what the options are too, looked into the Timbrens and walked away with the same feeling.
 
Good job on the ebay finds! You were killing it up to the Icon bill.....ouch.

are you running aftermarket bumpstops?
I'm looking for an alternative to Timbren. They seem pretty pricey for a couple pieces of urethane.

Icon bill was an eye opener due to upgrades. Added cost included new shock shafts as well.

Re: bump stops. I am still running factory ones as my tire size is 285-70-17. When I go bigger tire I may run bigger bump stops. On my tundra I have 35s. I may swap one day and see how much they rub. But wheel off set on them is +12mm and they stick out. Here an old picture of them on LC without lift.

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Icon bill was an eye opener due to upgrades. Added cost included new shock shafts as well.

Re: bump stops. I am still running factory ones as my tire size is 285-70-17. When I go bigger tire I may run bigger bump stops. On my tundra I have 35s. I may swap one day and see how much they rub. But wheel off set on them is +12mm and they stick out. Here an old picture of them on LC without lift.

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Looks great. The wheels and tires really transformed your rig.
 
I attempted to straighten the front cross member that I bent at moab along with Tundra tow hook. Made some progress. Also sheared off both tow point bolts. My method was wedge the hitch tube into tow hook and pull in 4 low slowly. Now I am gonna drill the broken bolts out.

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