ArticBlasting

[Kabanstva]

Hey guys and gals,

I will be having my 07 100 series done on the upcoming weeks. Rest Blasting outside New Haven,CT does a $1500 deal (Dry Ice blasting & NH oil coating). Gotta have under coating done in these New England winters…. Pretty damn good deal if you ask me. Went to shop and saw him do a 1990 Ferrari Testarossa w/ utter confidence…. It restored all the hoses, frame, and body underneath with absolutely NO damage!!! Pretty impressive. I believe most of us TLC owners should all be considering this to bring back our Trucks.

I’ll post photos of before and after. I’m going to try and get the guy to use NH oil product. It’s supposed to be pretty good. Let me know if anybody has used NH oil product before.

Honestly if this is your daily driver, will be seeing salt belt winters AND get a Fluid Film (or similar) treatment, SKIP the dry ice blasting. Complete waste of money IMO. I have several of our own cars done and we also have undercoated countless cars for customers.

I've seen what undercarriages look like with Fluid Film/Cosmoline treatment after a few winters. Yes they will be rust free for the most part but they look like a greasy mess (which is fine with me). I just don't understand getting dry ice before doing the undercoating.

We have seen a few expensive exotics that have been dry ice blasted, well worth it if it's a show piece or will get very minimal driving. I would not bother on a daily driver especially if you're getting an oily undercoating.

PS, what do you mean the dry ice "restored" rubber hoses? That's not possible. If the hoses are dry rotted or so old that they're about to leak or leaking already, nothing but a replacement will fix the problem. You can't restore old rubber. You can CLEAN them from the outside but that's purely cosmetic.

 

[FIDO96]

Honestly if this is your daily driver, will be seeing salt belt winters AND get a Fluid Film (or similar) treatment, SKIP the dry ice blasting. Complete waste of money IMO. I have several of our own cars done and we also have undercoated countless cars for customers.

I've seen what undercarriages look like with Fluid Film/Cosmoline treatment after a few winters. Yes they will be rust free for the most part but they look like a greasy mess (which is fine with me). I just don't understand getting dry ice before doing the undercoating.

We have seen a few expensive exotics that have been dry ice blasted, well worth it if it's a show piece or will get very minimal driving. I would not bother on a daily driver especially if you're getting an oily undercoating.

PS, what do you mean the dry ice "restored" rubber hoses? That's not possible. If the hoses are dry rotted or so old that they're about to leak or leaking already, nothing but a replacement will fix the problem. You can't restore old rubber. You can CLEAN them from the outside but that's purely cosmetic.

I had my 97 LC blasted then a 10year ceramic coating applied. Absolutely most satisfy dollars spent ($3500). Used DFW Artic Blasting. Highly recommend.

 

[FIDO96]

I had my 97 LC blasted then a 10year ceramic coating applied. Absolutely most satisfy dollars spent ($3500). Used DFW Artic Blasting. Highly recommend.

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[Kabanstva]

I had my 97 LC blasted then a 10year ceramic coating applied. Absolutely most satisfy dollars spent ($3500). Used DFW Artic Blasting. Highly recommend.

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That’s nice. But if you do that and then fluid filmed it and drove it through salt an all kind of other s*** they spray our roads 6+ months out of the year your undercarriage would look like a mess after one winter. You’re in TX…

 

[Kabanstva]

I wonder how that “ceramic” coating would actually last in our winter climate. It’s way too thin. I bet it would be a failure. The coatings we use are probably 10+ times thicker and even they don’t hold up in some areas where you get high road spray. That’s why people touch up their undercarriages every year.

 

[Kabanstva]

I had my 97 LC blasted then a 10year ceramic coating applied. Absolutely most satisfy dollars spent ($3500). Used DFW Artic Blasting. Highly recommend.

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Did they paint a bunch of things black too after they were done cleaning it? Several of the pics definitely show a lot of areas sprayed after. I can post pics of my undercarriage and I have way more zinc hardware etc showing since it’s bare with no coating and zero winter exposure. I’m curious what they used. I do ceramic coatings for a living. I don’t know any product that’s black.

 

[ProvLC]

Honestly if this is your daily driver, will be seeing salt belt winters AND get a Fluid Film (or similar) treatment, SKIP the dry ice blasting. Complete waste of money IMO. I have several of our own cars done and we also have undercoated countless cars for customers.

I've seen what undercarriages look like with Fluid Film/Cosmoline treatment after a few winters. Yes they will be rust free for the most part but they look like a greasy mess (which is fine with me). I just don't understand getting dry ice before doing the undercoating.

We have seen a few expensive exotics that have been dry ice blasted, well worth it if it's a show piece or will get very minimal driving. I would not bother on a daily driver especially if you're getting an oily undercoating.

PS, what do you mean the dry ice "restored" rubber hoses? That's not possible. If the hoses are dry rotted or so old that they're about to leak or leaking already, nothing but a replacement will fix the problem. You can't restore old rubber. You can CLEAN them from the outside but that's purely cosmetic

I honestly believe that if you're going to be doing any sort of undercoating to your truck, that getting it back to baseline and then coating it, is the proper way to do something. Weather you think it's a waste of time or not is semantics. There are 2 ways to skin a cat, and a right and wrong way to do everything. If I wanted to undercoat the bottom of the truck and lock in all the s*** from the winters/usage before, obviously I would just spray it and be on my way. But since I believe in taking care of what I own and care what it looks like, I am certainly going to "waste" a few hundred bucks to knock off all the crap from before.

NO matter what you use these days to undercoat the truck, there are downsides to every product. I have yet to see anyone on this forum agree on anything "that is the best". Most times on this forum people chime in and explain how they know better, what that person did was wrong, knock their efforts for trying to get their prize possession (Land Cruiser) in the best shape possible. I merely was explaining that there is a package deal and service in CT. And though I haven't agreed to the "OILY" undercoating, I asked for opinion on the better type of product to use.... So it is guys like you that bully people from posting or ttrying to be involved with the forum. We all know Dry Ice blasting DOESNT restore rubber. It was merely a conversation piece. So, keep your BS opinions to yourself and if you don't have anything to say about the types of undercoating's and what your expierence is (with dry ice blasting) then dont say anything!! y

 

[Eyedaho]

I honestly believe that if you're going to be doing any sort of undercoating to your truck, that getting it back to baseline and then coating it, is the proper way to do something. Weather you think it's a waste of time or not is semantics. There are 2 ways to skin a cat, and a right and wrong way to do everything. If I wanted to undercoat the bottom of the truck and lock in all the s*** from the winters/usage before, obviously I would just spray it and be on my way. But since I believe in taking care of what I own and care what it looks like, I am certainly going to "waste" a few hundred bucks to knock off all the crap from before.

NO matter what you use these days to undercoat the truck, there are downsides to every product. I have yet to see anyone on this forum agree on anything "that is the best". Most times on this forum people chime in and explain how they know better, what that person did was wrong, knock their efforts for trying to get their prize possession (Land Cruiser) in the best shape possible. I merely was explaining that there is a package deal and service in CT. And though I haven't agreed to the "OILY" undercoating, I asked for opinion on the better type of product to use.... So it is guys like you that bully people from posting or ttrying to be involved with the forum. We all know Dry Ice blasting DOESNT restore rubber. It was merely a conversation piece. So, keep your BS opinions to yourself and if you don't have anything to say about the types of undercoating's and what your expierence is (with dry ice blasting) then dont say anything!! y

You may have had too much coffee this morning. He was taking his time to explain his professional experience to help you make an informed decision, as he has spent years doing on this forum.

 

[Kabanstva]

I honestly believe that if you're going to be doing any sort of undercoating to your truck, that getting it back to baseline and then coating it, is the proper way to do something. Weather you think it's a waste of time or not is semantics. There are 2 ways to skin a cat, and a right and wrong way to do everything. If I wanted to undercoat the bottom of the truck and lock in all the s*** from the winters/usage before, obviously I would just spray it and be on my way. But since I believe in taking care of what I own and care what it looks like, I am certainly going to "waste" a few hundred bucks to knock off all the crap from before.

NO matter what you use these days to undercoat the truck, there are downsides to every product. I have yet to see anyone on this forum agree on anything "that is the best". Most times on this forum people chime in and explain how they know better, what that person did was wrong, knock their efforts for trying to get their prize possession (Land Cruiser) in the best shape possible. I merely was explaining that there is a package deal and service in CT. And though I haven't agreed to the "OILY" undercoating, I asked for opinion on the better type of product to use.... So it is guys like you that bully people from posting or ttrying to be involved with the forum. We all know Dry Ice blasting DOESNT restore rubber. It was merely a conversation piece. So, keep your BS opinions to yourself and if you don't have anything to say about the types of undercoating's and what your expierence is (with dry ice blasting) then dont say anything!! y

Ok big guy!

 

[ProvLC]

I honestly believe that if you're going to be doing any sort of undercoating to your truck, that getting it back to baseline and then coating it, is the proper way to do something. Weather you think it's a waste of time or not is semantics. There are 2 ways to skin a cat, and a right and wrong way to do everything. If I wanted to undercoat the bottom of the truck and lock in all the s*** from the winters/usage before, obviously I would just spray it and be on my way. But since I believe in taking care of what I own and care what it looks like, I am certainly going to "waste" a few hundred bucks to knock off all the crap from before.

NO matter what you use these days to undercoat the truck, there are downsides to every product. I have yet to see anyone on this forum agree on anything "that is the best". Most times on this forum people chime in and explain how they know better, what that person did was wrong, knock their efforts for trying to get their prize possession (Land Cruiser) in the best shape possible. I merely was explaining that there is a package deal and service in CT. And though I haven't agreed to the "OILY" undercoating, I asked for opinion on the better type of product to use.... So it is guys like you that bully people from posting or ttrying to be involved with the forum. We all know Dry Ice blasting DOESNT restore rubber. It was merely a conversation piece. So, keep your BS opinions to yourself and if you don't have anything to say about the types of undercoating's and what your expierence is (with dry ice blasting) then dont say anything!! y

I apologize for the outburst. I do understand your experience. And Im always greatful for knowledge/wisdom that others can share. That was wrong of me to call you out. So, again I apologize for my outburst.

I suppose I'm getting no real good direction on what to do.... so, do I Just Undercoat the mess form before, and call it day? There has to be some benefit to dry ice blasting.... No?

 

[Kabanstva]

I honestly believe that if you're going to be doing any sort of undercoating to your truck, that getting it back to baseline and then coating it, is the proper way to do something. Weather you think it's a waste of time or not is semantics. There are 2 ways to skin a cat, and a right and wrong way to do everything. If I wanted to undercoat the bottom of the truck and lock in all the s*** from the winters/usage before, obviously I would just spray it and be on my way. But since I believe in taking care of what I own and care what it looks like, I am certainly going to "waste" a few hundred bucks to knock off all the crap from before.

NO matter what you use these days to undercoat the truck, there are downsides to every product. I have yet to see anyone on this forum agree on anything "that is the best". Most times on this forum people chime in and explain how they know better, what that person did was wrong, knock their efforts for trying to get their prize possession (Land Cruiser) in the best shape possible. I merely was explaining that there is a package deal and service in CT. And though I haven't agreed to the "OILY" undercoating, I asked for opinion on the better type of product to use.... So it is guys like you that bully people from posting or ttrying to be involved with the forum. We all know Dry Ice blasting DOESNT restore rubber. It was merely a conversation piece. So, keep your BS opinions to yourself and if you don't have anything to say about the types of undercoating's and what your expierence is (with dry ice blasting) then dont say anything!! y

Maybe it’s you who should keep your BS comments to yourself. Don’t come in here claiming dry ice is “restoring” ANYTHING. Because that’s not what it does! Someone reading that without my comment would probably take your statement at face value and be very misinformed.

Now if you actually took even five minutes to read what NH Oil is or any non permanent undercoating such as FF/Woolwax or the more solid Cosmoline based products you would know that dry ice blasting is a complete waste of time. All these products can be applied over generally clean surfaces (in other words just make sure it’s clean and not after a trip to your local mud hole).

The ONLY thing they advise to not spray over is heavy scaly/flaky rust and if you have that you should take the correct measure to remove that before coating whether it’s some type of needle scaling/wire wheeling process or a more involved media blasting service (NOT to be confused with dry ice blasting, that’s not the correct procedure for scaly rust removal and is never marketed as such).

You sound like you have zero experience but wanna get snappy over constructive advice. Sad.

 

[ProvLC]

Maybe it’s you who should keep your BS comments to yourself. Don’t come in here claiming dry ice is “restoring” ANYTHING. Because that’s not what it does! Someone reading that without my comment would probably take your statement at face value and be very misinformed.

Now if you actually took even five minutes to read what NH Oil is or any non permanent undercoating such as FF/Woolwax or the more solid Cosmoline based products you would know that dry ice blasting is a complete waste of time. All these products can be applied over generally clean surfaces (in other words just make sure it’s clean and not after a trip to your local mud hole).

The ONLY thing they advise to not spray over is heavy scaly/flaky rust and if you have that you should take the correct measure to remove that before coating whether it’s some type of needle scaling/wire wheeling process or a more involved media blasting service (NOT to be confused with dry ice blasting, that’s not the correct procedure for scaly rust removal and is never marketed as such).

You sound like you have zero experience but wanna get snappy over constructive advice. Sad.

Raise my hand to being the new guy to the Mud/Resto.... again, apologies again for that.

Knowing the NH Oil/FF/ etc. will always require another coating year over year/ every other year as it is not a permanent fix. Knowing that 100 series are 25-30 yrs old, and there is obvious build up on the undercarriage from many years before. And just for an example; the TLC being considered for the dry Ice blasting has been near the Gulf of America for the last few years, surface rust & oxidation from the humidity/salt air has made the undercarriage seem worse than it is. I figure, it would be advantageous to dry ice blast first, knock that s*** off, and create a base undercoating w the products listed above..... So is Dry Ice blasting a waste of time for the daily driver/weekend warrior?

 

[White Stripe]

I dont think its a waste of time. Its pretty expensive, but if the price doesn't bother you go for it.

 

[Kernal]

The worst undercarriage I've ever seen; frame, bolts, brackets, etc totally destoyed by rust was in a FZJ80 from PA that had the undercarriage (?steam) cleaned off. Best guess that was done either as part of dealer prep or a customer request when it was new to remove all the factory applied thick waxy protective coating that's sprayed on the undercarriage before it leaves Japan. FWIW

While we're on the topic IME the worst rust areas are those that start from inside a panel and work their way out.

One option you can do yourself is spray 3M Cavity wax into every panel and cavity ie: rocker panels, quarter panels, door cavities, hood "frame", hatch, tailgate, wheel well humps including down into the "dogleg" areas working from the cargo area (panels removed) and up from the rocker panel by removing a few rubber or plastic plugs (replace with new plastic plugs), anywhere there is seam sealer applied including behind the weatherstripping especially at the bottom of the doors, etc, etc

Been discussed before, there is a wand kit for the 3M cavity wax (1', 2', 3') with nozzles that are narrow enough to push into some areas just
by removing a screw. Some areas like doors and quarter panels can collect road dirt so IMO better to open those up, wash the area out, ensure
all drain slits are open, wait for it to dry completely, then apply the Cavity Wax.

FWIW

 

[Vaskel]

I used Cryomode in the Seattle area, and I'm happy with the results. Yes, it is expensive.

We barely get snow, so our roads are not salted or chemically de-iced. However, our mountain passes are. I chose to protect my rust-free frame against my 3-5 annual mountain pass trips. These added up over the years on my 100 series resulting in some minor rust.

I likely would not have made this same decision if I lived in a salty road region of the US. Just my 2c.

 

[96bruizer]

Is there a place in the US that does this? If you don't know about it, this is worth a look. I stumbled upon the company and the technology looks intriguing!

Expert Arctic Blasting Detailing | Woonona, NSW

Arctic Blasting is a leading expert in the field of dry ice blasting, detailing, protective coatings, catering to the automotive, marine, industrial, and mining industries.

www.arcticblasting.com.au

I had my entire frame and undercarriage dry ice blasted a couple years ago. it was awesome and my frame looked new when finished. had it done in SLC. I think I paid around $1,500-2000ish. Here is an instagram thread on my rig. Done by Velocity Blasting.

 

[96bruizer]

The nice part about dry ice blasting is the ability to adapt to what the customer is looking for, in a lot of cases we can turn up the pressure on the machine and remove paint, in other cases we turn it down to remove contamination from various surfaces without damaging the underlying surface because dry ice is non abrasive.

Other nice part is sensitive areas won’t be damaged like delicate wiring, rubber substrates, and other items like radiators or oil coolers that can be difficult to clean.

In the attached photos the 80 series had some serious build up from an oil or wax film, the owner wanted the ladder frame cleaned so he could apply por15 to the frame.

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These guys = my rig. Great work and thank you.

 

[fjbj40]

This dry ice blasting is all fine and dandy but it doesn’t do anything if it’s rusty under there, even if it can remove the rust. Cars rust from the inside out. All the pretty pictures in the posts are definitely rigs that live(d) in a southern rust free area. Or were blasted then painted. No ceramic coating is going to hold up to salt and other ice melters that lay in the roads.
Best protection for that is an annual oil type undercoating. The lifetime coatings are pure bs if you live in the rust prone areas.

2-3k to blast is, imop, a waste of my hard earned money. It’s only $150 Canadian a year to undercoat. My 2010 4R after living in the rust belt is probably 99% rust free, external and internally.

 

[Vaskel]

Definitely agree. As mentioned, I would not have taken this path if my rig was already rusty. I wanted to remove all mud/dirt/debris before the preventative coating was applied.

 

[fjbj40]

An appropriate detergent and steam cleaning would accomplish the same task prior to an oil/lanolin undercoating and only cost a few hundred $.

But as stated, if you don’t mind parting with your cash and this rig lives in a dry environment then Giddyup go