Thanks guys and maybe they will have some hooks like this when I get my strap this evening. The maiden offroad voyage for my rig is this Saturday! 
are 80 oem recovery points ok for strap recovery?
- Thread starter semlin
- Start date
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The truck he pictured looks like an 80 chasis so I'm guessing the guy drilled holes to match the hook and got fasteners the necessary length. You can see that he mounted 1 going up and the other going down.
-B-
-B-
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Strangely enough, those hooks do match the spacing on 40's and 60's. FJ62s have the coolest OEM tow hook. I'm going to get some from Dan for my 40 project.
I would have to say after yanking my partners (business) 2005 Dodge diesel out of the mud (buried up to the front diff on a 20ft 20,000 lbs test strap that the the rears are more than up to the job of strap recovery, Buy yank I mean slack strap (touching the ground) Place cruiser In gear and carpet the throttle pedal and pray something does not go snap (the whole strap was draped in all types of material we could get our hand on to minimize potential snap damage should it have occured. But it did not and we got the pig of a Dodge unstuck so recover away
fernandol
SILVER Star
I think it all comes down to having your towing points in good condition, either hooks or loops.
In the gold mines in southern Venezuela I have seen lots of FJ40 hooks compleately straightened out to the point of been useless, on the other hand we once had to pull my fj60 that was stuck in muddi sand up to the bumpers and sinking.
We pulled it out with an fj70 using a huge chain attached to both tow loops, we spend all day to get my truck out and must have yancked that chain more than 200 times at least. At the end we had to remove the loops from the fj70 to return the chain to its owner because it was impossible to loosen the shackle that was used to link the chain to the loops, the loops where in perfect shape.
In the gold mines in southern Venezuela I have seen lots of FJ40 hooks compleately straightened out to the point of been useless, on the other hand we once had to pull my fj60 that was stuck in muddi sand up to the bumpers and sinking.
We pulled it out with an fj70 using a huge chain attached to both tow loops, we spend all day to get my truck out and must have yancked that chain more than 200 times at least. At the end we had to remove the loops from the fj70 to return the chain to its owner because it was impossible to loosen the shackle that was used to link the chain to the loops, the loops where in perfect shape.
Yeah I saw these tonight and was about to buy them for $9.99 when I saw one sitting out. I was really dissapointed in the metal clip that is supposed to close off the hook. You bend it back once and it doesn not spring back at all. They really need to make this part of the hook better. So I went out and looked at my truck and my Recov. pnts. are in perfect condition so they will do for now.
Oh and yes I believe that the guy with the rig in the pic mentioned that he had to do somemodification to get them to work. Check page 1 of this thread.
If the holes in the hook don't line up, I would be seriously concerned about drilling a new hole a fraction of an inch away from the factory holes to fit it. I think you'd end up with a MUCH weaker attaching point by doing that. The only solution would be to do some welding and reinforcing over the unused factory hole and at some point you're really doing a lot of work to end up with something that's merely "different" and not neccessarily stronger (or even as strong). The factory loop, factory fasteners and factory attaching points have been designed as a unit and tested that way.
DougM
DougM
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Those metal clips are useless. Just leave them off---Like Toyota did on the FJ40, 60, 62.
I would not mount them upside down like in the picture.
Yikes, lots of differing opinions here!
Most people I know in Australia consider the factory loops as tie down points only. Many are replaced with aftermarket tow hooks as shown in the pic above. As mentioned, The standard aftermarket tow hooks do not have the correct spacing for the bolts on an 80 series.
I have seen people fit these hooks using a number of different methods including drilling new holes.
There is however a company called Outback Ideas here which sells the hooks to suit. They are distributed at most 4x4 shops throughout Australia.
Most people I know in Australia consider the factory loops as tie down points only. Many are replaced with aftermarket tow hooks as shown in the pic above. As mentioned, The standard aftermarket tow hooks do not have the correct spacing for the bolts on an 80 series.
I have seen people fit these hooks using a number of different methods including drilling new holes.
There is however a company called Outback Ideas here which sells the hooks to suit. They are distributed at most 4x4 shops throughout Australia.
Wouldn't that change the characteristics of the metal though??
Grench
SILVER Star
I have been toying with the idea of getting a pair of these and bolting them through my ARB with backing plates. Is the ARB stout enough to handle it? I haven't figured out yet where on the ARB I could even squeeze them in. Again, just toying with the idea. It would remove the connection point as the point of failure and put it to the ARB & how it tranfers load to the frame.
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=6164&categoryID=219
http://shop.easternmarine.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=6164&categoryID=219
There are several vendors that sell the bolt-on brackets and you can use your own D-shackles. Most prefer the screw in pins over the cotter pin style.
-B-
Grench
SILVER Star
I don't see why you wouldn't be able to use any shackle you wanted with it.
Yes, I've seen the vendor ones. They are very nice, but comparatively low rated though as they are a two piece welded construction. Not that it is a bad thing, just different. This one is one piece all cast and rated to 18,000 lbs working load. True overkill. Maybe too much overkill. The measurements in the engineering diagram shows a 6" wide 5" tall mounting area. Thats a big honkin' plate.
So, how much force can an ARB withstand being pulled through the steel facing?
Yes, I've seen the vendor ones. They are very nice, but comparatively low rated though as they are a two piece welded construction. Not that it is a bad thing, just different. This one is one piece all cast and rated to 18,000 lbs working load. True overkill. Maybe too much overkill. The measurements in the engineering diagram shows a 6" wide 5" tall mounting area. Thats a big honkin' plate.
So, how much force can an ARB withstand being pulled through the steel facing?
Grench
SILVER Star
This came up in another thread...
http://www.fastlane.com.au/Safety/Milford_snatch_danger.htm
I think Milford calls our factory recovery points 'shipping hooks.'
http://www.fastlane.com.au/Safety/Milford_snatch_danger.htm
I think Milford calls our factory recovery points 'shipping hooks.'
This story is wise counsel no matter what else you think, but the 80s recovery loops are not shipping tie downs.
I snagged a set of unused Nissan Armada (lg SUV) recovery hooks last year in hopes they'd fit the Cruiser, but no luck. They're 3" holes vs the 2 3/8" holes on the 80, plus they'd need a spacer. They are huge, cast iron powder coated beasts that must weigh 2 pounds apiece.
DougM
I snagged a set of unused Nissan Armada (lg SUV) recovery hooks last year in hopes they'd fit the Cruiser, but no luck. They're 3" holes vs the 2 3/8" holes on the 80, plus they'd need a spacer. They are huge, cast iron powder coated beasts that must weigh 2 pounds apiece.
DougM
