It is a tight fit with the manifold and both solenoid switches for the lockers, but once it's in, it's very rigid and not going anywhere. Haven't had any issues.
ARB Twin Compressor Install (1 Viewer)
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Mike6158
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Progress!
Even though I'm "finished" with installing the tray I took another look at the instructions this morning.
Step 9 and 10 say to install the legs
Then I remembered putting the legs aside so that I would see them and remember to install them 
Then the post above this showed his install (and how I don't have to move the manifold, just rotate the body) and there's one of the legs in the photo that he posted. This reminds me of some wise words that my dad once said to me. Measure once cut twice... no that's not it. We must endeavor to persevere... no... thats from the Outlaw Josey Wales.
A penny saved is a penny earned... nope... that was Ben Franklin. For the record, I didn't actually know him. Ah! I remember- Boy, you need to get your head out of your... Yup... that's it. Fond memories and something to look forward to finishing... great start for the day...
Mike6158
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Done (in spite of myself). I only had to pull the air box so that was nice. I marked the hole with a sharpie, used an automatic center punch (super handy) to center punch the hole, then drilled an 1/8" pilot hole.
The pilot hole was drilled at a slight angle but thanks to the center punch mark (and some planning) the bit went in where I wanted it to. Looks like I'll have to pull the manifold doesn't it. Nope, I turned the wheel all the way to the right and drilled it from the underside.
Note- don't leave metal shavings (like you can see in the photo ) behind. They'll eventually start rusting and then you'll have a mess. A wet paper towel will (and did) pick them up. Don't brush them with your bare hand. Your hand will pick them up but it'll hurt.
I deburred both sides of the hole and inserted the bolt from the bottom. The last thing I want to happen is the tire hit bolt threads sticking down into the wheel well. That would make a bigger hole (and mess) than I could fix.
The pressure test went well. You can see my solution for keeping trash out of the connection. I need to find a bleeder that can handle 150 psig and that has 1/4 mnpt threads and it'll be complete. I don't think I could get it off if I couldn't blow the tank down first. I almost couldn't get it installed. I'm not sure where I'm going to put it yet but I ordered a 1 gal steel tank. I'll use the extra 1/4" port of the tee under the quick connect to route airline to it. Maybe. I may just make a small section of hose with a quick connect on it and set it on the ground if I need to use air tools. I'm second guessing my purchase at the moment. A piece of 2-1/2" or 3" pipe or square stock (aluminum?) running along the frame rail would make a nice tank, maybe. Idk... that's something for later (or never).
Airbox installed and ready to go. I posted this series in case someone else misses the brackets (not likely). The compressor pumped up fast and I'm glad I decided not to move it. It makes a lot of noise. As far as cooling goes I think I'll just raise the hood when I use it... otherwise, how would I connect a hose 
The pilot hole was drilled at a slight angle but thanks to the center punch mark (and some planning) the bit went in where I wanted it to. Looks like I'll have to pull the manifold doesn't it. Nope, I turned the wheel all the way to the right and drilled it from the underside.
Note- don't leave metal shavings (like you can see in the photo
) behind. They'll eventually start rusting and then you'll have a mess. A wet paper towel will (and did) pick them up. Don't brush them with your bare hand. Your hand will pick them up but it'll hurt.
I deburred both sides of the hole and inserted the bolt from the bottom. The last thing I want to happen is the tire hit bolt threads sticking down into the wheel well. That would make a bigger hole (and mess) than I could fix.
The pressure test went well. You can see my solution for keeping trash out of the connection. I need to find a bleeder that can handle 150 psig and that has 1/4 mnpt threads and it'll be complete. I don't think I could get it off if I couldn't blow the tank down first. I almost couldn't get it installed. I'm not sure where I'm going to put it yet but I ordered a 1 gal steel tank. I'll use the extra 1/4" port of the tee under the quick connect to route airline to it. Maybe. I may just make a small section of hose with a quick connect on it and set it on the ground if I need to use air tools. I'm second guessing my purchase at the moment. A piece of 2-1/2" or 3" pipe or square stock (aluminum?) running along the frame rail would make a nice tank, maybe. Idk... that's something for later (or never).
Airbox installed and ready to go. I posted this series in case someone else misses the brackets (not likely). The compressor pumped up fast and I'm glad I decided not to move it. It makes a lot of noise. As far as cooling goes I think I'll just raise the hood when I use it... otherwise, how would I connect a hose
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Mike6158
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I'm sure glad I remembered your post on this thread. I don't know if or when I'll do air lockers but if I do, the solenoids and switches will be in place.
RET2
SILVER Star
I'm sure glad I remembered your post on this thread. I don't know if or when I'll do air lockers but if I do, the solenoids and switches will be in place.
SoliniodI'm sure glad I remembered your post on this thread. I don't know if or when I'll do air lockers but if I do, the solenoids and switches will be in place.
Locker ports are in good place. You may want to relocate the discharge port as it may be difficult to attach hose. There are a variety of elbows and tee fittings to accomplish this. A good tip is if you don't move it, is to put the air hose on before you turn compressor on, try it. It is very easy to install remote air connections on front and/or rear bumpers by using a product called Synflex. It is a flexible hose used in big rigs and is DOT approved. The fittings are re-useable and are push-pull. SYNFLEX comes in different diameters but since the ports on the compressor is 1/4" no real advantage to going any bigger. Amazon, NAPA and McMater Carr are your friends. BTW air tanks unless large are more trouble that they are worth, ie:condesation, leaks. Just my $.02I'm sure glad I remembered your post on this thread. I don't know if or when I'll do air lockers but if I do, the solenoids and switches will be in place.
Mike6158
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I didn't like the discharge port either but I think it'll be easy to move. I put a schrader valve in the end of a hose fitting and plugged it into the port in case I accidentally turned the compressor on before I had a hose connected. It doesn't take much to vent it off but you're right, removing or connecting a hose to that port while under pressure is just about not doable.
Bummer about the air tank (since I have one) but I can see your point. This would have to be mounted in the vertical with a drain valve on it. That's too tedious. If I want to run an impact (not sure I would even carry one) I could put quick connects on it but like I said, I don't think I would hassle with carrying one unless I did some kind of year long overland trip and that isn't likely. I have no idea where I would put it. I like your Synflex idea better.
Bummer about the air tank (since I have one) but I can see your point. This would have to be mounted in the vertical with a drain valve on it. That's too tedious. If I want to run an impact (not sure I would even carry one) I could put quick connects on it but like I said, I don't think I would hassle with carrying one unless I did some kind of year long overland trip and that isn't likely. I have no idea where I would put it. I like your Synflex idea better.
RET2
SILVER Star
If you turned the compressor on the quick disconnect would self seal no problem. There are several good 18-20V impacts out there, most notably the Milwaukee Fuel. It can give you 750 ft lbs, enough to bust an axle nut loose. A Synflex tip is to carry a couple of unions for a quick fix should you need one.
I case people are still looking for a solution to prevent mud, dirt and other debris from getting in the air port, here is what I used. (Need to find a black one)
Purchased at Home Depot for less than $3 for two. Fits nice and snug.
Purchased at Home Depot for less than $3 for two. Fits nice and snug.
RET2
SILVER Star
Another option is a hydraulic fitting dust cover, they come with a retaining collar/lead. Various diameters are available to fit your quick release size. I went to that solution because I often dropped or misplaced the loose caps.
Hello,
If I am not installing lockers anytime soon and just want the compressor to air up tires, can I trim the power plug to the compressor (purple and black wires) and wire in a smaller single switch that mounts in the engine bay? I wouldn't think that the other wiring connections would be required to make the thing work.
Thanks
If I am not installing lockers anytime soon and just want the compressor to air up tires, can I trim the power plug to the compressor (purple and black wires) and wire in a smaller single switch that mounts in the engine bay? I wouldn't think that the other wiring connections would be required to make the thing work.
Thanks
switch the black wire around on the switch side of the black 3-wire connector (purple will remain in the same spot, IIRC the middle). This will allow you to use the black and purple wire of that connector to energize the compressor. I did this on my tool box install and it works great.
ARB Twin Compressor in a Tool Box
ARB Twin Compressor in a Tool Box
Mike6158
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You can but (a) if you trim wiring it'll be a PITA if you want to change it later (b) the under hood environment is not conducive to switch longevity. The ARB wiring harness is wired so that you have to activate one locker before the other if I remember right. But I think it also has a way to wire it for a no locker scenario. I wired mine, including solenoid, for lockers but don't have lockers.
I'm liking those rubber caps over my shrader valve idea
Nice write ups, guys. Bookmarking this as I have mine to install.
switch the black wire around on the switch side of the black 3-wire connector (purple will remain in the same spot, IIRC the middle). This will allow you to use the black and purple wire of that connector to energize the compressor. I did this on my tool box install and it works great.
Hey all, sorry for reviving an old thread. I'm working on wiring my compressor in on my truck inside the canopy.
Did you still attach the two black wires to the back of the switch like the wiring diagram in the install instructions say? Or did you only attach one black wire and the one purple wire? Post 7 and 8 isolation switch on the diagram show a black wire on both and the red (purple) on post 3.
I'd just like to know if you put the black wire on 7, or 8, or both? Thanks!
Black and Purple (from the compressor) are all that is required for the switch to work. If you want it illuminated, then you will need to wire that up.
I have since moved my compressor into my engine bay, but still use the same switch setup. Soon I will have an in-cab switch, but this is working well for me right now.
I have since moved my compressor into my engine bay, but still use the same switch setup. Soon I will have an in-cab switch, but this is working well for me right now.
I tried doing this last night and it did not work. Do you have any power going to the switch at all? Doesn't seem like the switch is getting power from just the purple and black wires.
In your initial post about doing this, what did you mean by "
switch the black wire around on the switch side of the black 3-wire connector". Didn't quite understand what this entailed.
You need to pull apart the connector and switch the side the purple is on. All the switch is doing is completing the circuit. I know I had to run the black to the ground as well.
Page 3 of this thread at Ultimate Yota has more info. ARB Twin Compressor in a Tool Box
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Page 3 of this thread at Ultimate Yota has more info. ARB Twin Compressor in a Tool Box
If you get a "hosting" page, close it and click the link again.
I see some people saying they run the compressor off their auxiliary battery and have also seen people hooking it up to the starter battery. I plan to run it off the auxiliary. Has anyone had any issues doing that? Using an Odyssey AGM group 75/86.
RET2
SILVER Star
Personally I run all add-on electrical items off the auxiliary battery with circuit breakers, the only exception is the winch which goes to starter battery. Just my $.02.
