ARB Locker Question

[Gappy]

I got my junk all put back together and was testing my new ARB air lockers. With both lockers engaged the compressor will run for about 5 seconds every 30 seconds. Does this mean I have a leak? I had a couple obvious leaks that I could hear then fixed them. Now I do not hear and leaks but the compressors still runs like i said. Do I nead to get my soapy solution and hearing aid out?

 

[spotcruiser]

Sounds like you have a leak. Hopefully, it is not at the locker seal (possible removal required to fix). You should be able to engage them and lose no air after that (your compressor might run for a moment right after engagement, depending on the initial pressure). Can you feel/hear air at the axle vent(s).

Which compressor do you have? It helps to have a tank of some sort, just to reduce the cycling of the compressor.

 

[DSRTRDR]

typically, the compressor runs until desired air pressure is reached - then it goes silent

you can operate the lockers several times - each time when you switch them off, you should hear the pffft

if the compressor runs continuously, I would suspect a leak or a defective solenoid

 

[tonyota]

Hi Larry.


I don't have a cool 40 like yours, but my compressor only came on about every 15 minutes or so when I had the locker engauged. I only had the one ARB , as you know, But the commander has 2 in his 40. What did he say?

 

[DSRTRDR]

alternatively, your pressure switch could be defective

 

[77cruiser77]

Easiest things first here I'd say. Spray your fittings first. You should have done this before even putting your truck in drive after installing such a top notch locker. Do you have an aux tank? If you are running two lockers I suggest you get one. Like mentioned before it will give the compressor a break. Compressors are cheap, but they're not that cheap.

Now if you want these things to last (more than a few rides) then get some axle breathers ASAP. if you run the stock POS one-way stock axle vent then the pressure inside will change with heat as much as 3-4 PSI. You go into a cold creek and things will contract and as ARB was telling me will suck gear oil into the seal housing up your lines and out the solenoid.

Before I get off track here I'd like to say yes, yes I do think you have a leak. Spray it, tighten it, and try again filling with air.

 

[ChaseTruck]

... Do you have an aux tank? If you are running two lockers I suggest you get one. Like mentioned before it will give the compressor a break. Compressors are cheap, but they're not that cheap.

Neat idea. Overkill, IMHO.

...Now if you want these things to last (more than a few rides) then get some axle breathers ASAP. if you run the stock POS one-way stock axle vent then the pressure inside will change with heat as much as 3-4 PSI. You go into a cold creek and things will contract and as ARB was telling me will suck gear oil into the seal housing up your lines and out the solenoid.

If the locker is engaged, it's pressurized against the oil. If the locker's not engaged, it's vented at the solenoid, and pressure will be equalized that way.

That said, extended breather lines with a fuel filter (or somesuch) at the end are a good idea.

 

[Bret]

Neat idea. Overkill, IMHO.



If the locker is engaged, it's pressurized against the oil. If the locker's not engaged, it's vented at the solenoid, and pressure will be equalized that way.

That said, extended breather lines with a fuel filter (or somesuch) at the end are a good idea.

The pressure isn't against the oil, it's against the springs and seals in the locker housing. The inside of the housing sealed to the coupler at the carrier bearings through the bulkhead fitting and to the solenoid which is vented when de-energized. If operating correctly it has no affect on the axle breather, that needs to be run seperate.

I had the most trouble getting the bulkhead area to seal. That would be my first guess, followed by the solenoid.

FWIW you should be able to run both ARB's off of one compressor and have it only cycle once (if that)when you engage the lockers. I have the old style compressor and could cycle the locker off and on several times before the compressor would have to "recharge" the very small tank (that is part of the compressor).

On a sidebar note: Do they still recommend putting LSD additive in the diff?

 

[Gappy]

I lost internet last night........
My model # is 08050060.....it has a tank.
I HAVE NOT drove it yet, haven't even put diff oil back in yet...just in case.
I have already installed extended axle breathers.
I took the air lines back out of thirds, which is where it was leaking, to make sure everything was good and reinstalled. I don't hear any air there now.
I'll check for air coming out the breathers and do the soapy solution and report back.

 

[Gappy]

With the help of soap, my left ear and turning Barry Manilow down, I've isolated "pinhole" leaks between the tank and the solenoids. I removed the solenoids and re wrapped the threads with Teflon tape, reinstalled the solenoids and reduced the leaks by 90%. I can't hear the leaks and they are slow enough that the compressor doesn't kick on but the soap still reveals a couple of very slow leaks. I know it is usable the way it is but I don't like the idea of even a very slow leak. Is the tape my problem? I am confident that I am not over tightening or under tightening. What do you guys use on the threads?
I'm just kidding about Manilow, it was really Streisand.

 

[Bret]

You might try some "PST" from loc-tite. It is a "pipe thread sealer", but the teflon should work. It might be worth it to check the male/female threads for burrs etc. Maybe another layer of tape???

 

[spotcruiser]

Yep, I'd agree with the thread sealer. You can find it at your local auto parts store.