ARB Bumper Warn Winch Install Questions (2 Viewers)

[Will Van]

I just purchased a Warn M12000 winch and ARB front bumper. Do you guys have any tips or suggestions for install?

My plan was to install the winch into the bumper first, then mount the bumper/winch combo onto the truck. Does that sound like a good plan? I was going to use my engine hoist and lifting straps to pick the whole thing up. The steel cable winch is heavy AF.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jfz80]

Its pretty self explanatory but you method is a sound one. The engine hoist how i swap them here. Dry fit to see if you will need to clock the clutch hoising end for acces to clutch lever but i have not had to for the m12 and arb combo.

Do it right and redrill to mount the fairlead up higher in line with wire opening and use the flange on bumper to secure rollers.

 

[Box Rocket]

Way easier to install the winch in the bumper first rather than trying to get the winch into the opening after the bumper is on.

 

[Funner]

You're on the right track, I installed my winch with the bumper already in the truck by myself and it was a pain in the arse. Not sure about the warn, but my winch required spacers between the feet and the back of the bumpers mounting surface.

 

[jfz80]

Good point on the spacers. If required dont stack washers but find some flat stock to spread out the load...... the winch may come with some spacers as well. The keep the ends from bottoming out into the back side of bumper face before bolts snug up.

 

[jonheld]

Remove the cable from the drum to make it lighter.

 

[Will Van]

Do it right and redrill to mount the fairlead up higher in line with wire opening and use the flange on bumper to secure rollers.

I'm not sure what you mean. What should I re-drill? I need to re-drill the ARB bumper to mount the fairlead in line with the winch?

Way easier to install the winch in the bumper first rather than trying to get the winch into the opening after the bumper is on.

That's what I was thinking. Thx!

You're on the right track, I installed my winch with the bumper already in the truck by myself and it was a pain in the arse. Not sure about the warn, but my winch required spacers between the feet and the back of the bumpers mounting surface.

I'm 99% sure the Warn M12000 does not require spacers. I called ARB and asked that question specifically. ARB tech support said that the bumper was designed around the M12000, and it bolts right in, no spacers necessary. Of course, I haven't actually installed it, so I can't say for sure.

Good point on the spacers. If required dont stack washers but find some flat stock to spread out the load...... the winch may come with some spacers as well. The keep the ends from bottoming out into the back side of bumper face before bolts snug up.

I'll double-check tonight and see if the winch came with any spacers, and give it a test-fit.

Remove the cable from the drum to make it lighter.

Great idea!

 

[greentruck]

Here's the adaptor I made that sits on my floorjack.

Basically a platform, then the prop under the fairlead. IiRC, it all needed to balance in this position otherwise it would've fallen off leading to frustration.

 

[jfz80]

I dont recall if i drilled the bumper or the fairleed and dont have an arb to inspect anymore.

The above pic shows the fairleed correctly tucked up into the roller support. With standard holes in each the fairlead will mount low and may allow your cable to scrub the cutout window on lower edge.

 

[greentruck]

SNIP

I'm 99% sure the Warn M12000 does not require spacers. I called ARB and asked that question specifically. ARB tech support said that the bumper was designed around the M12000, and it bolts right in, no spacers necessary. Of course, I haven't actually installed it, so I can't say for sure.



I'll double-check tonight and see if the winch came with any spacers, and give it a test-fit.



Great idea!

Check that again. The ARB was designed around the M10000, before the craze for 12k started. I haven't done a Warn, but everyone else's 12K winch requires spacers. I have heard the Warn 12000 does, also. Just don't crank the feet bolts tights until you're sure the ends of the winch clear the inside of the bumper -- otherwise, you'll break something.

The ARB spacer kit works, but you might need morethan it provides and it's basically a couple of steel plates drilled for the mounting bolt spacing. IIRC, I got in the ball park with some spacer plates, then used washers to make the final adjustment, since they're much thinner than the plates.

 

[jonheld]

The Warn M12K does not require spacers. The "feet" contact the inside face of the bar and spread the forces across the front.
It does require drilling 2 holes for the roller fairlead.
If you're dumping the steel cable and going with synthetic and a hawse fairlead, the lower edge of the cable opening on the ARB needs to be trimmed to avoid a sharp edge contacting the cable.

 

[Will Van]

Check that again. The ARB was designed around the M10000, before the craze for 12k started. I haven't done a Warn, but everyone else's 12K winch requires spacers. I have heard the Warn 12000 does, also. Just don't crank the feet bolts tights until you're sure the ends of the winch clear the inside of the bumper -- otherwise, you'll break something.

The ARB spacer kit works, but you might need more than it provides and it's basically a couple of steel plates drilled for the mounting bolt spacing. IIRC, I got in the ball park with some spacer plates, then used washers to make the final adjustment, since they're much thinner than the plates.

I don't claim to know all of the history on ARB bumpers and Warn winches. The story I have pieced together was that the ARB bumper was originally designed for the M10000, and somewhere along the line they redesigned it for the M12000.

Whether that is true or not, I did specifically call ARB Tech Support and ask if the M12000 (PN: 17801) fit directly into the ARB bumper (PN: 3411050) without spacers. The answer was, "Yes, it was designed for the M12000."

The Warn M12K does not require spacers. The "feet" contact the inside face of the bar and spread the forces across the front.
It does require drilling 2 holes for the roller fairlead.
If you're dumping the steel cable and going with synthetic and a hawse fairlead, the lower edge of the cable opening on the ARB needs to be trimmed to avoid a sharp edge contacting the cable.

I'm still not sure what I'm supposed to drill to mount the roller fairlead. I drill two holes in the ARB bumper to relocate the roller fairlead?

 

[jonheld]

I'm still not sure what I'm supposed to drill to mount the roller fairlead. I drill two holes in the ARB bumper to relocate the roller fairlead?

As soon as you line the roller fairlead up with the roller "ears" on the ARB that support the fairlead, you will see that 2 holes don't line up with the holes in the ARB. Use a center punch and punch the rear of the fairlead through the holes in the ARB. Drill them out to 3/8".

 

[Box Rocket]

As soon as you line the roller fairlead up with the roller "ears" on the ARB that support the fairlead, you will see that 2 holes don't line up with the holes in the ARB. Use a center punch and punch the rear of the fairlead through the holes in the ARB. Drill them out to 3/8".

This is one of the reasons I actually prefer the Non-winch version of the bumper. Cleaner face on the bumper and if you don't mind welding to it, it's easy to add a universal winch mount the top of the frame rail parts of the bumper. This lets you mount the winch with feet down and not have to clock the winch motor/clutch for it to work with the feet forward.

 

[Will Van]

As soon as you line the roller fairlead up with the roller "ears" on the ARB that support the fairlead, you will see that 2 holes don't line up with the holes in the ARB. Use a center punch and punch the rear of the fairlead through the holes in the ARB. Drill them out to 3/8".

Thank you, this is very helpful. Basically, drill the fairlead to match the mounting points on the ARB bumper.

This is one of the reasons I actually prefer the Non-winch version of the bumper. Cleaner face on the bumper and if you don't mind welding to it, it's easy to add a universal winch mount the top of the frame rail parts of the bumper. This lets you mount the winch with feet down and not have to clock the winch motor/clutch for it to work with the feet forward.

I thought mounting a winch with the "feet down" was a big no-no?

Also, do I have to clock the Warn winch to work with the ARB if I'm installing feet forward?

 

[jonheld]

You are overthinking this. The wheels on the winch go round and round.
The "feet" mount forward into the ARB. The fairlead goes in front of the ARB and the bolts go through the fairlead and the ARB into the winch.

The only thing that moves is the solenoid box. That has 2 large hose clamps that allow you to position it on the motor. Be careful not to touch any of the electrical mounting posts with those hose clamps or there will be a spectacular light show.

 

[jonheld]

Also, take the time to wrap the cables that connect to the battery with some sort of protection and be SURE to keep them away from the spool or anywhere that could be a pinch point.

 

[Will Van]

Thanks for the help guys! I’m sure it will make a lot more sense once I start the install.

I’ll keep everyone posted with updates.

 

[Box Rocket]

I am not suggesting you change anything on yours, just that I prefer what I described for my own and wish ARB had made them that way in the first place.

No issues mounting a winch with feet down. Lots of winches/bumpers are designed that way. On your ARB it's not designed to allow for the feet to be mounted down so you need to keep them forward. If you need to clock the winch motor will depend on where the clutch handle is. Ideally you want the clutch handle at the top. If mounting feet forward puts the clutch handle at the front or back, you might need to rotate the motor so the handle is up. If the winch photo you posted is accurate to what you have, it looks like you'll be fine leaving the winch as is. It has feet forward and the clutch handle on top.

 

[Will Van]

I am not suggesting you change anything on yours, just that I prefer what I described for my own and wish ARB had made them that way in the first place.

No issues mounting a winch with feet down. Lots of winches/bumpers are designed that way. On your ARB it's not designed to allow for the feet to be mounted down so you need to keep them forward. If you need to clock the winch motor will depend on where the clutch handle is. Ideally you want the clutch handle at the top. If mounting feet forward puts the clutch handle at the front or back, you might need to rotate the motor so the handle is up. If the winch photo you posted is accurate to what you have, it looks like you'll be fine leaving the winch as is. It has feet forward and the clutch handle on top.

Awesome, thanks!

I actually haven’t unboxed the winch yet, but I assume it’s the same as the advertising photo posted above.