ARB 50 qt fridge on factory rear 12V plug (1 Viewer)

[TXSunDevil]

This was a pretty straight forward install. I used ARB part #10900027. I wanted to use just the socket instead of the surface mount so I could use the factory plug hole.

I started by pulling the tailgate trim piece.

Then I popped out two of the black body hardware pieces holding the rear quarter panel on. One was to the right of the jack the second is pictured above. I then removed two 14mm bolts holding the seat belts in place. Then I removed the trim piece with a Torx set that was holding down the third row seat bracket. Once this was done the entire panel was loose and just needed to be popped out of the remaining panel clips.

I then popped both door sills on the passenger side.

I removed the front side cowl by removing the retainer bolt on top of the foot rest. Once I had this done I used a coat hanger and carefully pierced the boot going into the engine compartment. It comes out below the master cylinder.

I used the coat hanger to pull the wire from the front into the vehicle. I then ran the wire down under the carpet.

 

[TXSunDevil]

Once I had the wire in the proper location I unclipped the factory 12v plug and removed. The plastic tabs were a little tough to depress but I got them out.

Once the 12V socket was out I had to trim a bit with a pocket knife. Once it was trimmed I installed the ARB socket in the hole. I cut and stripped the wires. I crimped then soldered and wired up the + and - terminals. I used the plastic covers they gave me to cover up the bare metal. I wired the terminals to the battery on the other end of the harness.

I then put everything back together and checked voltage.

I think it looks factory and hopefully will work. If not I already have the wiring in place and I can change the socket. Hopefully these photos help if someone is considering the same project. I ended up removing my subwoofer while I was in there. I disconnected it when I installed an amp bypass and new head unit.

 

[BillZ260]

Is that line fused before it goes back through the truck? If not, you should do that, If it is, sorry I didn't see it, looks good!

 

[TXSunDevil]

Is that line fused before it goes back through the truck? If not, you should do that, If it is, sorry I didn't see it, looks good!

There is an inline fuse on the line near battery protecting all wire

 

[PabloCruise]

Hopefully these photos help if someone is considering the same project. I ended up removing my subwoofer while I was in there. I disconnected it when I installed an amp bypass and new head unit.

Those pictures do help! Thank you! I am always leary of pulling off plastic interior pieces - I always seem to break some little plastic clip and then things buzz or vibrate and then I get pissed.

Subwoofer - a whole 'nother can o' worms. I would like to replace the head unit and can't quite sort out if I can keep the factory amp...

 

[TXLX100]

Those pictures do help! Thank you! I am always leary of pulling off plastic interior pieces - I always seem to break some little plastic clip and then things buzz or vibrate and then I get pissed.

Subwoofer - a whole 'nother can o' worms. I would like to replace the head unit and can't quite sort out if I can keep the factory amp...

You can keep the factory amp, however you might get a fuzz noise at low volume. You can bypass the amp or search / figure out how to isolate grounds and that might clean up the noise. Might be easier / cheaper for your time to take it to a stereo shop.

 

[TXLX100]

@TXSunDevil you might want to consider shielding that positive wire and put a cover on the positive side. Many years ago I had an add-on wire like that get nicked and it arced out and caused me a huge headache when it fried a module on my vehicle.

 

[PabloCruise]

You can keep the factory amp, however you might get a fuzz noise at low volume. You can bypass the amp or search / figure out how to isolate grounds and that might clean up the noise. Might be easier / cheaper for your time to take it to a stereo shop.

I was trying to tell from your pics, it looks like the wiring to the factory socket is pretty skimpy?

 

[TXLX100]

I was trying to tell from your pics, it looks like the wiring to the factory socket is pretty skimpy?

Not my pictures, but the wiring to the factory 12v socket is minimal. I wouldn't trust it long term with a fridge attached to it. Not to mention it doesn't have power when truck is off unless you jump power to it in the fuse box... which I personally wouldn't do.

 

[TXSunDevil]

@TXSunDevil you might want to consider shielding that positive wire and put a cover on the positive side. Many years ago I had an add-on wire like that get nicked and it arced out and caused me a huge headache when it fried a module on my vehicle.

I was going to find a loom of sorts and zip tie it to multiple spots. I just finished this AM before work and snapped a photo.

@PabloCruise

Here is a photo of the stock wire size. Looks very small. I would highly recommend a panel tool set. I think mine was $12 on Amazon. It has saved me countless broken panel clips. Take your time and don't pry too hard and you will be fine.

 

[TXLX100]

Trim tools are a must. I've bought several cheap plastic sets from harbor freight and use them all the time.

 

[riffman12]

Casual 3 year old thread bump here but better than making more threads I guess?

What are the general thoughts on running a "power station" in line between the car and the fridge as an alternative to a second car battery?

I'm thinking a fridge like this: Amazon product ASIN B07L3FRDPK
and a power station like this: Amazon product ASIN B07SM5HBK1
My thinking is that the car will charge the power station while running. The power station will run the fridge whether or not the car is on. I'd also be able to take the fridge and power station out if need be and keep it running.

Would this work? The plan would be to plug it all into the 12v outlet in the back of the cruiser. Would I still need the ARB wiring kit?

 

[stevenjj71]

I just purchased a similar dometic solution. It's expensive but has the following pros:
1) can use in all my vehicles (and future vehicles), rather than building in a second battery each time.
2) can use outside my vehicles (take it to the families at Thanksgiving - they never have enough space in the house for refrigeration/freezing to handle a big crowd)
3) it doesn't require special skills (or money) to safely add wiring to my vehicle like a second battery setup

I'm not a fan of sinking money into car specific mods.

 

[4Beast]

I think you're thinking of rational, however you may find that the 12v in the rear is insufficient to charge the power supply quickly, as it has relatively small gauge wire feeding it and is far from the power source. Someone with more electrical expertise than me can probably confirm.
Also, I think Ironman had a sale on the fridge stands (that kind of resemble the luggage stands in hotels) for like $30, which would probably be nice for what you're talking about...

 

[riffman12]

I just purchased a similar dometic solution. It's expensive but has the following pros:
1) can use in all my vehicles (and future vehicles), rather than building in a second battery each time.
2) can use outside my vehicles (take it to the families at Thanksgiving - they never have enough space in the house for refrigeration/freezing to handle a big crowd)
3) it doesn't require special skills (or money) to safely add wiring to my vehicle like a second battery setup

I'm not a fan of sinking money into car specific mods.

Thanks. Definitely seems like it would be easier.

Would you mind sharing what power station you use?

Did you use the factory 12v outlet or did you run new wiring?

 

[stevenjj71]

Thanks. Definitely seems like it would be easier.

Would you mind sharing what power station you use?

Did you use the factory 12v outlet or did you run new wiring?

I don't have it yet..arrives tomorrow. It's the PLB-40, everything I've read says it should be able to charge off the rear 12v outlet without issue (it doesn't draw too much). Will see!

It's not a massive battery that will run the fridge for a week, but seems like if I drive every couple of days it will keep up pretty well. It also supports wall charging and solar input if I find my driving habits are insufficient.

Again - there are cheaper options for sure. But I value ease of use and portability.

 

[riffman12]

I don't have it yet..arrives tomorrow. It's the PLB-40, everything I've read says it should be able to charge off the rear 12v outlet without issue (it doesn't draw too much). Will see!

It's not a massive battery that will run the fridge for a week, but seems like if I drive every couple of days it will keep up pretty well. It also supports wall charging and solar input if I find my driving habits are insufficient.

Again - there are cheaper options for sure. But I value ease of use and portability.

Woah I see what you mean! that thing isn't cheap.

If you're running the car, would the car first fill up the battery pack and then charge the fridge? Or would it run the fridge while charging the battery pack?

 

[stevenjj71]

When driving the car charges the battery pack from the 12v outlet, and at the same time the fridge draws from the battery pack.

Fridge draw is supposedly about an amp - so it should be a net gain.

Fridge came today, still waiting on the battery!

 

[95Fantasma80]

When driving the car charges the battery pack from the 12v outlet, and at the same time the fridge draws from the battery pack.

Fridge draw is supposedly about an amp - so it should be a net gain.

Fridge came today, still waiting on the battery!

what battery did you choose.

 

[TTViper]

When driving the car charges the battery pack from the 12v outlet, and at the same time the fridge draws from the battery pack.

Fridge draw is supposedly about an amp - so it should be a net gain.

Fridge came today, still waiting on the battery!

how has this been working for you? Which battery pack did you end up getting? This seems like an easier and more versatile route