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ARB 50 qt fridge on factory rear 12V plug

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by TXSunDevil, Nov 7, 2017.

  1. TXSunDevil

    TXSunDevil SILVER Star

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    This was a pretty straight forward install. I used ARB part #10900027. I wanted to use just the socket instead of the surface mount so I could use the factory plug hole.
    IMG_3165.JPG I started by pulling the tailgate trim piece.
    IMG_3157.JPG
    Then I popped out two of the black body hardware pieces holding the rear quarter panel on. One was to the right of the jack the second is pictured above. I then removed two 14mm bolts holding the seat belts in place. Then I removed the trim piece with a Torx set that was holding down the third row seat bracket. Once this was done the entire panel was loose and just needed to be popped out of the remaining panel clips.
    IMG_3166.JPG
    I then popped both door sills on the passenger side.
    IMG_3160.JPG

    I removed the front side cowl by removing the retainer bolt on top of the foot rest. Once I had this done I used a coat hanger and carefully pierced the boot going into the engine compartment. It comes out below the master cylinder.
    IMG_3163.JPG I used the coat hanger to pull the wire from the front into the vehicle. I then ran the wire down under the carpet.
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2017
  2. TXSunDevil

    TXSunDevil SILVER Star

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    Once I had the wire in the proper location I unclipped the factory 12v plug and removed. The plastic tabs were a little tough to depress but I got them out.
    IMG_3159.JPG Once the 12V socket was out I had to trim a bit with a pocket knife. Once it was trimmed I installed the ARB socket in the hole. I cut and stripped the wires. I crimped then soldered and wired up the + and - terminals. I used the plastic covers they gave me to cover up the bare metal. I wired the terminals to the battery on the other end of the harness.
    IMG_3174.JPG
    I then put everything back together and checked voltage.
    IMG_3167.JPG
    I think it looks factory and hopefully will work. If not I already have the wiring in place and I can change the socket. Hopefully these photos help if someone is considering the same project. I ended up removing my subwoofer while I was in there. I disconnected it when I installed an amp bypass and new head unit.
     
    TXLX100, vman07 and LandCruiserPhil like this.
  3. BillZ260

    BillZ260

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    Is that line fused before it goes back through the truck? If not, you should do that, If it is, sorry I didn't see it, looks good!
     
  4. TXSunDevil

    TXSunDevil SILVER Star

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    There is an inline fuse on the line near battery protecting all wire
     
  5. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise

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    Those pictures do help! Thank you! I am always leary of pulling off plastic interior pieces - I always seem to break some little plastic clip and then things buzz or vibrate and then I get pissed.

    Subwoofer - a whole 'nother can o' worms. I would like to replace the head unit and can't quite sort out if I can keep the factory amp...
     
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  6. TXLX100

    TXLX100 Supporting Vendor

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    You can keep the factory amp, however you might get a fuzz noise at low volume. You can bypass the amp or search / figure out how to isolate grounds and that might clean up the noise. Might be easier / cheaper for your time to take it to a stereo shop.
     
  7. TXLX100

    TXLX100 Supporting Vendor

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    @TXSunDevil you might want to consider shielding that positive wire and put a cover on the positive side. Many years ago I had an add-on wire like that get nicked and it arced out and caused me a huge headache when it fried a module on my vehicle.
     
  8. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise

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    I was trying to tell from your pics, it looks like the wiring to the factory socket is pretty skimpy?
     
  9. TXLX100

    TXLX100 Supporting Vendor

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    Not my pictures, but the wiring to the factory 12v socket is minimal. I wouldn't trust it long term with a fridge attached to it. Not to mention it doesn't have power when truck is off unless you jump power to it in the fuse box... which I personally wouldn't do.
     
  10. TXSunDevil

    TXSunDevil SILVER Star

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    I was going to find a loom of sorts and zip tie it to multiple spots. I just finished this AM before work and snapped a photo.

    @PabloCruise

    Here is a photo of the stock wire size. Looks very small. I would highly recommend a panel tool set. I think mine was $12 on Amazon. It has saved me countless broken panel clips. Take your time and don't pry too hard and you will be fine.
    IMG_3176.JPG
     
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  11. TXLX100

    TXLX100 Supporting Vendor

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    Trim tools are a must. I've bought several cheap plastic sets from harbor freight and use them all the time.
     
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