I have been looking at the 50qt ARB fridge. Has anyone successfully run this off of the rear factory plug? The plug claims it is rated for 120W which is more than the fridge draws. I will need to do the constant hot modification. I will be driving the vehicle for at least an hour everyday. I do not want to mess with adding a second battery. Will I be able to access the inside of the fridge without buying a slide if it is sitting on some sort of drawer system? Thanks
ARB 50 qt fridge on factory rear 12V plug (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TXSunDevil
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I'm wanting to do the same, my fridge is a Dometic 27 quart so small compared to yours. I've run it off that rear outlet, with no issues, but have not let it run overnight yet, keep meaning to try the constant hot mod and see how it works in the driveway overnight but haven't got around to testing it. Probably not much help to you.
I tried to run my Dometic 50 qt off the rear plug, the fridge would not run off the stock rear plug. I installed an always-hot plug in the rear ash tray with 8 gauge wiring. The fridge runs great now with vehicle on or off and plugged in overnight ...
- Thread starter
- #4
The Dometic CFX-50US shows to pull 7 amps where the ARB shows 2.3 amps. This can't be right. I have sent ARB an email asking what the amp draw on the compressor is and if the 120 Watt plug will be enough.
Have you seen the wiring for the rear plug , I want to call it 18 gauge, it's pretty thin....
- Thread starter
- #6
No I have not pulled it. I just opened the cover and it said 120W. If it pulls 5 amps that is 60W. I could see how 18awg would cause a voltage drop and that could be a problem.
It won't work, run a dedicated circuit to the fridge. Been there tried that...
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- #9
ARB just emailed me back. That was quick. They recommended the battery also claiming it could have intermittent shut downs if ran off the factory plug. They have a plug they sell. I guess I will need to find time to run a wire back there.
risky business running a fridge off the one cranking battery, i wouldn't risk leaving it running 24/7 - asking for a jump start. Also the factory plug will run your fridge, but not as effectively as running a thicker gauge wire and socket (less voltage drop).
Accessing the fridge on top of a drawer system may restrict the lid opening, also makes it difficult accessing from the rear without a slide. Having a fridge inside the cruiser is my favorite accessory, cold beer just waiting to be drunk.
Accessing the fridge on top of a drawer system may restrict the lid opening, also makes it difficult accessing from the rear without a slide. Having a fridge inside the cruiser is my favorite accessory, cold beer just waiting to be drunk.
oh man how did we get by without a fridge, easily one of the best things we ever did. Cold beer and wine for mommy and daddy and cold blueberries for the little overlander....
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- #12
Saddletramp
GOLD Star
Install a single group,31 battery and buy a jump pack. Many of us in AZ are running this set up in our over the top hot summers, no one I know has had to use the XP 10 jump pack yet but it offers a convenient alternative to the dual battery solution. I run a separate dedicated hot wire from the battery to the rear and added two grounding points. ARB offers a very good wiring solution at a reasonable price.
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- Thread starter
- #14
I was planning on a jump pack. I sometimes camp a long way from anything so I think it is cheap insurance. That one looks pretty pricey. I was considering a Yellow top Optima when this one is shot.
I have an ARB 50qt. I tried the rear outlet and it's a no go. A couple times the compressor kicked in, but most of the time would not. When the compressor starts up, it draws enough current that the thin gauge factory wire drops enough voltage that the fridge itself reads the voltage and decides battery is too low and shuts off. That's the problem. It's not that the existing wires can't carry the current, or that the steady state current draw of the ARB is too much. It's that the fridge detects a low battery voltage during compressor start up and then shuts down. Thin gauge wire means higher resistance which = voltage drop. 10awg wire worked perfectly fine. 12awg should be fine too, I just had the 10awg handy. Remember to fuse it near the battery. Ground/return can be connected to chassis near the fridge.
I run my fridge 24/7. With a new AGM battery, I got about 4 days on battery without running the truck before I needed to jump start (Microgravity is pretty great). Now I get maybe 2 days, but I'm pretty sure it's because the charging system isn't set up for AGM chemistry and won't charge to 100%.
I run my fridge 24/7. With a new AGM battery, I got about 4 days on battery without running the truck before I needed to jump start (Microgravity is pretty great). Now I get maybe 2 days, but I'm pretty sure it's because the charging system isn't set up for AGM chemistry and won't charge to 100%.
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
120W is for ALL receptacles on the circuit. For instance, there are two in the dash, one in the console, and a pair at the back of the console. I'm not sure but I think the receptacle at the back is part of that circuit. That's a total of 6 sockets on a 120W circuit. 120W / 13.8 = 8.7A. 8.7A / 6 receptacles = 1.45A each. So... if you use the rear plug don't count on using any of the other ones. That's one of the reason why people run a dedicated circuit. When I run mine it'll have a power monitor that kills the power in the event that the battery voltage drops below setpoint
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
The power jack circuit is wired with 16g.
Wire ampacity by gauge and length
Wire ampacity by gauge and length
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
ARB wiring kit the best/easiest way to go?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
The power jack circuit is wired with 16g.
Wire ampacity by gauge and length
Looks like 16 guage doesn't get you very far...
That kit is way too expensive in my opinion.
If you can cut and splice/crimp a couple wires, just get an inline fuse holder like this https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-Resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A
and about 20 feet of 10awg wire and run a dedicated circuit from battery and connect it up to the rear outlet. Effectively replacing the existing source for that outlet. A few inches of the existing wire there won't be a problem. To crimp, just strip a little extra off and fold it back on itself and use a 10awg butt splice. Put the fuse near the battery and you'll be good. You'll need a ring terminal to connect the 10awg wire to a battery terminal, so pick the right size for that. If you want to add a new power outlet instead of using the existing, there are a ton of options out there.
