Anyone recognize this 80 (5 Viewers)

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I would check the belt for proper routing. To me it looks like the belt was wrapped around the idler rather than belt just running next to the idler.
 
Godwin said:
I reset the distributor, it was one tooth advanced, and checked and adjusted the timing and the 1FZ was not running well, bogging down at higher rpm and idling poorly.

I decided to swap out the alternator since it was not charging. I had a spare and a new set of brushes. Installed the new brush set in the Denso alternator and began pulling the old one. One thing I noticed was rubber on the idler pulley. What's up with that??? Removed the old alternator and discovered it was seized. That would also explain the burning odor noticed on the few short runs of the 1FZ. After pulling the old alternator I compared them side by side and the old has an undersized pulley.

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I'll have this back in this afternoon if the rain stays away and I'll rechecked idle and timing.
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Someone swapped that alternator pulley to try to increase the output of the alternator (particularly at low speed) to make it turn faster.

There was someone here that used to sell those pulleys as a modification.

Someone may want to buy that pulley.
 
BILT4ME said:
Someone swapped that alternator pulley to try to increase the output of the alternator (particularly at low speed) to make it turn faster.

There was someone here that used to sell those pulleys as a modification.

Someone may want to buy that pulley.
Click to expand...

Yeah, on the smaller pulley. This fits with mass of electrical mods I've eviscerated from this 80. ARB compressor, dual battery setup, 12v inverter, uncounted USB ports, remnants of a sound system.

I'll remove the pulley and post in classifieds. I think if you have a stubby impact you could swap out pulleys without removing the alternator.
 
Godwin said:
Yeah, on the smaller pulley. This fits with mass of electrical mods I've eviscerated from this 80. ARB compressor, dual battery setup, 12v inverter, uncounted USB ports, remnants of a sound system.

I'll remove the pulley and post in classifieds. I think if you have a stubby impact you could swap out pulleys without removing the alternator.
Click to expand...
With all that stuff, now I can see why they did it.
 
High idle issue resolved but not until swapping out throttle bodies several times. The root cause was an over adjusted throttle, I thought. Swapped out the other throttle body after having checked, and re-re-checked that the TPS and ISC were properly adjusted and functional. Installed the TB and the high idle remained. ?????? Swapped the other TB in, again with multiple sensor checks and careful TPS adjustment. This time I left the cables loose. Cranked up with proper idle. I then completed the hookup of the throttle cable. All good. Then the transmission kick down cable but excess tension on the cable would not allow full closure of the TB plate, nor could I gain enough slack in the cable to hook it completely up without that tension. For now I'm leaving it loose.

Codes are for both knock sensors. I'll deal with those this week.

IMG_3777.jpg


IMG_3776.jpg
 
Godwin said:
High idle issue resolved but not until swapping out throttle bodies several times. The root cause was an over adjusted throttle, I thought. Swapped out the other throttle body after having checked, and re-re-checked that the TPS and ISC were properly adjusted and functional. Installed the TB and the high idle remained. ?????? Swapped the other TB in, again with multiple sensor checks and careful TPS adjustment. This time I left the cables loose. Cranked up with proper idle. I then completed the hookup of the throttle cable. All good. Then the transmission kick down cable but excess tension on the cable would not allow full closure of the TB plate, nor could I gain enough slack in the cable to hook it completely up without that tension. For now I'm leaving it loose.

Codes are for both knock sensors. I'll deal with those this week.

View attachment 3933907

View attachment 3933906
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Doing a search and saw a photo of the cables. I may have the kick down cable routed wrong.
 
Godwin said:
As the title states, does anyone recognize this 80 and have any history on it? 1997 Lexus 450 with TJM front bumper, Superwinch X9, IPF lights, Slee (?) rear bumper, Wagongear tailgate storage, pipe rail under rocker panels, dual batteries, ARB compressor in rear, metric butt load of USB ports, Iron Man lift.

It has some quarter panel and front inner fender rust but nothing significant otherwise.

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It looks like the sticker is out of date 24 and should have been renewed this year . It’s 6 months past due or more . If you go to the police department give them the plate number and they might give you there name and address if that’s what your looking for .
 
stevenmichael said:
It looks like the sticker is out of date 24 and should have been renewed this year . It’s 6 months past due or more . If you go to the police department give them the plate number and they might give you there name and address if that’s what your looking for .
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I've learned a bit more about. That tag has been replaced but I'm hanging on to the old one in case I want to use this Cruiser for illegal activity. I'll swap plates then if spotted the PO will catch the heat.
 
Dealing with knock sensors. The rear knock sensor was sporadically throwing a code, which then became consistent. After installing the intake manifold and going through throttle body purgatory the front sensor began throwing a code. I bought a pair of Intermotor knock senors from Rock Auto and installed today. The old ones have no identification marks or codes on them, must be really cheap ones (the ones in the photo). Front sensor code may or may not be due to bad sensor, it's definitely due to a broken wire. That'll be fun to fix.

IMG_3815.jpg
 
Godwin said:
Dealing with knock sensors. The rear knock sensor was sporadically throwing a code, which then became consistent. After installing the intake manifold and going through throttle body purgatory the front sensor began throwing a code. I bought a pair of Intermotor knock senors from Rock Auto and installed today. The old ones have no identification marks or codes on them, must be really cheap ones (the ones in the photo). Front sensor code may or may not be due to bad sensor, it's definitely due to a broken wire. That'll be fun to fix.

View attachment 3937899
Click to expand...

Replacement connectors with pigtails are available from Ballenger Motorsports for a few bucks. Probably less than $10ea
 
Godwin said:
Dealing with knock sensors. The rear knock sensor was sporadically throwing a code, which then became consistent. After installing the intake manifold and going through throttle body purgatory the front sensor began throwing a code. I bought a pair of Intermotor knock senors from Rock Auto and installed today. The old ones have no identification marks or codes on them, must be really cheap ones (the ones in the photo). Front sensor code may or may not be due to bad sensor, it's definitely due to a broken wire. That'll be fun to fix.

View attachment 3937899
Click to expand...
That is a real bummer to read. I’m working in that area on a parts truck right now. Absolute pain in the rear.
 
 
 
Pics.

Front and rear knock sensor connectors.

IMG_6414.jpeg

IMG_6412.jpeg


The link that you posted looks like the correct connector to me.
 
Godwin said:
I'll order a couple of plugs with pigtails from Ballenger.
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Snapped pics of these two as well, just in case.

IMG_6413.jpeg


I haven’t been able to pull the sensor that is located on the DS front end of the engine yet.,, too covered in oil. Tomorrow. If you need pics of that connectors, just let me know.

Here’s to a peaceful Sunday.
 
Test drives around the farm for now because of the broken knock sensor wire. Under load it becomes a real dog, timing drops to -5 and sluggish is an understatement. Temps are running good at 190 and below. No vacuum leaks and idle is around 650. It does have an exhaust leak and the header-pipe interface but it's minor.

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